Breezy_Pete

6R2721503D is a current part number that hasn't been superseded. I wouldn't bet on an older (6Q) variant working right, and a 6Q1 part will be a LHD pedal I think, so probably not going to even physically fit.

For the fitting kit, I think.

Skoda is part of VW so I'd expect lots of commonality.

One option for genuine new https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125978801142. Many, many aftermarket alternatives available if you search that part number on ebay, or elsewhere, no doubt. Dealer would be able to order in if they were being more helpful, retail price currently £22.50 + VAT.

@Bazmcc to get the switches to work the right (correct) windows with the LHD motor module in place, you'd need to cross over the wires coming from switches E40 and E81 in the lower left corner of this pic to the window motor (J386) connectors. They are white/black and black/green wires. You could also correct the direction of motion of the driver's side window by rotating the metal motor housing 180° so the label faces the other side. There are permanent magnets inside which give the field a polarisation. The disadvantage of this is that the electronics will probably still think it is lifting the glass when it's actually lowering it, and vice-versa. The anti-pinch function that stops you trapping fingers/limbs in the window while it's going up will likely not work (cos I can't see why it would be programmed to work on downward glass motion). Do at your own risk, and ideally tell any subsequent owners about it. If you decide to try this, you can probably do as follows, for minimum risk of damage: 1. Defeat (simultaneously) the 6 plastic clips that hold the circuitboard section in and pull that out and clear. 2. Undo the 4 torx screws that hold the motor housing to the plastic casing. 3. Gently pull the motor housing with rotor and brushpack away, wiggling/turning the beige gear in the appropriate direction will help it come out 4. Leaving the rotor where it is, pull the brushpack carefully away from the motor housing enough to be able to turn the latter relative to the former. 5. Turn the motor housing by 180° 6. Refit brushpack, easing the brushes into place on the commutator. Take the opportunity to clean things a little first if there's tons of carbon dust about. 7. Refit motor with opposite direction wiggle/turn of beige cog to help It's best to leave the rotor shaft fully in the metal casing, rather than pull it plus brushpack out to rotate the housing. The bush/bearing at the end of the metal housing can easily be knocked round out of position as the rotor shaft is refitted, due to the magnets pulling the rotor out of alignment. If the rotor shaft doesn't go back in right this bush tends to get destroyed as the motor housing is bolted back up. Let me know if you want me to repair a correct module instead.

Measure voltage drops between alt output stud and battery positive, with loads on. Then do same from alt body to battery negative. That should tell you which half of the wiring is responsible for the majority of the voltage drop. How old is the battery?

Find and improve the bad connection you probably have. Disconnect main chassis to engine earth cable and clean both ends as a first step. Usually goes from chassis leg to one of the two starter motor mounting bolts.

Was only thinking of the private plates with mis-spaced characters trying to spell out stuff really.

If they could start on the spurious foglights and mis-spaced reg plates too, they coud really make me happy.

Ah, OK. The one on its own is from a LHD Roomster. The other two are normal RHD mk1 Fabia units. Can almost certainly fix those for you. PM me to discuss and work something out if you like.

@mk1Tom I have to say it seems rather unlikely that TomBate will reply, not having visited the forum for almost exactly 10 years. Check the things suggested by people who replied ten years ago, and go from there.

What happened to the Fabia, or is that pending?

I guess you could ask the person who repaired the loom if they did it with it in situ, which seems likely, or removed it. If done without removal, there's unlikely to be any issue with the lock connector. Can you look at the connector at the A-pillar again, to see if he fitted a whole new connector (as per something like this fabia door loom repair for sale | eBay) or just repaired individual busted wires on the existing connector?

Another thing maybe worth checking, if you are happy to take the door card off, is to check whether the door lock connector is installed correctly. It's possible that if the loom was removed to repair it, it may not have been plugged back into the lock. I must admit, I wouldn't expect this to affect the fob-triggered locking/unlocking of other doors though. On mk2 I believe there's a fabric (plastic?) patch that can be peeled back at the top corner of the door to give access to the lock connection.

Have you got a multimeter you could use to check that the visible metal strips on the top of the fuse are both at 12V?

Should be top row, 4th from right of the full size blades, in my head? Edit: Yep, can see the numbers now I'm on a big screen

Leave the shocks as well, bet they still work fine.

Ask for it, see what they say?

Yes, on your car car the control module that does the central locking is the central convenience unit, known as J393 in wiring documents, and module #46 in VCDS. It would be nice to try to connect to that with VCDS, not sure what type of reader was used to see the 'No communication' reported by your mechanic? Any chance of a photo showing the fuse 45 location that you've checked? It's been known for the owners manual to mislead via images of left hand drive fusebox which may have different orientation.

Have you got a spare fob and if so have you tried that?

And they didn't even manage to check the horn, despite it being one of the few things on the list! 😆

I think I can just about see the absence of such a 'fancy' pulley in that video, but a pic of the end of the shaft in the alt pulley would confirm either way. Must get around to fitting the one I bought, now that you mention it JR. 😁 Ours did more than twice that before having any significant issues, so hopefully nothing major.

Ta. @CanadianClimber, I guess if you can't lock all the doors via C/L at the moment you can't double-press unlock to see if the other doors unlock? So maybe they would; if you see what I mean? I guess you can manually lock the passenger front door with the button from inside though, then try? I guess the rear doors don't have buttons? Are the windows currently working reliably?

Good