Breezy_Pete

On a recent car with battery management module it's a bad idea to remove batteries to charge them, because that added charge will confuse the system by being unaccounted for.

Measure voltage directly at the alternator with engine running. Red meter probe on output connection, black meter probe on alternator body.

You did release the carbon brushes as you installed the new regulator? if you did, my next suspicion would be a breakage or bad contact of that green wire.

These two pages show which engine codes each cam suits: Camshaft EngineTeam 038109101AH (skoda-parts.com) Camshaft (camshaft) 1.9TDI EngineTeam 038109101R (skoda-parts.com)

This is what they say in the bit I cropped out of the previous screenshot in order to get the rest of the text in. Probably does have height advantage too, I guess.

Gravity, oil flow and big old drain holes from head to sump.

DOHC. This is from an SSP for a very different engine, but I expect the arrangement is about the same mechanically:

Ah! good spot.

@Crasher, please let us know where it came from; it sounds as though you have seen this happen before? Roller rocker arms have needle bearings I think, but this maybe looks too big to be one of those? @Pmnr121 could you take a pic with it sitting along a ruler?

Bulb tell me the unit rate is going up 20% and the standing charge by a penny a day. If the government give me £67 a month for the next six months I'm better off than I was, cos that's much more than 20% of what I'm currently paying. This makes no sense.

I don't know what it is, but I suspect the engine needs it. Would advise not driving it until identified/replaced.

I don't really like that sort of bodgy wiring into fuse terminals, Difficult to see what's been done there cos of the red tape, but fuse 26 is the one for rear wiper. That is usually an ignition switched supply. People generally use these slightly less bodgy breakout fuseholders for such additions. You retain the original fuse for the original consumer and add another suitable for the added item(s). There may not be sufficient headroom to get the fusebox cover back on though, others with mk2s may be able to comment.

9mm 12-point socket is what you need for the sensor screw, I think. Not sure whether a deep-reach or normal one is better, never done it.

Black/blue feed, brown/red earth.

Are the reverse lights working? Will look at wiring for a 2012 mk2 now.

Sounds a lot like a sticking heater flap motor, V68. VCDS scan of the HVAC module will probably show a confirmation fault code. VCDS Lite, the freeware version is adequate when used with a suitable cheap cable.

All sorted then. Gotta be something else worth spending that money on, surely?

Any skoda dealer should be able to get one if you're determined not to attempt to mend what you have. Why are you not trying to get the spark-plug-changing dealer to fix it for free? Seems almost undeniable that they broke it?

Is this what yours looks like? 03C103474AD VENT HOSE New genuine part | Deutsche Parts (deutsche-parts.co.uk)

Diagrams in ETKA are often mildly misleading/overgeneralised, if that's what you're looking at?

A bit of warm air might be all you need to get the remnants of the old grommet out? £6.41 plus a bit of postage from lll, or about the same from a Skoda dealer for the grommet, gotta be worth trying, no? Whole item 8 assembly appears to be £82 by comparison.

Look about 3/4 of the way down this page And this chain is not simple, but from VAGa - Skoda Fabia RS, 1.4 liters., 2012 on drive2

Hmm, I wonder if the broken off piece is part of an adaptor, the rest having hit the road or undertray. The parts diagram refers to an 8A item that isn't listed in the table, but might be the last '8' - 03c103638b One of the google images for that number could possibly be some of what's stuck in yours.

Actually, looking at your second image, it appears that the hose is OK, but the plastic nipple it attaches to has broken off inside it? What is/was that nipple part of?

Part of item 8 here, it seems LLLParts