Breezy_Pete

It appears to refer to a coolant pump, judging by this search result (post #124). VCDS - How To Guides - MK3 Leon 5F | SEATCUPRA.NET I'd say it will be safe to drive.

Check for 12V at the black/blue wire going into the 6-way connector at the window motor when ignition is on. If present, that confirms fuse and wire. Mirror switch shares same feed from fuse.

Check cabin fuse 11, it may well be blown.

Do you have the emissions printout from the test? There are a few ways it can be 'only just OK', it might be useful to know (all) the actual numbers.

Check in between the pleats to make sure they're not full of dust, but first impression is that's not too old/blocked.

You'll know when they need replacing, because one will perforate and start to leak. Until then, you're wasting your time and money, I think. Many other things may get in the way of the car's eternity before that.

Ross-Tech: VCDS-Lite Download kkl cable: Search Result | eBay Anything else I can do for you today. 😘

Have you checked cabin fuse number 7 (5 Amp)? And strip fuse number 5 (50 amp) above the battery? For the price of about 10 litres of diesel you could equip yourself with the necessary KKL cable and download freeware VCDS Lite, if you have a windows laptop.

It is wideband on a 2005 BKY. I'm not sure if it's possible for the following to be relevant, but when was the condition of the engine air filter last checked?

What fault code?

I guess a Karoq is quite heavy? Being modern and high?

I'm sure you meant to type 10 miles per litre there, which is 16km.

If the car has central locking, I think the part number you need is 5J0 839 016. Lots of cross referenced pattern parts here: 5J0 839 016 Door lock OEM VW, AUDI, SKODA, SEAT (autodoc.co.uk) Maybe pick your favourite from amongst those, copy that manufacturers part number into ebay and see what comes up from within UK.

I'm not sure that your car will have a G260 sensor either from a quick glance at parts info.

Gonna take a wild stab in the dark that your car doesn't have electric height adjustable rear seats, therefore they've made a mistake. Check with them again whether they meant to say G260, or N280.

Don't block the entry point where it goes into the airbox though. Can't remember the arrangement on the MPI, but on airboxes that have a thermostat for incoming air source, they tend to default to 'all warm' if/when that thermostat fails. If you block that entry you'll find the car goes even worse!

Solenoid valve N280 maybe?, not sensor G280 as there's no such thing to the best of my knowledge. Check wiring to it as a first step. The only wires that go to the compressor. No configuring required as far as I know, but it does require the refrigerant to be extracted before it can be changed.

You don't need it. It's just a warm air feed to the airbox, no?

There's a fella on this very forum who does some refurbs I seem to remember. In the context of cracked housings. Don't have time to search out a name right now, but he sounded like he'd done a few successfully.

Is it this one? From here: LLLParts

That doesn't sound helpful, I would suggest ripping all the tape off and just using cable ties every 100mm or so to hold the cabling together. Find and inspect that intermediate connection, it may be that water has run along wires and into the connector housings.

Pinout is as follows. 1 - 66 2 - 30 3 - 17 4 - 83 A black intermediate 4-way connector is shown, where the wires from pins 1 and 2 of the sensor connector both change colours (yellow to red/grey, and brown to brown/grey respectively); have you found and inspected that plug/socket connection, it's mounted on gearbox apparently. I would expect the intake air temperature sensor (output on pin 2) to be the bottom half of a potential divider, so with sensor disconnected it would naturally float up to the voltage rail supplying the divider. Not sure if the same applies to the output of the pressure sensor part on pin 4, but something similar may well apply, like a pull-up resistor as mentioned by @J.R.

Something is wrong with your car. 9km per litre is about 11 litres per 100km. You're a little worse than the worst of the 335 Karoqs with same engine reported there.

Litres per 100km I would imagine. Did you see the average, minimum and maximum info towards the bottom of the page.

https://www.spritmonitor.de/en/overview/45-Skoda/1636-Karoq.html?fueltype=2&vehicletype=1&power_s=150&power_e=150&powerunit=2