Breezy_Pete

Easier said than done, I fear, and you've said it might be tricky. What about trying the magnet waving on the rear sensor (extracted) that seems to be working, to test your test technique?

Actually, not so sure now I've looked at some workshop manuals. Would be odd if it can't. Are you saying you've done one on an AUB sep?

If the sensor is kidding the ECU into thinking cranking is too slow, that could be the issue. I'm near certain that you can change the crank sensor without removing gearbox, will see if I can dig up instructions. Or ask your VW guy? Not Crasher is it? He's on here too.

Inspect cylinder 2's wire between coil and ECU for damage/exposed copper/corrosion maybe? Probably easier to run a new wire in parallel with existing, spicing in close to connector at each end? Or are you saying all's well now?

The specified oil for that code is part number G 052 512 A2, superseded by G 055 512 A2, £14.92 + VAT per litre from dealership. Fill qty is stated as 2.1L but most people report that they are unable to get the full theoretical amount in when refilling, so I would quite confidently predict that 2 litres will be enough.

Read your gearbox code off the build sticker on the boot floor. Same line as engine code, often.

I think testing off the car probably needs a small magnet to waft around near it, while having +12V on pin 5, the return/earth of that on pin 1, then measuring volts at pin 2 and expecting it to come and go as the magnet is/isn't adjacent. Sort of as explained at the end of my post on May 19th above.

The data sheet posted contains this line just under the headings, which might be a clue: "The REACH etc. (Amendment etc.) (EU Exit) Regulations 2019, SI 2019/758 (as amended)." Wonder if brexit has made that link I posted obsolete somehow? Bet the A\C refill commercial outfits are 'snowed under' this week, and thoroughly booked up for the foreseeable.

It will be their failure to 'tell' the car there's a new battery fitted that'll be causing the fault indications, I'm almost certain; nothing really wrong. They need to finish installing the battery by doing this coding, or they haven't done the job properly. Please don't let them off the hook on this. @varooom has written a guide for how to do this, maybe show it to them if they say 'not necessary' or fob you off in any way. The warnings probably would/will go away on their own over time, but if you've paid to have the battery fitted, they should do the whole job.

Does look like the right data, thanks, but baffled by the contradiction with the link above. Halfords seem to need showing that link? 🤔

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/selling-f-gas-or-equipment

No. Pretty sure you'll find BOC will only sell that to registered trade. You'll be going back to get your deposit on the empty, won't you? Please get the MSDS, then we'll all know.

If you ever go back for more ask for the MSDS sheet for it, it'd be interesting to know what it actually is. I believe they are required by law to supply this if you ask for it. Says R134A on the tin but they'd be breaking the law if they sold that to Joe Public, and I've a screenshot somewhere of a Web chat with Halfords where they admitted it isn't. Most people won't care.

Mk1 has same problem.

Wheel balance checked all round? Tyre condition likewise?

Give the Halfords kit a big swerve, in my opinion. Optimistic to imagine there was anything wrong with previous refill, I'm afraid. There will be a leak or more than 1, just a matter of finding and fixing. The refillers will nearly always refill, though there are big fines for refilling systems that test as leaking.

I'll be glad to help, will message you a contact number shortly.

The intervals between regassing get shorter and shorter as the cars age and leaks get gradually more prevalent. What's the exact fault code? G65 low pressure?

Is there not a part number on it? Message me with your VIN if you want me to look up correct part number/availability/price for genuine new.

Remaps ought (legally speaking) to not worsen emissions, but in practice this isn't policed with regard to NOx, so they needn't keep exhaust aftertreatment systems optimised, which native mapping has to. (With the obvious exception of 'dieselgate' diesels). That probably means mapped petrol engines can be run much leaner on cruise, saving fuel but upping NOx output.

1J0803219 for the clamp, N10109210 for the screw (M8x30). £7.07 + VAT for a new clamp at dealership, £1.91 + VAT for the screw. Are you sure they're not in a scuttle cover under the windscreen, or fallen onto the engine undertray? Did they adapt the battery management system to the new battery?

Unreassuring. 🙁

Well done for asking rather than breaking it. 🙂 The knack is to apply pressure as if trying to connect, rather than disconnect, on the body of the connector, then pull the latch gently towards where the wires emerge. It only needs to move a few mm before you'll hear a click and the connector will be free to pull off in the opposite direction to where you were just pushing. There are various youtube videos showing this if it doesn't make sense in my words, search for something like "vw connector removal".

Either the replacement was from a different car (should have said SK250DDRS on bottom line of part number label for a mk2 Fabia) or someone took the motor housing off and accidentally rotated it before refitting. Can you read the part number label with it installed? (Door card would need to be off to see). Do you still have the old motor module, that you 'worked on'? Not sure if the juddering is related to the reversed operation, could well be a separate, mechanical issue.

Combined with manifold pressure (MAP) sensor here, where giant finger is pointing.