Breezy_Pete

Trouble often is that the relevant PR code isn't on the sticker, especially front brakes.

VAG Codes (vag-codes.info) Link within link https://vag-codes.info/vag-option-codes A lot of the definitions are too vague to be useful alone,, but in the context of the pages of ETKA, they can pin down what's what via the 'data model' column where they appear.

If someone's talking about a resting voltage above 13V they are most likely dealing with an AGM battery, something that mk1 Fabias do not have. 1st chart is standard lead acid, 2nd as titled, AGM. Not sure if EFB is different again, but probably nearer AGM than conventional. Temperature has a small effect too, one or two charts available might have multiple columns showing this.

I'd be focussing on the crank sensor given those very healthy voltages. No harm in checking earths though, the one from starter motor to inner side of chassis leg is just as important as the main one from battery to chassis when it comes to cranking the engine. The starter end of it is quite exposed and subject to big temperature swings, so a good one to clean up. For crank sensor, check wiring isn't damaged near its connector, and check for water ingress inside connector before spending on replacement. You may need a tool you don't have, and access isn't totally straightforward, see here: '06 Fabia 1.9 vrs, crankshaft sensor fixing bolt. - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA

If/when you repatriate the real fuel temp sensor, try to make sure it has the o-ring it originally had, not one that may have come with the ECP sensor. They may well be different materials for resistance to the different fluids.

@Jamie_B have you read the helpful private message that might have come from another member?

If you follow the flexible hose from your red circle up to the metal ones that cross the engine, you'll see it's the one nearest the front of the car and goes to the fuel filter, not the expansion tank.

Check the wire colours going into the connector, I can compare with wiring info. Photo of old sensor?

Unintended comic mis-spelling of dealerships!

They aren't massively expensive to buy new, genuine, so that might be the way to get an intact/complete/accurate pattern, albeit one that would need scanning somehow. There looks to be two different part numbers 5Q0615311D, or same with G at the end instead. I expect they are different to go with different disc sizes but not sure. There's also left/right part number diffs obviously, replace the last 1 with a 2 for RHS. e.g. Audi/Volkswagen Front Brake Disc Protection Plate Left N/S - Genuine Audi/Volkswagen 5Q0615311G - LLLParts approx £14 plus postage. This outlet tends to reflect RRP at dearerships reasonably closely. This page contains all the brake system info for 2015 octy LLLParts

Can you give an example of where this code was related to steering angle sensor. A brief googling I did just kept saying engine speed/crank sensor. That would make sense in the context of change in starting behaviour. For the charging system measure battery voltage before and after starting engine. Check to see if the battery light comes on with ignition. Report back with these two numbers and a yes/no please.

Bear in mind that the clutch release bearing is not rotating at any time except when the clutch pedal is fully depressed and the drive to the gearbox disengaged. In other words, if it was that, I'd expect you to only hear the noise when the clutch pedal was down, or on the way down/up. If I'm understanding your post correctly, your scenario is the opposite. More likely the bearing cassette at the far end of the gearbox I think, have a look at this and see if you recognise anything noise-wise:

Nice one. Looks like that stiff bit of convoluted conduit intended to protect those wires has had exactly the opposite effect at the point they exit from it!

@JamieB Judging by the location, that might be the fuel temperature sensor you've circled in the photo above?? Hope it's not in the bin, and your collection day today...

Pick a year, pick the 1Z version, keep digging down til you get where you need to be: LLLParts

Do you still have the sensor you took out of that location, and if so does it have a part number on it anywhere? What colours are the wires going to the connector? Seems like that might be neither of g62/g83.

BMN, on the autoscan. 🙂

If only I knew whether that's G62 or the G83 radiator outlet temp sensor. I think the latter would normally be nearer the rad, but don't know on your engine.

Whereabouts was the sensor you changed, near radiator or on engine?

I don't have the equivalent document for mk2, but for mk1 Fabia there are two different types of bolt used M8 or M10 depending on engine I think. Each has its own tightening info: 2 - Screw ❑ replace after each removal ❑ initially tighten to 10 Nm, subsequently tighten crosswise to final torque: M10 screw: 50 Nm + 45° M8 screw: 20 Nm + 180° There are more variations still if the car has the 'tripod' design inner CV, not sure which engines/gearboxes use those? Have you already refitted these screws, or not? What size thread are they?

Skoda workshop manual will say replace, and it's certainly best practice, but you'll probably be OK reusing if none are damaged. What torque plus angle numbers are you going by?

Cold Cranking Amps, measured versus specced.

Nice work. Good spot on the E33, I was hoping someone would find out or know what the official part was rated. Pretty sure the next one down in voltage would do too e.g. STMicroelectronics 1.5KE30CA, Bi-Directional TVS Diode, 1500W, 2-Pin DO-201 | RS Components (rs-online.com)

It'll be fine to get to somewhere to do a brief pressure bleed on each side.

Different volumes of combustion chambers in their respective heads?