Breezy_Pete

Read the linked article here and make up your own mind if it's worth coding. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499676-battery-causing-various-errors/?do=findComment&comment=5607340

Sounds like good money for scrap, I'd keep it simple and take that.

Can't see an equivalent on mk3. There may be a part number on the one you do have? Unlikely to be available from anywhere except a Skoda dealer, so maybe just contact one?

Oh, sorry, I don't know much about recent models. See if the equivalent part on the last mk3 looks the same?

You forgot yourself. 🤣

Body section of ETKA, start here https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB

Power steering fluid will be tricky. Your car has electromechanical steering, not electro-hydraulic.

It's specifically mentioned in the abstract of the article you linked. Yes you could say that whatever paint is used the same contact may remove it, but surely less so, the better the paint job and the better the paint? I'm certain that many modern springs show rust far quicker than pre-millenium ones, not just in obvious contact zones. ...phosphate layer and painting around the contact zone were worn out due to contact and friction and resulted in corrosion and corrosion pits induced local stress concentration.

Depends how old the Octy is. The newer it is, the shorter the time, probably. 😁

I'd be trying a cheap secondhand one from ebay, as these things are usually pretty reliable. This one for example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364029742427?epid=652374197&hash=item54c1dd0d5b:g:LQwAAOSwgs1jWof6&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoNn2k8OmCPO2x9Mf%2FD%2F3q1LE%2BltUMQDZ3dzq9CSvc5xJEEfg%2F3hiCUvtq%2BJF5wSLSuQwWydY8NpI3ugGqD%2FnNuBmWvU49tob6473s7S9LWjNwupQpz91JIsgDaFR7gq%2BwkTBujE7CAa9%2BNRy8xX5RJOGJ%2BX8leBPbvyw0e6L1gs6h2iDawM%2FI%2FMGryZokyL9E9%2F%2FHhe%2B8lPEtdyUeUahYu8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6KP9f6DYQ

Also important to have the car dead level front-to-back and side-to-side. How much came out when you drained it?

You probably realise this, but it will have to come from a car with steering wheel on the same side as yours, and probably from one with same engine type.

X relay switches off various current/power consumers that might be switched on during starter motor operation, to maximise energy availability for the starter.

I don't think it matters what order you undo the fasteners, but definitely have some assistants to stabilise it once the hinge is removed, while you focus on fitting the new one.

Where did you take it for the MOT? Seems no harm in naming and shaming if you don't plan to try to get them to rectify anything?

Rather common actually. Often just half a coil or less at the bottom, or most commonly at the top, I think. Fractured means broken anyway. But I'm right with you on the struts being cocked up.

OK, no need to shout. Did you get any pics? Some Skoda looms can feature a lot of what just looks like standard black insulation tape e.g. from an ebay listing picked just now:

OK, fair enough, just be aware that there's likely to a raised area of corrosion all around where the lower washer of the banjo bolt sits on the caliper. If removed and replaced straddling any of this raised area, tha washer will struggle to seal.

With the brake hose, you may be able to detach the caliper and send it round, to avoid opening the hydraulics, not sure.

I expect they bent/brutalised that tab to get the bolt through it. Don't despair, just fix each issue one by one. 🙂

The tape may well have been original. Well done for fixing. Had a look at other side yet?

Match the 6q0909606 and fit. Job done.

I'm sure you're right. What shocking workmanship. ☹️

Video is v. helpful. 🙂 Footwell wetness and corrosion/shorting local to the sensor seems much more probable than condensation getting to airbag ECU area, I think.

Yellow wire on pin 1 from pin 70 of airbag ECU conn, black wire on pin 2 merges with various other earths behind dashboard allegedly.