Breezy_Pete

Very doubtful that it can make any useful recovery, sorry.

70Nm followed by 30° turn.

Zero chance if you don't get Skoda to do the MOT. Rust on the edges of brake discs doesn't matter.

I'm not sure that 5E0827505S exists? Did you mean to just type 5E0827505? In which case they appear to be equivalent: 5th Door Lock Škoda 5E0827505A (skoda-parts.com) See side by side part numbers in grey font.

£17.25 + VAT at a Skoda parts counter. (for 3C0820581, not sure if that's the one the OP needs). Bet you can get an aftermarket one for 50p!

Kinell! OK, sometimes the prices are decent. 😁

I wonder if they're struggling to find folk who want to be trained up? Hope the repair is accomplished quickly for you, and well done for sidestepping the various obstacles to getting it seen promptly.

No problem. As you've probably seen, not only can you navigate up/down the parts menus there to find out anything you like, but they also sell genuine parts at very decent prices.

Have I replied to that email? Been a bit deluged recently and have lost track a bit.

Hello Rachel, I'd be glad to try to help. I'll send you a Private Message in a few minutes. 👍

Either #13 or #22 here: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

Cost saving. 🙁

Surprisingly not. Not my car, but one I got through MOT recently without noticing the screw (not nail) in the tyre:

Do you have a spare tyre? If not, don't unscrew it! It may not go deep enough to leak, I had one recently where the screw was bizarrely short, and the tyre did not deflate at all after removal.

Only other thing to mention is the bits (kindly shown by the above) in between the motors. These microswitches and resistor combo will be to give positional feedback to the door control unit, to tell it when to stop driving the motors (i.e. limit switches). These won't be involved with control unit unconnected, so I would 'dab' at the motor connections with the 12V, rather than apply continuously. You'll probably hear a change of running speed at physical end of travel range. It might be informative to measure (resistance) between the two pins that connect these switches to the door control module before doing any powering of motors. This ought to tell you if either of those microswitch are currently closed/conducting, by reading 0 ohms or a finite resistance. Pins 6 (brown/black wire) to 7 (brown/yellow wire) at 20-way connector. Or both may be open as shown, so meter will read overlimit. Exactly what you do with the information gleaned, I'm not sure, but data is always good to have when available.

Do you mean at the lock module, or the door control module? I was thinking you could unplug that 20-way at the door control module and feed 12 and 0V into the pin numbers mentioned above, by poking thin wires into the appropriate contacts of the loom connector? Could actually just link across from the contacts that the thick brown 0V and thick red/yellow 12V appear on. Make any sense?

There was probably contact sparking/arcing that put interference on all 12V supplies for a time.

Well done. Interesting how it caused other problems! Your electric windows are not really affected by any other modules. Driver's side and passenger side motors are data connected to each other, but nothing else. Unlike the earlier pre-facelift version which are CAN connected. Message me for more help.

The first thing probably worth checking is the 12V permanent power to the thick red/yellow, and also the thinner red/violet feed going to the 20-way door module connector. If you measure relative to the thick brown earth wire on pin 20 of that connector, you'll be testing the earth continuity through the bellows too. There does seem to be two motors within the lock module, a lock motor and a safelock motor. Not really sure what the normal sequence of operation is, but they share one common wire, the green/yellow at the lock connection. The lock motor has a blue wire also going to it, the safelock motor has a grey/yellow. I assume that when locking and unlocking there is a 12V potential difference applied on these wires. So for one direction of lock movement the common, green/yellow would be at - say - 0V and the other two wires given 12V, probably one after the other? For the other direction, the common would be at 12V, the other two earthed. You can access the non-lock end of these wires at the 20-way connector that goes onto the door control module. Pin 11 is the common, green/yellow, 12 is the grey/yellow, 13 the blue. You could just play around with applying voltage to these wires and hoping to unlock it.

Replace it when the car struggles to start on a few consecutive days.

1K0413031BF is exactly the same part whatever brand you might find it in.

I will try to look at wiring info at some point this evening, not sure if there will be one or two motors within your lock module, but there ought to be a way of sticking 12V across a pair of now accessible wires to unlock the door.

Pure water will have the highest heat capacity, so will boil slowest for a given heat input.

I would keep the tyres for another year if there's plenty of tread, imagine if you put a new pair on and got an unrepairable puncture in one soon after. Where's the oil leak origin, did they say? Can be due to the oil separator on the back of the engine being clogged, causing excess pressure in the crankcase.

How much tread left on the tyres? Does that quote cover every item on that list? I would ignore some of them, like the exhaust corrosion, and possibly the brake hose ferrule corrosion, probably even the console bushes if you haven't noticed any handling problems or graunchy noises with the car.