inspectorman

8 tabs and a bit of wiggling. No screws. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499015-centre-air-vent-trim/

Take it out and look for a part number on it. You'll have to do it anyway if/when you get the new part.

Find another dealer. And.... VAG OE discs and pads aren't much cop, either.

Common to a whole range of VAG cars and I think unchanged from Octavia 3 to 4. 5K6955435. Worth checking with your local parts department.

Not as cheap as an Ebay special but better fitting; https://tinyurl.com/2tnuzudn

If you have the handbook, there may be a sticker in it with a list of codes. You are looking for the two codes relating to the brakes; I think you will see 1LG for the front (340 mm) and 1KW for the rear (310 mm). The sticker also used to be in the boot somewhere but your car may be too new. Someone with a VRS will be along soon to confirm or deny my guess.

No help in that label. My codes only say locking wheel set without specifying which key. PRCode: 1AS = Electronic stabilization program (ESP) PRCode: 1D0 = Without trailer hitch PRCode: 1KD = Disc brakes rear PRCode: 1N3 = Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic) PRCode: 3QC = 3-point seat belts front PRCode: 4UP = Driver's and front passenger air bag with knee air bag and front passenger air bag deactivation PRCode: 4X3 = Side air bag front with curtain air bag PRCode: 6FF = Body-colored exterior mirror housings and various add-on parts PRCode: 7MM = Emission standard EU6 plus PRCode: 7UF = Navigation system - Standard PRCode: 8GG = Alternator 110 A PRCode: E0A = No special edition PRCode: G01 = Front shock absorption PRCode: H9S = Tires 275/80 R22.5 driving PRCode: I8F = Radio High (Europe) PRCode: J0T = Battery 360A (69Ah) PRCode: L02 = Suspension range 02 installation control only no requirement forecast PRCode: QI6 = Without service indicator

If you can loosen off the thin insulating jacket around the sides at all, you may be able to see anything written on the sides. Maybe even loosen the main clamp and move the battery a little without disconnecting all the gubbins on top. Tayna seem to think you have a 027EFB (but you can fit an AGM if you wish ). It's not impossible (but unlikely) there's some battery info in the three letter codes printed in the handbook.

I used these LED boot lights - not cheap but better than gambling with Ebay https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/octavia-iv/octavia-iv-mega-power-led-cargo-trunk-light-ki-r#description

Great stuff! Thanks for posting the answer.

Spend a fiver and shame the garage. These are a piece of cake to use. Look for brake pad measuring tool.

I suspect - since you see no damage on the handle - the fixing bolt has disappeared. Item 24. 23 is the handle. Part number for the bolt is N90651302 Looks like maybe only one of the two trim panels needs to come off to see if the fixing (part 29) is still there for the bolt to attach to.

You are not seeing steam. You are seeing water vapour - mostly because the atmosphere is already at 100% humidity. I guarantee your bonnet is not super hot - just warm enough to persuade some of the water on it to vapourise. Try a remote temperature sensor to see how warm it is.

Invite the dealer who carried out the service to cover this. If they decline, reamain calm and remind them that the small claims court procedure is pretty quick and cheap. No way should you be shelling out for this; the sump plug hasn't been touched since the service. More amusement follows if they try to say they didn't touch the sump plug when carrying out the service.

Your 350km drive is unlikely to have done this - probably failing for some time. A good exhaust specialist will find and fit the correct flexi repair section. Tempting to get creative with fencing / baling wire but unlikely to pass inspections or last. Worth also checking your engine mounts for excessive slackness allowing excessive movement.

Do you mean the hydraulic line or the handbrake cable? ISTR the visible hose/cable underneath is the handbrake cable. If so you might need one of these; https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/rapid/spare-parts/brake-system/handbrake-cables-246.html

Must.. read... question..... properly....... aargh....

Ballast resistor for the fan is the favourite. Failure is usually max speed only but you might just be seeing an almost dead resistor. Then, if that doesn't fix the issue, consider changing the stalk itself.

You're heading in the right direction. I'd get into the back brakes and make sure the caliper pins were clean and properly greased. Only the very cheap stuff is problematic from new.

Does this help? Last post on Page 5.

Afraid so. The accountants overruled the engineers - who knew fine when they designed it the internals would corrode and then leak after 5/6 years.

The dust shield behind the brakes can corrode off its mounting bolts and then contact the disc. Lots of noise but not serious. More likely to be a stone if your car is less than 7/8 years old.

Yes. Apart from pressing in the sides of the box to disengage the tags, you need to disengage the damping arm - here called the compartment brake element. It's about the size of a pen and is only fitted to one side. For your left hand drive Octavia I suspect it is on the left side.

In the UK we don't have such a generous warranty. And here, as Rooted pointed out, long life servicing can mean up to about 19,000 miles / 24 months (whichever comes first). 30K km! That gives the idle owner plenty of time to run the levels lower than optimal.....

Your engine, your driving routine, your choice. For about £30 and ten minutes with a Pela oil pump I bother to change at the half way point. Was the change to long life servicing brought about by improvements in oil/materials technology or by a desire to reduce costs to the big leasing fleets? Those who repair these engines on a daily basis will have a view (Crasher?).