Breezy_Pete

I believe both of the front door modules are connected to the convenience CAN network, but each rear door is only LIN connected to its same-side front unit. So for the whole passenger side to be affected I would think it will be front passenger side wiring problem, causing the front module to not be 'playing nicely' with the car as a whole. That in turn will mean the rear doesn't work due to the absence of LIN communication to tell it what it should do. Having said all that, I haven't actually looked at the relevant circuits for the OP's car, but at that age/recency, I believe that is the general norm for VW group.

I would expect it to be in the front passenger side I'm afraid. Still well worth looking at the driver's side though.

Yes, still doing these. Currently keen to improve low/zero stock of exchange units of the following types: Polo 6Y1959801 (VW240D2DRS or DDRS) T5 6Y1959801 (VW750DDRS) Roomster 6Y1959801 (SK258DDRS) If anyone is sitting on broken ones that they don't need I'd be happy to hear from you. 🙂

Knackered! I don't know much about airbag problems, never had any dealings. Don't know anything about parking sensor problems either! V68 fault might cause unpredictable cabin temperature issues.

Which car? Profile says 2013 Yeti, but this the mk2 Fabia subforum.

^ Yes, but just the input signal that tells the control unit that horn sounding has been requested, as opposed to a power supply for the horn. It's what I would suspect too, given the lack of any relay clicking, and the OP having mentioned doing something with steering wheel.

I think it might be one of the output tests you can run on that module, if you have VCDS/VCDS Lite (registered).

Horn relay is built (soldered) into the Onboard Supply Control Unit above the accelerator pedal. I doubt it's that though. Check fuse 40 is present, intact, not loose and has clean connections. Possibly a switch/input problem following the steering wheel replacement, rather than anything on the output side, if you don't hear relay clicking?

Handy that I did get round to checking before MOT; an inner pad on left side and outer pad on right were both 'vanishingly thin'.

I can confirm that the gap labelled here on the inner pads is normal, having checked ours today.

I will be doing a pre-MOT inspection on ours tomorrow, will take a few pics for comparison.

It's not visible in your picture, but look in real life, in daylight, to see if there are actually contacts in both sides of that fuse position, that would touch both sides of a fuse if it were there. I think I can see a pair on the right side as pictured, but left end is in shadow. If only one end of the fuse would make contact, you can be very confident that there isn't a fuse missing there. Even if there were, I very much doubt it would have anything to do with a one-sided heating problem.

Check the obvious fuses for the permanent 12V feeds to the window motors. Also the less obvious fuse 11, which is an ignition switched feed to driver's side one. Ideally verify both of those feeds at the motor connectors on driver's side relative to the thick brown earth wire in the 8-way. Ignition switched one is a black/blue wire in the 6-way connector. If that all checks out, which I expect it will, you need to replace or repair the driver's side window motor. Its faultiness is making both windows not work, and C/L not work via key in that door. PM me for repair option if you wish.

FSII pads are very different in shape between inner and outer, part numbers from LLL diagram/table.

@LesCM19 difficult to see what's going on from your pictures, but if I were doing the job I'd make sure to get some correct bits on there and remove a whole lot of rust before fitting any new bits. Especially where pad ears touch stuff.

For FSIII calipers that's true. But... It is an M8 allen head bolt (6mm key reqd) through parallel stainless tubes on FSII. Tubes and bolts (and rubber sleeves) different lengths between upper and lower positions.

Did well.

Oh, previous bodger.

Make sure your hex bit/Allen key engages full depth before applying force to minimise risk of rounding them out.

Haynes isn't helping you here!

It's a 6mm female socket in the end of the guide pin bolts you need 6mm Allen key to undo. Rubber stays where it is. Look at Google images of the bolt part numbers (different lengths, upper and lower).

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/453/6/615/615015

LLL is handy for catalogue info, to look up the correct part numbers of any mk1 bits https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/

FS II calipers don't have caps over the ends of the slide pin tubes.

Motor will sort itself with normal 1-touch reset.