Breezy_Pete

I think the majority of 5 year olds can probably draw better than me, with a pencil or probably a computer. 😁

😆 I was a bit new to photo editing when I did that!

Even fatter!

I've got a dimensioned sketch somewhere of the carrier rivets, but it's eluding me just now. The steel pins are fat though, maybe as much as 1/8th inch, 3.2mm? I'll keep hunting.

Whereabouts are you?

For your specific one, I would guess it would be near the rear of the car, with just one wire going most of the length of the loom.

No more than the broad hints of which general area of the car as far as I know, e.g. this sort of thing from a randomly picked page of a Citigo WD.

#39, 10 Amps for cars from built May 2011, by the looks of it. #41 before that.

That bubbling is definitely not normal. There should be a trickle of liquid coolant, which speeds up when revved. That was when engine was a operating temperature, was it? I wonder if the water pump might have lost most of its talent for pumping somehow? Any chance the coolant mixture has become too weak through topping up with just water, and you've had some ice form in the system recently, that has then damaged impeller blades of the pump?

Fix it or move it on?

@htm139, yes that generation with that connector arrangement seem to suffer with moisture/condensation ingress and 'greening' of the contact surfaces down there.

Check fuse 35 (10 Amp) for loosenesss or corrosion on the terminals. It supplies the injectors.

What engine code and year? Or VIN if easier.

Relevant relays are probably in positions 13 (engine ECU relay), and 14a (fuel pump), both on the bottom row of the relay panel.

Unlikely, PM me your VIN if you'd like me to see if I can find stuff applicable to your gearbox.

A very good point.

Open circuit voltage isn't the best measurement; you really need to see what the voltage dips to when a button is pressed.

Adding some sound insulation around that control unit is probably the best approach to minimising the annoyance.

Red arrow:

Wiring breakage adjacent to the connector plug is another strong possibility @GrahamM. Lowish on front face of gearbox.

Don't know, look for google images corresponding to those exact part numbers and compare with what you see in the car. Diagrams are often a bit generic on ETKA. Those data are from partslink24, a subscription site. Approximately the same info can be found here, minus the VIN filtering: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts Your car was built 27/06/2007 BTW.

Neither hose available from Skoda any more. Genuine prices before they were dropped were amazing: £273 + VAT and £181 + VAT. Watch out for aftermarket ones with claimed equivalence to similar part numbers on ebay etc, but with 6Q1 instead of 6Q2 at the start, they are for LHD set-ups and presumably won't fit. Not sure if the 6R2...part numbers shown below each of these and applicable to later built cars can be made to work on your set-up, but they're not shown as supersessions for your hoses.

Have a good look at the thermoswitch too, a few inches above bottom hose connection. They like to leak too, but can be fixed by just tightening a little.

Looks like a spurious code to me. No N279 in the circuits of a 2007 BLT engined Fabia. In fact, I don't think any mk1 Fabia has such a blocking valve. So I'll go with no, that's not why you're losing coolant.

Not sure if there's anything useful in the official workshop manual, but maybe worth a look. MK1 Fabia workshop manuals - SKODA Fabia - BRISKODA Eleventh file in list. Engine mechanicals 1.9-74kW Oil leakage may be a symptom of underlying faults with the crankcase ventilation system, causing excess pressure.