Breezy_Pete

Brown negative, red/white positive.

In that case definitely don't try to tighten any further. Should be fine.

New screws?

What length of ratchet handle or breaker bar were you using for the angle stage? Leverage is the key to controlled angle tightening, plus a bar that doesn't bend.

Sounds very likely.

Stick a jack under the sump with a block of wood to protect it and spread the force then lift it a little til you have clearance?

The current part numbers for your car are 6R0407365B and 6R0407366B for left and right respectively.

Sometimes the 11th character is also replaced by a dash.

To convert ViN to that format of chassis number, you replace the 9th character of VIN with a dash (-). So your chassis number is 5J-93165977; giving part y as the correct fit. Non-obvious, right?

When you do up a bolt, most of the turning force is overcoming friction, rather than directly tensioning the fastener. Angle tightening, on the other hand, gives a known amount of extra extension (and so tension) almost irrespective of how much friction there is. So a combination of a low torque setting and an additional angle gives a much more accurate tension in the fastener than just a bigger torque value.

There is no clutch, it's a shear plate. Completely different things.

A wise check on a mk1 Fabia is to see if the battery symbol illuminates when you switch the ignition on and various warning lights self-test. It should come on and stay on until you start the engine. A very common wire breakage results in it not doing this, and charging problems that may not be obvious. I would expect your alternator to be 90 Amp rated, maximum; but that will replenish the energy used in starting the engine very rapidly. A full charge from empty will obviously take longer through idling or driving, but as long as you don't leave the car unused for lots of time all should return to normal without external chargers, as long as no wires are broken, or a parasitic drain is causing energy loss.

@Malume I think you have confirmed automatic transmission by your more recent messages, so in this case I think the G68 sensor must be either item 3 or 4 on this page; whichever one has a yellow and a white wire going to it.

A scan of the HVAC module might provide clues.

ro= red ge= yellow sw= black bl=blue br=brown They're from the German words Rot, Gelb, Schwartz, Blau and Braun.

Can't remember if someone suggested it to me (likeliest), or I dreamt it up myself, but I'd been in denial about a headgasket problem on a Vauxhall Omega for some weeks at the time. Seeing a puddle of coolant sitting on cylinder 4's piston crown, and sampling it with a clean white bit of rag taped to a chopstick or similar was very clear-cut when that came out coolant-coloured.

Don't think a TSI will have an EGR cooler, not sure. If it had, you could bypass it so coolant didn't go there. If I were you, I'd take all the sparkplugs out after an overnight 'sit' unused, and shine a torch down the hole of each where they've come out, looking for dampness/puddles of coolant on a piston crown. Free to try and very convincing if found.

The instrument cluster is usually very easy to get out far enough to access the connectors. A mk2 owner will hopefully guide you to the exact method. Youtube may well have a video guide.

What are the fault code numbers? If you message me with your VIN I can tell you what part number your accelerator pedal assy is.

What year is the car? Not sure if it's true of all mk2s, but early ones at least have the input for the main beam warning light on pin 2 of the 32-way green connector of the instrument cluster. Check that there is 12V there (on the white wire, probing down from cable entry with everything connected, ideally) when headlights are on main beam, and if so, expect that the solder joint of the male connector to the circuit board has a dry joint.

That's the safest strategy, but if the connector fits, I would imagine that one may work. It's nothing special, just a 4-wire binary oxygen sensor. Lots of people think the suffix is 'only a revision level' but it's often not that simple. For example, the front, 5/6-wire wideband sensor on your car is 036906262G. Clearly this wouldn't fit or work as a rear one.

Skoda-parts.com doesn't have any hits for the 036906262F part number, suggesting it isn't factory fitment on any Skodas. I presume you have a suffix F one, or you've found one going cheaply on ebay or something?

Is there a keyway difference, maybe, it's a different colour, right?

This is still the correct part number (using the VIN helpfully put in your profile). The suffix -F part may be completely different in function and fitment.

@26DIPP is that a display like the OP's or like @Jocko's above ^ Yes 117ma is about 100 too much. Can be a BCM fault, in my experience, if real. An update from the OP on the measurement after 30 mins of allowing to go to sleep would be good.