Breezy_Pete

Not really; using start/stop seems very likely to shorten a battery's life compared to not doing so.

Fuel pump is in the tank, beneath the rear seats, so unlikely. Remove the rear seat bases and see if the noise gets louder? Aircon doesn't normally work unless cabin fan is on? Is yours the version with an LCD screen, or not?

No, don't worry.

Thing is, if you just replace a battery at the first sign of any electrical trouble, you have to pay for the battery, and possibly coding the control systems to it. Then you might find a few weeks later that there is a charging system fault, a parasitic current drain, or another fault such as the one you mentioned Dave, none of which will have been improved at all by the battery swap. So you'll end up spending more than necessary, and potentially even immediately degrading the new battery, depending on the nature of the problem.

You might be surprised if you monitor the alternator output voltage; recent cars with start/stop have a different charging strategy which includes deliberately keeping the battery a little below fully charged. You may see lower voltage than you expect much of the time. It's better for fuel economy than it is for battery lifetime. If you have a charger, use it to help your diagnosis, rather than jumping to possibly premature conclusions.

Good idea that I don't think has any chance of happening officially. Anyone can do it by choice though, obviously.

Charge it more and see if the faults stop showing. I guess you meant to type 12,1 and 12,36 V.

Good spot Lee. Not the same as what I was showing, but definitely appear to be relevant.

I've not seen any posts on here about them corroding. None that I recall. Just tried a search within mk2 fab forum for the phrase "rusty brake pipe" with no search results.

Unless some bugger quotes them... I think you may have misunderstood who I was talking to nta16.

Does this help? LLLParts

Stick him on your ignore list, it'll be better for both of you.

Well there are some glaringly obvious difference between top and bottom views of that (one, right side) ebay lock, arrowed in pink on one image, but it's the lock ring 'catching bit' details that are the problem I think. If it were symmetrical, both views would have their yellow highlighted 'arrow' features pointing towards the front of the vehicle (green arrows on each view) but they don't here, forwards in left image, rearwards in right. So I reckon that's why the locking ring is failing to release, because these features are facing the wrong way on both sides of the car, with locks swapped across.

It's this bit that interacts with the locking ring within the door, if I remember right:

I agree that it would be interesting. First thing to note Stewart is that they can be buggers to get out even when in the original positions, I had a right struggle with the drivers side one on the missus's car not long back. As far as I know/remember, it had never been removed before so it may be that a bit of corrosion on the outside of the casting interferes with the retaining ring arrangement enough to cause it to not release as designed. One of Hatboy Harvey's vids shows him having a bit of a wrestling match with one from the outside. This page shows handedness, but not sure exactly why: LLLParts This image pinched from the thread you linked earlier Keith shows that at least one of the raw casting parts appear to be ambivalent/ambidextrous before they are assembled (alternate left/right part numbers both on it): Some nice clear photos in this ebay listing of a 6Y0989168E right side one here: Skoda Replacement Door Lock + 2 Keys - 6Y0898168E **Genuine New Skoda OEM Part** | eBay If anyone fancies staring at them for long enough to spot a difference between topside and bottomside view?? I'm not seeing one straight away, but my eyes are old.

Easy solution; put the correct bulbs back in.

Oh no, that's annoying. Better than a lot of other outcomes though, I guess.

You'll be able to wrestle them out from inside, I expect, but it'll likely bust bits of the inner handle/lock support framework so be prepared with known good spares I suggest. Big job, luckily not too hampered by rivetted on carriers. I'd cross the bridge if you ever come to it; it would be much easier to open the one locked door from inside with a cunning trick like the one described here: https://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/threads/9n3-doorlocks.40502/

CHFA is a 6-valver, 12-valve is 70bhp in mk2s. Might last some time, might not. It would have to be very cheap to be worth a gamble I reckon.

Harvey has done a few in-depth videos of various aspects of the door locks, but if both are currently in and working, why do you need to remove them? HatBoyHarvey - YouTube

The car looks like a right chav-wagon; sticker city. The engine looks like a bewildering, unfamiliar mess of stuff crammed in a space not really big enough for it. 😁 Cars are worthless without engines that work. 😋 Youtube seems to have the answers; apparently Subaru recommend lifting the engine up a bit off its mounts, but it's not really necessary with the right tool options.

I'd say they are right, but being too literal, not thinking about it quite enough. Your photo shows two pipes connected to it, as does ETKA: LLLParts Just one of them is short and open-ended.

I think if I read this in the morning I'll probably understand it: https://www.tiepie-automotive.com/en/articles/abs-sensor-hall

Still beyond me.

Beyond me, but looks like they maybe generate a voltage?