Breezy_Pete

I think the only way to prove that the problem is/isn't the control unit in the main fan is to power the small fan independently after disconnecting it from the big fan.

I found the description of function that I remembered seeing! https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/470840-aircon-puzzle-intermittent-cold-output/?do=findComment&comment=5289212

Test the small fan on its own, as suggested above, as a first step. If that doesn't work you'll know that is a problem.

I'm not 100% sure on that version of things. Wait for someone with the same age/engine car replies, I think. A forum post I read some years ago said they should both work at the same time, but I don't know if I could find it again (wasn't this forum).

I think your car will have the fan control module built into the main fan. You can perhaps disconnect the smaller fan and try powering it directly from battery to test if it works?

What year was the car built? Do you know if the fan control module is built into the main fan (if it is, the power to that smaller fan will come from the main fan), or is it separate? On Skodas with separate control module, both fans are usually wired in parallel, so should both run any time fan action is commanded.

Shouldn't be necessary.

Very likely. Fault codes should tell which one.

Message me with your VIN and I'll see if I can find out.

Checking the relevant fuse is probably the only other thing to do, to be sure it will work if ever hot enough. That is fuse 8 in a covered section of blade fuses to the right of the strip fuses above battery. 30 Amp rated with a red wire coming off it towards the radiator thermoswitch.

@protoncoder does the car have air conditioning? A 17 year old fan can easily be dead, hopefully you'll soon tell us if it spins up with direct power. Careful you don't cut fingers (or worse) if/when it starts up.

Brown negative, red/white positive.

In that case definitely don't try to tighten any further. Should be fine.

New screws?

What length of ratchet handle or breaker bar were you using for the angle stage? Leverage is the key to controlled angle tightening, plus a bar that doesn't bend.

Sounds very likely.

Stick a jack under the sump with a block of wood to protect it and spread the force then lift it a little til you have clearance?

The current part numbers for your car are 6R0407365B and 6R0407366B for left and right respectively.

Sometimes the 11th character is also replaced by a dash.

To convert ViN to that format of chassis number, you replace the 9th character of VIN with a dash (-). So your chassis number is 5J-93165977; giving part y as the correct fit. Non-obvious, right?

When you do up a bolt, most of the turning force is overcoming friction, rather than directly tensioning the fastener. Angle tightening, on the other hand, gives a known amount of extra extension (and so tension) almost irrespective of how much friction there is. So a combination of a low torque setting and an additional angle gives a much more accurate tension in the fastener than just a bigger torque value.

There is no clutch, it's a shear plate. Completely different things.

A wise check on a mk1 Fabia is to see if the battery symbol illuminates when you switch the ignition on and various warning lights self-test. It should come on and stay on until you start the engine. A very common wire breakage results in it not doing this, and charging problems that may not be obvious. I would expect your alternator to be 90 Amp rated, maximum; but that will replenish the energy used in starting the engine very rapidly. A full charge from empty will obviously take longer through idling or driving, but as long as you don't leave the car unused for lots of time all should return to normal without external chargers, as long as no wires are broken, or a parasitic drain is causing energy loss.

@Malume I think you have confirmed automatic transmission by your more recent messages, so in this case I think the G68 sensor must be either item 3 or 4 on this page; whichever one has a yellow and a white wire going to it.

A scan of the HVAC module might provide clues.