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Breezy_Pete

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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete

  1. 24, 26-30 inc, 32, 38, 39, 41, 44, 46, 48 and 49 are all listed as terminal 30 (permanent live).
  2. Engine speed sensor is here, I think:
  3. If it is an important buying criterion you probably wouldn't want to get involved in the palaver of a retrofit, but it is possible to convert 'vanilla' Central Locking to radio remote C/L with all OEM bits and pieces, as described here: https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/204921-guide-how-to-install-oem-remote-central-locking-in-a-polo-9n-with-original-parts/
  4. The year in the VIN is the Model Year (MY) which isn't the same as calendar year, in a similar way to how magazines always seem to be a month ahead of reality. Model year - Wikipedia
  5. I think you'll find the 12V feed is the same volour on all four, and comes from a fuse rather than the ECU. The wire colour of the switched return from each injector will be the same at injector connector and engine ECU as it's a direct run. Will confirm in a few minutes, with ECU pin number.
  6. There's a communication wire that goes (only) from front right to rear right door modules, which I think may be broken. It connects pin 10 of the 20-way connector at each module, via pin 19 of each 28-way door disconnect. Ideally you'd disconnect that 20-way at each of the right side door modules, and check continuity from pin 10 of one to pin 10 of the other.
  7. You can test the solenoid part of the valve using the 'output tests' option while connected to engine ECU. Not sure on best strategy for problem solving beyond that, as I've not had personal experience of it. Lots of threads on here with that fault code over the years though, I believe.
  8. There's supposed to be a tiny air filter on the end, and that's the only place it goes. Item 30 here https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2001-225/1/133-133035/
  9. One of those boa strap wrenches normally used on oil filters might help if you can't get a hand fully round the cap.
  10. Do you mean the door card, when you say door panel? The motor module doesn't need disconnecting to take that off, I don't think?
  11. One module per window. Sounds like you've already proved that idea wrong, sadly.
  12. Could be worth testing the effect of disconnecting the window motor module to see if that makes the fault disappear. I think the microswitch output wire goes there, as well as to the vehicle voltage control module, so if it was getting shorted to earth by a fault at the window motor module, it would appear the same as door being permanently open.
  13. Maybe the microswitch is mechanically stuck? Have you tried hitting the door hard near the lock to see if it will unstick?
  14. In your photo of the BCM on Thursday morning, the connector pins don't appear to be very clean. I expect it is just the light/contrast/reflection of the picture, as you say in words that 'it looks really really clean'. Do have any other photos that maybe show connector pins more closely?
  15. New pic. The hose has all the expected markings, SAE? number etc. I seem to remember
  16. I have had a very young fuel hose look very old and dodgy, though on a petrol car. It was sourced at a local motor factors under two years ago during an engine change, when I couldn't get the original to reseal at one end. I spotted it looking cracked and horrible this summer, only 18 months after it was fitted. Will nip out and get fresh piccies to compare with ones taken then. I 'kinda' convinced myself that it was just the outer layer, and that it wasn't in any great danger of leaking. Pic from summer:
  17. I doubt it will, but bear in mind the possibility.
  18. I can VCDS it if useful. Try sep's idea first though.
  19. Hi @gho, I'm just south of Oxford and would be happy to have a go at sorting this for you. I will send you a private message with a contact number and a few questions about the car. 🙂
  20. 68 and 70Ah batteries will be indistinguishable in practice.
  21. It's not the clearest post, but he does mention thermostat as one of the things already changed. Is this a DSG gearbox car?
  22. If you didn't have the correct tooling you'd have to make something equivalent, that could get in behind the hub and correctly push on the outer of the bearing behind it. Have you seen the correct tooling in action on YouTube?

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