Breezy_Pete

Primarily because @Rooted thinks it's better, and says it most days, I think. 😁

Bite that bullet.

The pipes are 50mm OD, item 3 here is the sleeve clamp

If you peel the rubber boot back from one or other of those ends, you're going to find a plug/socket connection, I feel. Item 2 here: Skoda Wiring Set For Door 5J6971161L - LLLParts

That's a mk2 schematic though?

Surprised by lack of connectors at B pillars. Photo?

F222 is lock module on rear left door, 223 the other side. T11 connectors are at B pillars. Circled numbers 76, 77 go to BCM inputs. All other circled numbers are earth points in looms (splices); or bolted earths to chassis metal. Look for broken wires or corrosion of connector contacts.

Dunno, but some of these sensors are active/polarised, I seem to remember. Experiment if you're keen.

What year is the car?

One of them is black, yes? That came out of connector pin 1 (will be numbered somewhere, possibly wire entry side).

£54 completely wasted.

More specifically, it will be the brown/green wire that goes to pin 2 of the white A-pillar connector that has the issue.

Broken wire or corroded connection at one of the A-pillar connectors, I imagine.

Welcome to Briskoda.

Or screenwash.

It's red in that situation I think, J.R.

Got any reference to back up that statement, please? I can look up what battery your car was built with, given the VIN.

Fingers crossed.

How do you know?

Pad wear indication, I think.

Lots and lots of people get that code, and it's always the strip fuse in my recollection. Could equally be a bad contact somewhere between rear connection of that fuse and the contact of the connector at the ABS module which that thick red/green wire goes to. Measure the voltage at that connector, relative to the thick brown earth that will also be on that connector somewhere. Can find more details tomorrow.

Have you tested the radiator fan(s)? Inability to sink heat out of the condenser might be why it works under non-challenging conditions, but switches off when ambient temps are higher? Somewhere in the measuring blocks of the HVAC module you should see a so-called 'shutoff code' that may give you useful info about why the A/C is switching off, if it is actively being commanded to. Lots of related info here: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/633/

CO2 is neither measured at, nor relevant to MOT. CO, carbon monoxide, is measured at MOT against limits on petrol cars only, and is often muddled with CO2, carbon dioxide by folk on forums.

There'll be one somewhere, probably obscured by 'stuff' in the bay. If it can't be seen without disassembly (or doesn't have a smoke figure, or it is unreadable), again you're probably in the clear.

That off-straightness in your pic is a giveaway that the mechanism on one side is seized. Probably the pivot point of the lever within the drum that the cable pulls on. If it was earlier in the day I could tell you which side to find the problem, probably left/nearside.