Breezy_Pete

Pretty bomb-proof cables to be honest, like an oversize bike brake or gear cable, spiral wound steel outer under the PVC cover.

Up to you. More of an aesthetic issue than functional, as long as they don't drop so far they rub on speedbumps etc.

Handbrake cables then.

How far towards the front do they go? Photo looks like a handbrake cable to me.

Yeah, I meant what damage has happened to it that leads you to need a replacement? 6R2 423 055 J is the part number of the complete rack with tie-rods that your car was built with. This part number was superseded by part number 6R2 423 055 L in Nov. 2013.

Message me with your VIN and it's easy for me to look up for you. What happened to the old rack?

Well that should be plenty! (Unless you meant 3mm?) Presumably you started looking into this because the battery wasn't charging? Or...?

I think so, yes. What engine does your Fabia have? I think on one or two types there is room to get the voltage regulator/brushpack off with it in situ, to check brush length.

I have a suspicion that Paws4Thot is KenONeill using a different account for some reason, seems to have a very similar 'style'. First joined a few days after Ken last visited.

If you don't see that, the problem is likely to be corroded wire or connections somewhere. If you do see it, possibly an alternator voltage regulator or brush problem. Get an assistant to switch on ignition for you and see if the battery light appears while you're measuring the current.

Does your meter have a dc current measuring range? If so, disconnect the plug at the alternator, and connect the pin that the blue wire goes to to chassis earth, through the meter set to - say - 200mA dc range (with leads in appropriate holes). Ignition needs to be on, and then you should see approx 50mA on the meter.

If the problem is confirmed as the control unit in the main/big fan then there will be no point in replacing the small one.

I think the only way to prove that the problem is/isn't the control unit in the main fan is to power the small fan independently after disconnecting it from the big fan.

I found the description of function that I remembered seeing! https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/470840-aircon-puzzle-intermittent-cold-output/?do=findComment&comment=5289212

Test the small fan on its own, as suggested above, as a first step. If that doesn't work you'll know that is a problem.

I'm not 100% sure on that version of things. Wait for someone with the same age/engine car replies, I think. A forum post I read some years ago said they should both work at the same time, but I don't know if I could find it again (wasn't this forum).

I think your car will have the fan control module built into the main fan. You can perhaps disconnect the smaller fan and try powering it directly from battery to test if it works?

What year was the car built? Do you know if the fan control module is built into the main fan (if it is, the power to that smaller fan will come from the main fan), or is it separate? On Skodas with separate control module, both fans are usually wired in parallel, so should both run any time fan action is commanded.

Shouldn't be necessary.

Very likely. Fault codes should tell which one.

Message me with your VIN and I'll see if I can find out.

Checking the relevant fuse is probably the only other thing to do, to be sure it will work if ever hot enough. That is fuse 8 in a covered section of blade fuses to the right of the strip fuses above battery. 30 Amp rated with a red wire coming off it towards the radiator thermoswitch.

@protoncoder does the car have air conditioning? A 17 year old fan can easily be dead, hopefully you'll soon tell us if it spins up with direct power. Careful you don't cut fingers (or worse) if/when it starts up.

Brown negative, red/white positive.

In that case definitely don't try to tighten any further. Should be fine.