Breezy_Pete

That's me completely baffled by what those wires do then, and no idea how to fix your window. Sorry! Are you certain all the other wires are intact, and power is getting to the end of the fat wires at the motor module?

Ah, try the passenger side mirror adjustment. I guess you meant to write that there is no click or clunk other than the switch sound?

Yeah, I think that's 12 and 10. I'll have to check circuits again, but double check that the mirror tilts and pans, if you see what I mean. When you command the window up or down is there any click/clunk despite lack of movement? Try to listen up close to the motor module.

I don't have a pic of the numbering, but described it a couple of posts above ^

10 and 12? If so they are both for mirror adjustment, not windows, and 0.35mm² in the factory loom. So 0.5 will be fine.

Which pin numbers do these wires go to on the 28-way connector? I think the column nearest the back of the car is numbered 1-15 top to bottom, the other column (with the bigger wires at the bottom) 16-28 top to bottom.

See if you can persuade surgeon or anaesthetist to take some pics during the op for some 'unusual engine bay pics' for the thread?? Best of luck buddy; but don't worry, they won't let you die on the table, too much paperwork!

Not a worry, me being overly pedantic more than anything. Still the confusing issue of why the supersedence path highlighted by @MicMac goes through 1K8951605B and stops at 1K0951605C, but ETKA for this car shows the opposite path forwards in time! Beats the hell out of me. 😁

Also test the resistance between the sensor pins during your checking, just in case it has failed by leaking into its insides, shorting out wires/pins. Can be tricky to get meter probes in there to make reliable contact without touching each other.

Do you still have the old/original loom?

No, you didn't, that's a 1K0! Again, supersersed by 1k8...A, then 1k8...B, but then 1K0...C Excellent choice. 🙂

Dunno, but if anyone can find 1K8 951 605C to buy anywhere I'll be surprised. For cah1982's car any of the part numbers shown in the skoda-parts.com link I posted should work, so best to buy one of those, the cheapest they can find.

Are you 100% sure the connector going to the lock module is fully clicked into place?

What was the part number of the new loom? Same as the old one?

It's the third character I'm trying to draw attention to, 0 in one case 8 in t'other. Different base part numbers.

Oh yeah, diesel all the way if you care about CO2. 'cos they go a chunk further per litre, more than outweighing the extra CO2 per litre . That 200/120 ratio sounds wildly improbable though, on the face of it. Not so much if NOx is your 'thing'.

What's not uncommon, you've lost me? I'd trust crowd-sourced real-world longterm data much more than whatcar in a lab/dyno/test track/whatever.

Yeah, same as on lll, but different from what you posted in your first comment 4 hours ago ^^ What I'm saying is that I don't think 1K8951605C exists, nor ever has done.

.

Hmm.

Pin 1 at CTS, blue wire, terminates at ECU pin 112 Pin 2, brown, goes to ECU pin 104

If it's a short to ground don't you just need to check if the green wire has continuity to batt neg, which it shouldn't have? Can look up ecu pin number, but Haynes comment sounds un-fact-based I'd say.

Ah, I think you may have mis-read 7zap. According to the LLL link I posted above, the previous version to 1K8951605B was 1K0951605C.

Not really visible from anywhere but below when the engine is in the bay. You can probably touch it though, blind.

Does the latter definitely exist?