Breezy_Pete

An Australian Briskoda member made some logs of charging voltage and current, which may be of interest. The only such work I've come across. These were done on a car with start/stop switched off. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/488268-brake-energy-recovery-how-does-it-work/?do=findComment&comment=5483973

Sounds like a very favourable diagnosis from a profit point of view, but an incredibly improbable one in reality. More likely a single broken wire between drivers door and a-pillar, or something similarly trivial. Don't even attempt to order anything before getting some second opinions! Lock module replacement can be quite a faff, not sure how bad on a Superb3. What year is the car? If it's only just out of warranty, and 4x lock hardware is being described as in need of replacement, that sounds very much like a case of 'not fit for purpose' whether or not they are actually really broken, so ought to qualify for considerable if not total goodwill cover.

Yep, having a 12V feed is no use if the return path to 0V is broken. I don't have circuits for mk3 Fabia, but usually the high-level brake light is simply in parallel with the other two electrically.

I guess the A/C was already empty? If not it is now. You can rotate the front off the car without disconnecting the A/C pipework from the condenser so that you get the same access without opening the refrigerant circuit. Well done for fixing it all though!

With regard to fuses, the other way in which the owners manual can mislead is by having a single diagram that is supposed to assist owners of both LHD and RHD vehicles, where there is often an actual mirroring or rotation of the fuse panel between the two variants.

You need to be in the mk3 Fabia forum with a 2017 car, so I'll report it for a kind mod to move. Fuse tables have been known to be over-generic in owners manuals so I'd be inclined to check all/others, but only remove/check/refit one at a time, after taking a clear photo of all in original positions. Wiring at the point of entry into the tailgate would be a top candidate for breakage if all fuses are OK, but surely a 5 year-old car is too new to have suffered this?? That's assuming that the high level brake light is mounted on the tailgate, not the main body.

25Nm for oil filter lid, but not critical, as said above: Skoda Workshop Manuals > Fabia Mk2 > Drive unit > 1.2/47 kW; 1.2/51 kW Engine > Engine lubrication > Removing and installing parts of the lubrication system - Part 1 > Dismantling and assembling the oil filter (workshop-manuals.com)

It seems you asked the same question last December?

Extremely unlikely given that the beam pattern will be opposite, I would think.

The thing in the radiator is neither a thermostat, nor a temperature sensor. It's a thermoswitch. Terminology not crucial to function, but useful when trying to be understood clearly on a forum.

@Gizmo might be a possibility for a VCDS'ing if you two can communicate by PMs to come to a suitable arrangement?

Inlet mani was what I mentioned, and the inlet ports lead to the valves. The 1st video that JGrindel posted shows some cleaning done this way, as far as a quick glance showed me.

The battery symbol does extinguish once the engine is running, does it?

That fuse tray has a green cover over the individual fuse strips, obscuring visual inspection. Don't suppose it lifts/hinges up out of the way? I think it will be the far right one that is the PAS, so check for 12V on that crimp/nut that the thick red/black wire goes to, which will be absent if that fuse is completely bust now.

Unlikely that these would be able to interrogate/read the PAS module itself, VCDS/VCDS Lite is the type of thing you need. See if there's a member (or anyone you know) near you with either. On VCDS it's under the 'chassis' tab of module selection, module 44 'steering assist'. Or an autoscan will look at everything.

Check to see if the battery symbol lights up when you turn the ignition key to the position where lots of warning lights self-test. Report back with the result (yes/no), please.

Ah, maybe a lot of the soot comes via PCV system rather than EGR? Kinda glad I probably won't ever need to own a car with direct injection.

I thought recent engines did something more like 'exhaust gas retention' via valve timing tweakage, rather than recirculation. Exactly how a 1.0 TSI does it, I have no idea. Thinking about it some more, I guess even if it does done by retention, opening an inlet valve into a cylinder with deliberately retained exhaust gases is going to tend to make the back of the valve and exposed area of stem dirtier than if the exhaust stuff had moved on already.

Inlet manifold removal would give you some access, probably sufficient to remove gross contamination, but I would suggest that the 'at least every 50k miles' is a bad guestimate. There shouldn't be a lot of soot about in the intake of a modern petrol engine anyway. I doubt the 1.0tsi has external EGR?

Well played that man: Spare Wheel Attachment Screw Škoda 5G0803899 (skoda-parts.com)

Exactly.

Should be a lot cheaper than that from a dealership, or TPS if you can get served there. I use this site as a price guide, but not often for actually buying stuff cos their delivery can be waaaay slow, but see prices (which are close to RRP I think): Porsche / Volkswagen / Audi / Seat / Skoda Hex Collared Bolt N10640301 - LLLParts

That one does look like it has been there a fairly long time, but if it were original it would only have the two central up/down rubber webs, not that X-shape.

Ah, not original. I wouldn't expect any trouble from that design, so maybe look elsewhere for any noises you're hearing (or aren't you?) Bit hard to tell from that photo, is that a crack in the top left rubber web?

The one labelled 'front bolt, M12' in my image of console plus wishbone. Access to stick penetrating fluid in is shown in my image of the console with old style bush. Anticipating your next question, the part number is N 10640301.