Breezy_Pete

It's in the front half of the airbox, the section that does not need to be removed to change the filter. Wedging the flap in the cold air only position is probably the easiest solution, which can be done with a screw. Do the experiment first (running without airbox), I might be completely wrong about why the engine is having trouble.

Are you aware of the warm/cold air mixer system within the airbox? When the wax thermostat in there fails, it leaves the mixer flap in the 'maximum warm air' position. The combination of that unnecessarily warm air and hot EGR flow may be causing the problem.

Can you try running without engine cover/airbox for a short drive when engine is fully warm? See if fault still happens.

EGR flow isn't enabled until coolant temperature is above a certain point, maybe 50°C, Can't remember exactly, so that may be why it's OK when cooler.

Have you inspected the brake servo vacuum hose for cracks and leaks?

Or the bearing didn't go quite fully in on that side. @joeninho is the problem on the first side you did?

^ Wildly optimistic.

I'll send you a message requesting the VIN. With that I will be able to help.

Isn't the thing you are calling 'relay pack' the same thing as "fan regulator - J126'? It doesn't contain any relays, I don't think, transistors instead. Follow Binx1310's link to look. If power is getting to that but not to the fan motor then either that new J126 is faulty, or it isn't getting the necessary information to know what it should do. There is a thin communication wire that tells J126 what to do, coming from the Climatronic module, as @Cairus described a few posts back. That wire may be damaged or have a poor connection at either end of itself.

Might also result in DPF problems if engine management isn't fooled.

Should fail MOT without, but might require quite a thorough tester to spot it. You can get an emulator which plugs into a couple of places and keeps engine management quiet. All a bit illegal, of course.

Damn, google is good sometimes https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497627-oil-sensor-fault-octavia-vrs-2019/

There was a member posting about spurious oil level warnings on a new car of about the same vintage, a few years ago, I think. Dealer had several goes at fixing it. Wish I could remember the member's name. Don't worry about the cold level, just remember how it relates to operating temperature level, for convenience. Some people swear the level will be higher when cold. My experience is the opposite.

Your logic was correct. Easier to get it right if holding track rod and lock nut still while unscrewing TRE, cos then it is anticlockwise as viewed from where you are. (Assuming outboard of everything is where you are). If you held the track rod by the flats on it, while trying to shift the nut inwards along it, you would see that as clockwise if sitting outboard of everything.

Have you seen where it's located? If it's the EA189 engine family, they're not exactly in a position to make anything 'simple'.

Except... Which bit are you holding still and which bit are you trying to shift? Leaving the lock nut stuck where it is, and attempting to unscrew the TRE off it may be easier than trying to move the lock nut inward along the track rod?

Any progress today? Hotter heat and longer levers is about all I can suggest.

Spoons presumably.

Try pulling the key just a teeny bit outward, like a millimetre, then try to turn it.

I believe that if you register a VIN at skoda-parts.com you can subsequently be offered only parts that suit that VIN. Haven't tried it myself, but it sounds handy if it works. Give it a try. Typically the info on the boot sticker only gives rear brake PR code, not front.

Dunno, but probably yes. In the cabin somewhere rather than in engine bay.

Confirm 100% that the correct fuse was looked at. Fit a new fuse yourself, if it wasn't you that previously checked it.

Depends if there was any load on it when you measured that voltage. Open circuit voltage doesn't give much clue about what it does when there is a draw on it.

Probably just refrigerant shortage, but that may be the result of a leak. A good refill place should find a leak if there is one, and cannot refill it if they know it is leaking.