Breezy_Pete

Fan, not fans, why do so many people use the plural?

Looks to me like this flap of metal must bend upwards off the 'pip' of the other half that's in that hole, and probably a symmetrically opposite one on the other side, then the whole thing falls apart??

Yes.

You don't, look again at where they are connected. Perhaps I should have said four non-zero speeds? 😆

Close, but three, as there are four speeds in total (unless that's another mk3 cost saving):

Blue/green wire from pin 14 of the 28-way at the door disconnect shorting to chassis ground would do this, probably.

Photos may be useful for others if you can take a few as you go. 🙂

Dunno how it comes apart. Hopefully by experiment on that one you can discover how to do it non-destructively and then do yours.

Considering that earlier fan designs with just a single wirewound resistor inside the housing have proved unreliable, this seems like a very bold design idea. Or strategic?

No. There are no pressure sensors, just pressure switches. All these do is change from non-conducting to conducting at their respective pressure thresholds; these changes being monitored by the warning system circuit. There's nothing that actually reads a pressure value.

Have a look through these listings to see if any seem compatible skoda door lock barrel repair kit: Search Result | eBay

Set yourself up with VCDS lite (free download from ross-tech.com) and a suitable kkl cable (cheap) then you can probably see from the compressor shutoff code in HVAC module measuring blocks what is inhibiting the cooling. Here are the Compressor Shut off codes, not sure if universal across all models, but quite possibly: (Check your repair manual or Measuring Value Block pop-up) - 0 = Compressor ON - 1 = Compressor OFF: Refrigerant Pressure too high (> 32 bar) - 2 = compressor OFF: Basic setting not performed - 3 = Compressor OFF: Refrigerant Pressure too low (< 2.0 bar) - 5 = Compressor OFF: Engine Start Detection - 6 = Compressor OFF: ECON Mode active - 7 = Compressor OFF: A/C System / FAN OFF - 8 = Compressor OFF: Outside Temperature too low (< 3.0 °C) - 10 = Compressor OFF: Vehicle System Voltage too low (< 10.1 V) - 11 = Compressor OFF: Engine Temperature too high (> 118 °C) - 12 = Compressor OFF: Shut-Off requested by Engine Control - 13 = Compressor OFF: Vehicle System Voltage too high (> 17 V) - 14 = Compressor OFF: Evaporator Temperature too low - 16 = Compressor OFF: Compressor Activation faulty - 17 = Compressor OFF: No or implausible Signal Pressure Sensor - 18 = Compressor OFF: Vehicle Speed Shut-Off - 19 = Compressor OFF: Shut-Off requested by Central Electronics Control (Load Management) Not sure what you mean when you write ECM? Engine ECU? That doesn't control the A/C.

Good plan that.

Alternators on recent cars with start/stop are harder to check functionally, as they have their output voltage controlled by the battery management module, rather than locally. So the voltage may vary considerably depending on how much juice the 'management' is requesting from one minute to the next. Most likely the battery is feeling its age.

Sounds like they should sort it for you, possibly even free of charge.

To fit a new one, the water pump either has to come off again, which would be a pain I imagine, or I think the thermostat housing has to come off, which in turn has an o-ring sealing it to the engine head (not shown on that diagram) which would then need replacing.

If the waterpump o-ring (item 23 in diagram) was not renewed/replaced when the new water pump was fitted, I'd say it's almost certainly that one that's leaking.

All the relevant parts/part numbers are shown here: coolant pump; coolant hoses and pipes; reservoir - Roomster(RO) [EUROPA 2009 year] (7zap.com) (view on computer, not phone to see all info). It seems the flexible pipe connection is from the expansion tank.

Very much more likely to be one or other of these coolant pipe/hose joints: O-ring seal in left hand circle between thermostat housing and plastic coolant pipe, flexible hose connection to the right of middle, and another o-ring seal on the far end of the rigid pipe into the water pump. If the thermostat housing has never been off, I think my top suspect would be the middle one, the connection to a flexible hose, not too sure where that goes to. A USB inspection camera may get in there and tell you exactly where it's originating.

I started to do this the other day, but it was tedious, and I decided it to be a waste of time as the part number of these servo hoses is printed clearly along the rigid plastic sections. For RHD cars the base part number will be 6Q2 612 041 and then there will be a letter or pair of letters after it. For LHD cars the third character is 1 instead of 2. These suffix letters are what differentiates the hose designs that suit the different engines. If you don't match these letters, you're buying the wrong hose. I doubt these are available in new condition anywhere other than VW group dealerships (e.g. Skoda) or TPS, both of whom will want to check part identity against your VIN/ reg number anyway, so no real need to tell them the part number. Edit: If you still want to know the right part number for your car, message me with the VIN as I can now look up current part numbers and retail price; but only with VIN.

New Old Stock.

It's so that if there are two regular drivers of significantly different height, as is often the case, both mirrors can be adjusted rapidly to suit the two viewpoints.

Little point in guessing, get it scanned.

Try swapping wheels/tyres between front and rear.

The immobiliser chip is in the physical key end of the fob, not the RF electronics bit, swap in a new electronics bit, keeping the rest. (From memory, of VW/Polo style fob, can't remember what Fabia one is like offhand)