Breezy_Pete

I think that's only coding of the steering weight options, which I have done successfully. If the hardware isn't compatible, I think it will not help you. Did the seller of the 8Z0 Audi part tell you that it was compatible with your 6Q0423156AB?

Yeah, I don't see anywhere that lists 8Z0423156F and 6Q0423156AB as being compatible. I think this Audi part is from a much earlier generation (~2001) so may have a different capacitance sensor, there was a change around 2003 in Fabia Mk1 with racks/sensors from before then not being compatible with later ones, even when both are TRW.

I think this will solve your problem. But if the voltage during cranking continues to drop that low, I would say that it may well be time to consider replacement.

I think that 8Z0 part is just not a compatible number, what made you think it was?

Are you sure that replacement doesn't have TRW written on top of the green cap? Koyo has 4-pin angle sensor connector, that looks like a 3-pin?

Koyo system uses hall effect angle sensing; TRW capacitive. Rack, sensor and pump all must match.

See if all parts of the compressor pulley rotate together when A/C enabled.

Talk to you again in June. 😁

Do you hear a hissing noise deep inside the dashboard when switching between A/C active/not? That often gives an audible indication of low refrigerant pressure.

It's a pressure sensor not a switch, and it lives in the alloy pipework just in front of your coolant expansion tank. If you can't spot it, post a pic of that area and I'll highlight it for you.

Doubt it, I was only thinking of the way-lean tailpipe lambda reading.

Front shock pinch bolt is M14 XZN on some models. Rear brake carrier bolts also maybe. Not sure I've seen T60 torx anywhere though.

Typo, presumably.

All petrol engines with cats need to run at stoic for the cats to work optimally. MOT has very tight tolerance 0.97 - 1.03 from memory. Air leak in exhaust can make for dodgy tailpipe lambda reading, any chance there's such a leak?

👍

They might be fine pitch rather than standard thread pitch like those Screwfix ones surely will be. Stainless will also be weaker.

Look for an unplugged connector near the battery negative post.

Can't check now cos our Fabia was built minus alarm, and Polo one I ripped out pre-empting trouble. You may be right, there's always a chance. 🙂

I think that's normal, in cars with RF remote locking? (And an alarm fitted)

Fair play. Virtually impossible for the wiring to get damaged anywhere other than the area that bends in the door hinge, but... If the rubber boot hasn't been properly in position you can get water running down and corroding those connections. Did you unplug the 28-way plug, or just eyeball in situ?

One of the positions of each switch does exactly this ( the one with no resistor shown) , so there would seem to be more damage potential doing what you did before, with 12V feeds. Up to you, it doesn't seem like you're 100% understanding what I'm writing, nor the wiring diagram. What you're trying to establish is not whether the switch wiring is OK, but whether drivers side module is alive/awake. These are the resistor values I found on a switch pack for an earlier car (Mk1 Fabia I think) and which way the window should move with each. So shorting to earth should open a window From another thread on Briskoda: Both passenger and driver's side switch in the drivers door offer the same selection of four options. 1. Press switch down to the first detent - 150 Ohms to earth 2. Press switch fully down - short/0 Ohms to earth 3. Pull switch up to first detent - 1.8k Ohms to earth 4. Pull switch up fully - 530 Ohms to earth. It's possible that your switch may have different values, but if you can measure four different resistances (one = 0) for each switch you will have shown the switch to be innocent of fault., if you short the wires to ground, windows should open irrespective of the switch condition. (Ignition probably needs to be on for this).

I don't really follow what you mean by that, but as I said before, I doubt those two wires could get damaged. If you earth either end of either of those two wires do you hear any relay clicks? I can't remember if the switch position that shorts those wires direct to earth (no resistor) is an opening window or a closing window position. Either way I think if you short say the black/green wire to earth you should hear a click from the relay inside the driver's side motor module, if it is alive. If it's an opening position and the window is closed, you should see movement.

To check the wiring in the door bellows you don't need to dismantle the door at all. Here's one thread with a picture of where I mean, there are many, many such threads

The fact that the illumination works means the that earth is intact, and the black/green and white/black are within the main part of the door loom, so pretty well protected from harm compared to those that go from door to body of car. Seems improbable that both switches have failed at the same time, so... I'd say you'll find at least one broken wire in the bellows area, which is rendering the driver's side module (J386) temporarily unable to do its work.

No. Brown is earth Black/green is from/to right window switch White/black is from/to left window switch Grey/blue is illumination The switches ground/earth their respective 'output' wires via different resistances. The differing voltages that arise at the motor module pins 4 and 6 cause the different functions.