Breezy_Pete

The wording of the manual doesn't give any latitude to do anything but use the smoke figure off the plate if found, or the default 3.0 (for your turbodiesel) if not. This is the example plate they mention, with smoke figure in bottom right corner:

No, that's just the aircon refrigerant spec. If I were you I'd have a really good look around the bay in daylight, and find the manufacturers plate, try nearside towards the front, but could be anywhere. It may or may not have a smoke figure on it. If not, you may be OK.

This is the relevant page from the test manual, with some relevant-to-you bits highlighted. If there's no manufacturer's plate with that 0.8 on it, it should have been tested against 3.0 per meter standard, as I read it.

Is there a manufacturer's plate visible in the engine bay with this value written on it?

All the best mate.

Don't bother with the timing belt and water pump change. You're at the point where the risk/benefit/cost equation makes it not worthwhile. Shop around for brake pipe replacement, after getting independent confirmation that it's even necessary. Plod on.

Don't change anything without having a record of how it was originally.

Use VCDS to look around module 09 (Central Electronics/BCM) to see what adaptations are available relating to the DRLs.

The wiring info for your car suggests that there are separate lights for 'sidelight' and daytime running light (DRL) functions, fed by two different wires from the Body Control Module (BCM). On the left side of the car the sidelight wire goes into pin 10 of the 14-way connector at the light unit, and is grey/black On the left side of the car the DRL wire goes into pin 4 of the 14-way connector, and is blue/yellow On the right side of the car the sidelight wire goes into pin 10 of the 14-way connector, and is black/green On the right side of the car the DRL wire goes into pin 4 of the 14-way connector, and is blue/green See which ones of these wires have 12V on in various conditions? If you can do anything to change the DRL behaviour, it will be via the BCM coding/adaptations.

If you message me with the VIN, I may be able to look up at least which module is in control of them.

Same thing, yes.

Original is definitely 7mm.

It's something very small, like 7 or 8mm Natalie, off the top of my head. Very easy to shear off, I know from experience.. I think it's the very thin metal, plus the difficulty of avoiding putting any bending force onto it while working semi-blind round the back of the drum there.

It wasn't clear to me from the original post whether the new battery was actually giving any trouble or not. Seemed more like the unexpected charging voltages were giving the OP the (false) impression that there was a residual problem.

All the best.

Yep, exactly that, I believe, because the airbox has no temperature control/warm-air feed unlike previous iterations on the 1.4/16V engines.

Good plan. Do it. 👍 Doubt you'd miss it if you left it like that hereafter.

Might be the actual front left (nearside) sensor, or possibly a broken wire or corroded connection in the loom plug, Worth checking wiring near connector, and visual impression of connector contacts before spending on a replacement sensor, if poss. The ABS code I would be suspicious of relating to the blade fuse that the thinner red/green wire is going to (25Amp one?) or damage to that wire between there and ABS module. Unplugging connector from ABS module, and measuring voltage at the relevant connection would be ideal. Will give pin number later.

Read this: Energy management.pdf

Maybe you could just say what your impression of the video was?

What's your executive summary George, please? OK or not OK? Can't be listening to 16 minutes of that accent.

Sadly that variable charging voltage is exactly what you should expect from the alternator in a VW group car with start/stop, so you probably just scrapped a working alternator. The voltage varies to try to match supply and demand on the system. When the new battery was fitted, was the car's battery monitor module re-coded to 'know' about the change?

Ebay? Just search "BBZ engine".

Probably don't need to lift the car for the measurements I'm thinking of. 👍 I'll have a think and post more tomorrow.

I can't promise to fix everything, but I bet we could understand what needs doing pretty quickly. Might be as simple as a bad connection between alternator and battery. Or the engine earth connection being a bit corroded. Do you have a multimeter? Or know someone that could lend you one? Could maybe do some measurements that would tell a story.