Breezy_Pete

Is the car usable/on the road, or not? I'd be happy to have a look at repair if you were willing to post it to me.

I have a bag with 6 in which confused me until I realised it was originally 10 and I've only used 4. PM me if you'd like to make me an offer for em. Can't see me using them anytime soon. Pitch confirmed at 1.5mm

What's the problem with the original?

10.9 rated and captive grippy washer by the looks of this page, n90930902 VAG Болт (autocode.ru) Duff info sorry, pics on that page were of different part number. 😁 but it seems that different part number supersedes the one on Lee's page, so same observations apply.

Row ends are generally marked on loom connectors I think; this may help, probably mating face view of loom connectors. You will almost certainly find you need a fine piece of wire to poke into the relevant receptacles, as the pins tend to be mostly tiny, much smaller than meter probes.

erWin. You have to pay a small fee for an hour's access, but you can download stunning amounts in that time. Alternatively, there's a good selection (for Mk1 Fabia) here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/files/file/76-mk1-fabia-workshop-manuals/

80Nm for track rod to rack, according to Skoda in their Fabia info. Doubt Roomster is going to differ. Image mirrored compared to what you'll see, LHD shown/described.

I did suggest you inspect the wiring when this first came up about 3 threads of yours ago, but I didn't give you the full info then, so here you go now. G28 is the crank sensor, J248 is the engine ECU, F27 is a joint within the loom where the cable screen joins onto the earthy side of the wiring (pin 2 at sensor connector, pin 102 at ECU).

Copying the above in/out of notepad to remove the weird black background. Hi guys. Thanks to Admin for accepting my membership, but I have a problem. I am working on a polo mk3 6N 1.8 VIN:AAVZZZ9VZ1U006491 (in RSA the car is called the Polo Classic). Nit about engine code. If looks like the CITI GOLF engine though. Anyway, back to my problem... First things first, the car was driving well as per customer interview and what caused the car to stall was that the crank pulley came off while it was being driven on the road. The car was towed to a mechanic to fitted a new pulley and fanbelt. When all was done, the car did now want to start. It cranks but no start. The mechanics made the customer buy a new distributor, new petrol pump and new plugs... What I did: I confirmed that it has spark. I introduced some starter fluid and it started but stalled as soon as the starter fluid is used up. So we can rule out low compression and spark as being the problem as it starts. Two, the problem points to petrol supply... but the fuel pump is working well and I have confirmed that fuel reaches the injectors with no blockage... I did a visual inspection and I noticed that this one does not have a crank sensor nor a cam sensor. I then plugged in my diagnostic machine and I got the following codes : IMMO code "01176 - KEY NOT AUTHORISED" and another one, most likely related to the latter "P1570 ENGINE CONTROL MODULE DISABLED" another one for instrument cluster "00771 fuel level sensor open or short circuit to B+". The last one is "01050 glow plug monitoring malfunction in basic setting" (the car runs on petrol so I do not know whats up with that, could be a short. Another important piece of info in this saga is that the car is blowing fuse no. 28 for (speedometer sensor device, automatic engine locking device). Now the short will be traced on tomorrow but I think the cause of the problem is obvious but I want to be dead sure- I think this short is the cause of all problems. The scan tool can communicate with the ECU and immo modules and the instrument cluster with no issues. Sorry for the long post but I want to provide the most info. Attached are the screenshots, please help me with the immo codes as well as VW was using codes to indicate the status of certain components. CAN ANYONE INTERPRET THE IMMO CODE NUMBERS FOR ME AS I AM DESPERATRLY LOOKING FOR THE SERVICE MANUAL OF THE SAME CAR PLEASE????!!! : Your informed inputs are highly welcomed mates. It is a bit urgent.

I see even lower voltage than you, 1.2V with a needle poked into the back of the connector along with blue wire. Demonstrates that the current limiting resistors are doing their thing (and so dropping most of the voltage) and that the resistance of the field coil is low.

Access isn't too bad on my Polo, Will probably just stab the blue wire with a needle to get the connected/ignition-on voltage. Wish you were closer, I've probably got a spare alt you could have tried.

Yep. On these the connection to the battery light/LED is indirect, data transmitted to clocks module as opposed to a physical wire, but same effect.

Yep, I think it is. Theory (the origin and current limiting resistors in the onboard supply control unit) and practice seem to agree pretty well. 50mA ought to be enough to kickstart it; but isn't on your alternator for some reason. I can try the 'in series' (your 41mA) measurement or just check what volts I see at the blue wire with it connected later on, or tomorrow lunchtime, for further comparisons. When the alternator is charging, the voltage at the blue wire follows that of the B+ output terminal, I seem to remember.

You mean the terminal/pin the blue wire normally goes to?

Yeah, I get 53.5mA blue wire to earth with ignition-on battery voltage showing at a rather low 12.0V.

I would say that exonerates the supply and wiring side of it, leaving an oddity with the alternator itself. The extra current available when you connected direct from battery positive probably overcame the problem. Now that you have current meter, see what current you get if you measure that path instead (battery positive to pin where blue wire would go on alternator). I'll just pop out and do the short-to-earth measurement on my Polo as a comparison. Can't remember if I ever did that or reported the result above anywhere?

Depends on the state of the bush(es), I'd say.

Aren't you going to have either firewall or engine in the way of a 32mm open-ended spanner? Sure it's not excessive movement in a wishbone bush?

At that price I would suggest that before ordering anything you check for broken wires in the door bellows, which seems to be incredibly common on the mk2; unless you've already done this?

Item 18, two variants, unheated and heated. Unheated will have no electrical connection, if you aren't sure which you have. LLLParts

Pressure when cold suggests something is being added to the cooling system during running. Combustion gases are the obvious candidate. If there is such a leak, it will get worse, so the next sniff test may be less reassuring. Do the coolant hoses feel very solid if checked at idle after a run where the car is fully up to temperature?

If you can get sufficient access without risk of shorting, try measuring charging voltage right at the alternator; positive probe on output stud, negative probe on alternator body. I'm thinking your 'at idle' numbers for charge voltage are very low (do those numbers rise much if you rev to say 2000rpm?). On a car without start/stop I would expect to see nearer 14.5V unloaded, and not dipping much with the loads mentioned. Testing at the alternator may reveal bad connections/cables if the numbers are much higher there.

NSR window issue is likely to be a broken wire rather than anything more systemic, I think. Look in the front door bellows on that side first, unless both front and rear NS doors get equal use.

Yes that was going to be my suggestion. Precise measurement not needed so any meter at all will do

Do you have a dc current range on your multimeter?