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Breezy_Pete

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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete

  1. With the symmetry of the caster numbers, and the reported one-sided impact, it seems most likely to me that their 'normal range' caster figures are simply not correct for your car. Unfortunately, I don't have reference material to look confirm or reject this idea. The loose/baggy steering feel seems more likely due to a damaged suspension bush, or bent component, than a caster problem.
  2. This is what happens with my TB at ignition on, if I just leave it without turning the key further to crank. 20230618_152810.mp4
  3. That genuine one on ebay has been relisted at same low starting price, with offers engine speed sensor for vw part no 030957147AA | eBay ?
  4. @Brissy, engine code is an identifier of the precise variety of engine in a given car. Not the same as fault code, which is what you seem to be asking about. I would recommend asking in the more relevant section of the forum, here: Diagnostics & VCDS - BRISKODA
  5. Photo showing exact location would allow parts catalogue look-up.
  6. Ebay item no. 332866808161 appears to be a rear right from a Fabia, but you might need a friend in the North to collect and post on. 263196812291 is a rear left from a Fabia, with free postage. Probably worth going through each of those sellers items to see if they have t'other side too.
  7. Check or re-check fuse 52 (15 Amp) for the ignition circuit. I'll try to check out what my throttle body does with just ignition on, and maybe make a vid of it during a start-up. Did you adapt the ECU to the new TB with VCDS after fitting? I'll see if I can read off cranking speed on my BBY Polo too, by disabling start-up, perhaps by removing some fuse or other.
  8. @CzechPassat, good work, well done. @J.R. the circuit diagram that includes this Hall effect sensor on the clutch master cylinder shows it like this, which I think is meant to show a 'virtual' normally closed switch controlled indirectly by the hall sensor and associated electronics. There's also a normally open switch not used in this application. Rectangular box with 26 inside is a fused 12V feed, connection other side of NC switch is to engine ECU.
  9. @TMB may have a photo as he has a very similar engine, but if you trace the black plastic pipe back from the brake servo (big black round thing on back wall of engine bay) you'll come across a one-way valve that will resemble the one pictured, to some extent.
  10. Check for cracked solder joints of the green 32-way connector of the instrument cluster; pin 23 is where the pressure switch connects to/through. If you have any other questions after checking that, please start your own thread in the Mk1 Fabia sub-forum, rather than further hijacking Marcusjohn's thread. 🙂
  11. The A/C condenser is the thing that sits in front of the engine coolant radiator. The A/C evaporator is the thing in the cabin that gets cold. Just cabin-side of where the refrigerant pipes go through the firewall. The thing under the driver's seat is probably a diesel fuel cooler. The evaporator drain is visible in the first two photos you posted, 8* in the first 5 in the close-up second photo, adjacent to the pipes going to the heater matrix. Find it under a flap of sound insulation (shown as item 1 in your second picture), and as described in that linked thread. The condensed water is probably running from this drain, around the body metalwork to a low point near the fuel cooler, then falling to the ground.
  12. Photo of the fuses as described/shown by TMB might save you a load of cash replacing something that isn't the problem. Whereabouts are you James?
  13. Duplicated colours are usually slightly different thicknesses.
  14. Bosch or NGK/NTK for lambda sensors is probably safe. Not sure about MAF, OEM may well be Bosch, see if there is a Bosch part number on it.
  15. Partslink24, but it costs money. Various pirated free catalogues are online e.g. ,https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/ but usually not completely up to date and lacking the facility to input VIN and have results filtered to only show relevant parts.
  16. VIN supplied by PM, engine code = BFQ. Car built 17 Jan 2003. Front lambda probe part number 1K0998262D. Others can help with physical location, probably just before/upstream of catalytic converter on front exhaust section. Rear lambda probe 1K0906262AJ, superseded by 1K0998262Q. Air mass meter 06A906461B 👍
  17. Tell me the engine code or VIN and I can help. Engine code is on build sticker near spare wheel or on a sticker on cambelt top cover. VIN is visible from outside car through base of windscreen.
  18. (Relatively) Good price here Skoda Wiring Set For Door 5J0971120HG - LLLParts
  19. The full part number of that is 5J0971120GK. It has been superseded to 5J0971120HG, £98.70 + VAT from a Skoda dealership. Not sure you'll find many if any other sources for a new one.
  20. Skoda dealership parts dept. Surprisingly, not vastly expensive, probably part number 3Q0201801D, £46.42 + VAT, but they'll get it right with your reg number or VIN.
  21. OK, just trying to help.
  22. Maybe a temperature-related 'feature'? Deliberate? See what others with same car say. A failure so early in the car's life seems unlikely.
  23. For 7 euro plus tax you can get an hour of access to erWin Skoda, the online official information resource. Circuit diagrams are amongst many of the pdfs you can download. Fuse tables are at the end of such docs. Not all countries allow access to this, I think Australia is one that doesn't.
  24. Fuse 7, and 39-46 inclusive and fuse 50 of the cabin fuseholder all appear to be ignition switched.
  25. This page shows a couple of older equivalent part numbers,in grey boxes near top of page. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/030957147aa-speed-sensor-1-4-16v-55kw-european-union-41175.html Not sure why so many part numbers, I have a spare for my manual BBY but that's a different number from any of those, though it has a captive cable.

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