inspectorman

No help in that label. My codes only say locking wheel set without specifying which key. PRCode: 1AS = Electronic stabilization program (ESP) PRCode: 1D0 = Without trailer hitch PRCode: 1KD = Disc brakes rear PRCode: 1N3 = Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic) PRCode: 3QC = 3-point seat belts front PRCode: 4UP = Driver's and front passenger air bag with knee air bag and front passenger air bag deactivation PRCode: 4X3 = Side air bag front with curtain air bag PRCode: 6FF = Body-colored exterior mirror housings and various add-on parts PRCode: 7MM = Emission standard EU6 plus PRCode: 7UF = Navigation system - Standard PRCode: 8GG = Alternator 110 A PRCode: E0A = No special edition PRCode: G01 = Front shock absorption PRCode: H9S = Tires 275/80 R22.5 driving PRCode: I8F = Radio High (Europe) PRCode: J0T = Battery 360A (69Ah) PRCode: L02 = Suspension range 02 installation control only no requirement forecast PRCode: QI6 = Without service indicator

If you can loosen off the thin insulating jacket around the sides at all, you may be able to see anything written on the sides. Maybe even loosen the main clamp and move the battery a little without disconnecting all the gubbins on top. Tayna seem to think you have a 027EFB (but you can fit an AGM if you wish ). It's not impossible (but unlikely) there's some battery info in the three letter codes printed in the handbook.

I used these LED boot lights - not cheap but better than gambling with Ebay https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/octavia-iv/octavia-iv-mega-power-led-cargo-trunk-light-ki-r#description

Great stuff! Thanks for posting the answer.

Spend a fiver and shame the garage. These are a piece of cake to use. Look for brake pad measuring tool.

I suspect - since you see no damage on the handle - the fixing bolt has disappeared. Item 24. 23 is the handle. Part number for the bolt is N90651302 Looks like maybe only one of the two trim panels needs to come off to see if the fixing (part 29) is still there for the bolt to attach to.

You are not seeing steam. You are seeing water vapour - mostly because the atmosphere is already at 100% humidity. I guarantee your bonnet is not super hot - just warm enough to persuade some of the water on it to vapourise. Try a remote temperature sensor to see how warm it is.

Invite the dealer who carried out the service to cover this. If they decline, reamain calm and remind them that the small claims court procedure is pretty quick and cheap. No way should you be shelling out for this; the sump plug hasn't been touched since the service. More amusement follows if they try to say they didn't touch the sump plug when carrying out the service.

Your 350km drive is unlikely to have done this - probably failing for some time. A good exhaust specialist will find and fit the correct flexi repair section. Tempting to get creative with fencing / baling wire but unlikely to pass inspections or last. Worth also checking your engine mounts for excessive slackness allowing excessive movement.

Do you mean the hydraulic line or the handbrake cable? ISTR the visible hose/cable underneath is the handbrake cable. If so you might need one of these; https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/rapid/spare-parts/brake-system/handbrake-cables-246.html

Must.. read... question..... properly....... aargh....

Ballast resistor for the fan is the favourite. Failure is usually max speed only but you might just be seeing an almost dead resistor. Then, if that doesn't fix the issue, consider changing the stalk itself.

You're heading in the right direction. I'd get into the back brakes and make sure the caliper pins were clean and properly greased. Only the very cheap stuff is problematic from new.

Does this help? Last post on Page 5.

Afraid so. The accountants overruled the engineers - who knew fine when they designed it the internals would corrode and then leak after 5/6 years.

The dust shield behind the brakes can corrode off its mounting bolts and then contact the disc. Lots of noise but not serious. More likely to be a stone if your car is less than 7/8 years old.

Yes. Apart from pressing in the sides of the box to disengage the tags, you need to disengage the damping arm - here called the compartment brake element. It's about the size of a pen and is only fitted to one side. For your left hand drive Octavia I suspect it is on the left side.

In the UK we don't have such a generous warranty. And here, as Rooted pointed out, long life servicing can mean up to about 19,000 miles / 24 months (whichever comes first). 30K km! That gives the idle owner plenty of time to run the levels lower than optimal.....

Your engine, your driving routine, your choice. For about £30 and ten minutes with a Pela oil pump I bother to change at the half way point. Was the change to long life servicing brought about by improvements in oil/materials technology or by a desire to reduce costs to the big leasing fleets? Those who repair these engines on a daily basis will have a view (Crasher?).

Saab rear discs at 109K. Audi never changed in 125K. Every Skoda I've had in the past decade; OEM rear discs dead at 24K, 28K, .. need to inspect my Octavia at 26K when the winters go on. At least you got the message this time. Pads too I hope..... and the last time too??

Oil consumption will vary according to the duty cycle, and the luck of the draw. So far I've only needed 250ml between services on the 1.5 tsi - I'm on variable but I change the oil at the mid point. It does get quite dark by the 8000 mile point. Modern oils are pretty thin compared to the old days. As for trusting the garage - a decade ago I was checking my wife's Skoda 2 weeks after the service. Bit high, I thought, let's suck the excess out. Was I being fussy? Not when I took a litre out. I told the service manager I'd be claiming for a new cat if it failed the MoT on emissions. But I think you can relax. Just find a schedule to check these things that works for you and try to stick to it. Maybe as part of your long trip preparation every 1.5 months. You'll be fine.

Thank you for telling us what the answer is... and one in the eye for those of us with suspicious minds.

Go back to 4 Dec 22 - BigAde's post - for the latest. Original post is long past its sell by.

https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2020/575/oj and our UK implementation is this from the MoT testers handbook

From gov.uk..... Do LED headlamps require washers / self levellers? Headlamp washing and levelling systems are a legal requirement and required if the LED headlamp or high intensity discharge lamp has a luminous intensity exceeding 2,000 lumens. If the luminous intensity isn’t marked on the lamp, a tester won’t be able to tell if these systems are needed. In this case, the headlamps will be treated as ordinary lamps and the vehicle can be passed as they don’t need washers or levelling devices fitted. The headlamp washers and levelling systems can only be rejected if they’re fitted and are inoperative or obviously defective. If they’re missing and you think they should be fitted, then pass and advise.