inspectorman

This thread is mostly about blocked sunroof drains but it does contain instructions on how to remove the plenum chamber covers and have a look inside - this is the usual location for water which should have drained away but hasn't.

Coding the battery will only affect how the battery gets charged - it will not have any effect on what seems to be transient interruptions in supply. I ,too, would have checked / replaced any light supply relays (cheap and easy to do) but now I would be following Annoying Pentium's suggestion of tracking down earthing points (plenty on a modern car) or earth straps. The bulb connections could be quickly checked, and the relevant fuses taken out, inspected or replaced, and firmly reseated. Save your money - a year old battery is unlikely to be the issue here. Start with the main earth strap from the battery to the body and then look at any earth points near the headlights.

How confident are you your recirculation command is working properly? Increased speed on the motorway will chill the windscreen more and then the inside moisture will condense. Scan to find faults or listen to the flap working (or not). Auto setting works pretty well and controls both output directions and fan speeds. And are your carpets wet at all anywhere - could this be the source of the moisture. Easy to miss a slow wet patch somewhere (including the boot).

Is it this unit? and if so, have you lost the little clip here? The bad news is, if it's been coming loose, and has now gone to the floor, it's probably not worth refitting it in the light unit. You might be able to relocate it. Can't see that clip being listed as a spare.

At launch they proposed it was fitted for life. In the sense that if it breaks, your engine is dead, so they were right..kind of. Now the recommendation is 5 years/ 140K miles. It's not a huge job - the water pump is on the other side of the engine and not part of this task. VAG (UK) have a different view to VAG in other parts of the world on this. I confess I would be tempted to inspect before bothering to change - particularly if I felt the car had not been ragged or abused. Part of your answer is in how long you intend to run the car - if 4/5 years then I'd be tempted to get it done anyway so that you got the benefit. A nine year old / 100K car with its original belt might be hard to move on.

Get it bought. Even after being babied every month it's not that happy. You've probably had an extra year out of it already. I'd use Tayna for a Bosch/Varta/Yuasa at 110 sovs unless you can get the Halfords significantly cheaper. Batteries tend not to die on long trips (they like being charged) but not fretting is worth something too.

Correct for 16 inch wheels. 2.7 / 3.3 fully loaded. This from a 1.5 TSI 150 Mk4 hatchback. 2.7 / 2.8 ; 2.7 / 3.4 laden for 17 inch wheels.

In reply to TheWanderer's question; I used the Australian site to identify five (5!) software upgrades. Contacted my local dealer, who agreed they needed to be done. And so they were. Anyone attempting to use Skoda UK's useless checker, or not having an issue, would have been none the wiser. Front desks response to my question about why the Skoda UK checker was so useless; "The UK recall checker does work but these are not classed as "safety recalls" so wouldn't be showing on that site." So we are doomed to drive unimproved / unfixed cars until Skoda UK deigns to tell us.

I had this excitement today. But it cleared after 15 minutes. I have also briefly had the (if you've set 70 you must want 44 - 70kmh being 44 mph) excitement a month ago. In both instances the car had done a software update in the previous days. For now, it's almost as if it took 20 min of driving to reregister it's in the UK. Those who have this as a permanent fault, however, would say it's a rubbish theory.

If he's done the pads and discs it's not going to be a stone trapped by the pads. Have a look at the big metal shields behind the brake - circular in size and about the same diameter or bigger than the disc. They're cheaply made and the mounting points give up, leading to them flopping about. Sometimes called a dust cover or brake shield.

It'd be strange to have headlights and radio on the same circuit. Left and right are also normally separately fused. Scanning the car will help if you have anyone with the gear nearby. My guess would be the switch on the end of the ignition barrel.

After months of the UK checker being "temporarily unavailable" I tried the Aus checker to get - 5 outstanding upgrades / campaigns. 48P9 69BN 90Q9 97C1 97EQ Confusingly, I had 97EQ applied last December. So asked my dealer to check. Apparently, 97EQ had a fourth part, also named 97EQ, released in January. Not at all destined to muddy the waters. So I need to have all five done. And " The UK recall checker does work but these are not classed as "safety recalls" so wouldn't be showing on that site." Which is not consistent with the "unavailable" message, or the info being available on the Aus site. So how many owners never know about these recall campaigns? My understanding of recalls is that the manufacturer should initiate contact. Clearly not. This is not a complaint - infotainment issues for me have been transitory and rare.

A 10 year old tyre is not perfectly good; it's close to the end of its life, even if it's never turned a wheel. 195/65 R15 will be 2.8% faster rolling than a 205/60 R16, and skinnier in width - 7.68 in rather than 8.07 in. ET (offset) needs investigating, too. Inflation kits are certainly mostly useless. I'd flog the wheel to someone less fussy and get a new spare.

Power to the ports usually needs the engine on. But how the system shuts down is certainly complex and radios (for example) remain powered until the car is exited and locked. A lead with an indicator (like this) will tell you whether it's powered or not. Or use an inline ammeter/voltmeter

Did they take the belt off to assess the true condition of the rollers / pumps? Hard to spot anything except gross errors if the belt is still on - wear may be hidden by the tension of the belt. I'd get them to do that and put a new belt on at the same time - seems like an odd harmonic from the belt / rollers to me.

My mistake - I am confusing the "boot net programme" with the "partition net". The mount points are probably hidden under your roof lining - be bold and hack holes in it to find them!

The net programme for the saloon uses the rear seat latch loop on the C pillar for the upper location of the partition and side nets.

Rapid spaceback; 28K miles; same issue and replaced with anything but the OEM discs/pads.

Holy thread resurrection! Well, she has a 2018 Spaceback now; rear discs weren't wonderful before the MoT in March but passed fine; three months later the outer surface began to delaminate. Along with amusing pinging noises as bits of disc flew off onto the wheel / bodywork. 28K miles. Desperate OE quality discs - Mintex now fitted again. Fronts are OK. And this weekend I get to help a friend with a Fabia with exactly the same wear issue. Fortunately it's a pretty easy job.

I seem to recall this might be a legacy zip issue if either you are on a FAT32 file system, or an older version of Windows. There used to be a 4GB limit. If the three copies of the mapping zip file you have downloaded are identical you probably have a successful map download. Try downloading and using Peazip ( https://peazip.github.io/ ).

Whereabouts are you? I bet someone local on this forum would give you a hand if you asked nicely. Updating the nav database is pretty straightforward.

Lane assist can be quickly turned off, but on every drive. Somebody smarter than me will be along along eventually to show us how we can turn it off and the car remembers the setting. Not much use on bendy narrow UK roads with inconsistent markings. 1. If you're super sensitive, you can detect a little stumble 1/10 times on a cold pull away, once in the first 100 yards. If you grew up juggling manual chokes, this is pretty good. 2. Nothing guaranteed, but if there is a tendency in all the reporting, the early cars off the line seem to have had more problems than later ones. Plenty of owners out there not complaining on forums so the odds are pretty good. SEL good for the following bits; heated front seats, adaptive cruise control, heated adjustable folding mirrors, front and back parking sensors, Columbus 10" display. Chrome window surrounds not so much. But only you know what you like. Offered specs may have changed. 3. No idea.

For a 1.5 TSI manual - not a hybrid - I've a consumption figure over 6000km of 5.6 l / 100km. Measured brim to brim on 98 RON petrol. My usage pattern looks similar to yours, except here 87mph / 140 km/hr will get you into trouble. All the UK cars have a virtual cockpit -navigation in front of you is handy at times. Out of the rest of your list the only essential I can see is the parking sensors - you can't really see the edges of the car. Columbus is a good idea. Apart from that the best feature which may not be available on lower specification models is the adaptive cruise control - big advance over the normal / basic cruise control.

The stalk shown is also the stalk for cruise control, (but not ACC). UK handbook extract;