Breezy_Pete

That corrosion looks like the cause of the problem, in my opinion. Do what you can to clean up the female contacts and then exclude water from the area however you can.

Maybe soon but... Your battery charging didn't result in a very full battery, as judged by the 12.4ish volts. It should be more like 12.6/12.7 when fully charged. I would've persisted more with the charging and put the charger back on it the next day to see if that brought it up more.

The single wire on your alternator is a LIN data connection, so I wouldn't expect its voltage to be a useful measurement. The charging voltage being a fixed 14.2 suggests that the alternator has defaulted to 'traditional' behaviour which may be consistent with a disconnection of this LIN data stream at either alternator or battery management module (near batt negative post). Such a disconnection will result in start/stop being inhibited. The overnight voltage suggests that the battery is pretty healthy though.

Yep

I'll just check if there's another fuse for the relay coil. Yep, fuse 8, 15 Amp one apparently. I think that one may cover a bunch of other stuff too though, so I think it would've affected other things if blown.

Chain.

Oil temp sensor is (usually) combined with oil level sensor in the sump. The temperature may just be lagging behind water temp more than usual due to cold ambient, and if you run for a bit longer it'll start showing? Minimum is 50°C to be shown, I believe. May not be enabled/displayed if the car is on fixed annual servicing though?

Do you have a multimeter? You say the fuse looks fine, but measuring battery voltage on both sides of it would be more convincing.

Get some pics as you go along tomorrow, may help others in future.

I think it may be like this: Skoda Workshop Manuals > Octavia Mk2 > Vehicle electrics > Electrical System > Wiring > Fuse holder and relay carrier > Removing and installing the E-box (relay and fuse carrier in the engine compartment) > Vehicles up to MY 05 (workshop-manuals.com) (first image).

Maybe just try removing the battery retaining screw, then see if you can move it towards the engine enough to get access under the ebox. I seem to remember the relay carrier may slide outwards, towards battery, but that may have been a different design.

0AQ, 0AR, or 0AS. See part numbers etc here (view on a non-phone screen to be sure of seeing all the info columns.) suspension; shock absorber (spring cyl.) - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com) I seem to remember that the actual bar diameter is a couple of mm bigger than the numbers shown corresponding to the three PR codes 0Ax. There's some squish of the rubber when fitting. View on a non-phone screen to be sure of seeing all the info columns.

See if there's a PR code on the build sticker that tells you the size. I'll post a link to a suitable etka page for the options in a minute.

Dunno, and don't know quite where to find out; but I'd guess it would be closer to 4 litres than 5. Let us know. Edit, found one site which reckons same engine in a Golf takes 4.3l. https://www.car.info/en-se/volkswagen/golf/golf-variant-15-tsi-act-m6-2018-16418778/specs

The battery is an electrically dumb device. All the talk about 'coding the battery' is misleading; you actually code/educate the car about the size/type of battery being installed. The battery has nothing within it that could contain any code.

Check fuse 24.

Suggestion: NEW GENUINE SEAT IBIZA CORDOBA 6L SKODA FABIA 1.9TDI ASZ OUTER CV GAITER BOOT | eBay May be out of date with respect to the use by date, possibly, packaging not shown. I'd buy it and use it at that price even if it was a few years out.

I'd just fit a new boot. The rusty surface of the CV is pretty irrelevant.

Assuming your car had a diesel engine, that'll be a fuel cooler. Should be fine to drive as long as it hasn't ruptured any of the fuel pipes, which I think you'd notice.

I've watched and enjoyed the first three already. Third one just now has finally motivated me to strip down the box that's been sitting outside my shed for a couple of years. Like the fella's attitude and delivery, is it you @AJR77?

It might be an option listed on the build data sticker on the boot floor. Can you post a photo of that sticker? The code may well start QN followed by a number. Handbooks tend to describe every option that might be fitted, usually with a * for non-standard items.

The engines I've looked at and linked you to on ETKA are CTHD and CTHE. Are you viewing this on a phone? Sometimes that results in some missing columns of information, important ones like the part codes!

If I'd known that technique on Friday when I did Polo's OSF I'd've just got the missis to sit on the front wing for a minute while I got some straps on it.

If you don't believe ETKA information about crankshafts and conrods being the same between CTHD and CTHE engines, I can't help you.

On those same two pages I linked above, the connecting rods are shown as the same part numbers too. So the same items. I did find an exhaust camshaft part number difference though, between CTHD and CTHE. I think what you've quoted there is talking about CAVE/CTHE differences. I think there should be a comma where the word 'of' is. " The modified version, CTHE "