Breezy_Pete

He told you.

What were the voltages?

I think all mk3 Superbs are beyond EA189 engine family aren't they?

Might be worth investing in a spare head, and get its exhaust valves and guides changed in that case. Might never need it, but might save a day or two of downtime if the need ever does arise. Must be able to pick up secondhand head for very little I'd think. Having a spare ignition coilpack (and a handheld code reader) in the glovebox is probably a good precaution too.

And look into how much the chain has elongated in about 100 000 miles time, probably not enough to matter.

Go for fully synthetic 502 00, e.g. Quantum Platinum 5W-40 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil - **5L CUBE** | eBay That's more than 1.5 changes-worth for £20 delivered. Not worth going cheaper or lower quality.

AdBlu is only for NOx reduction. MOT doesn't measure NOx.

Try Mike, but not sure whether it's still available genuine new. Genuine Parts Sponsor...Mikes back! - Site & Motoring News - BRISKODA Otherwise I'd take a punt on a secondhand ebay one, could be a whole lot cheaper e.g. Genuine Skoda Octavia Mk2 2009-2013 Headlight Switch 1Z0941431K 1Z0 941 431 K | eBay Then dismantle the old one and see how to fix it?

AXR or ATD engine code then. AXR looks to have EGR cooler, not sure if later ATDs did or not. Edit: looks like EGR system on ATD is same as ASZ, no cooler. AXR same as BLT, with cooler.

Wow; I just read the opening post in that linked thread. Glad I'm old enough to be unlikely to have to encounter such a massive steaming pile of horsepoo as what's referred to there.

Have a look at the pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold up to the bottom of the EGR valve, if it has any coolant pipes anywhere near it, it's cooled; if it doesn't it isn't.

Have a look at the sticker on your upper cambelt cover. Like this (except it defintiely won't be BBY):

vRS or non-vRS?

Second generation of mk1 vRS engine, as opposed to ASZ which is the first (and lacks an EGR cooler)

It's a poor design, the way the wiring goes straight across horizontally between A-pillar and door. Most cars have a vertical dogleg in the bellows so that the main action is a rotation/twist of the loom bundle rather than pure flex, and there's more slack that way too. If I had a mk2, I think I'd solder in some sections of much more flexible wire between plug pins and the loom inside the door.

Clean the area around it and gaffer tape it thoroughly. It's more about other road users and the 'death trail of slipperiness' than about whether the car makes it.

Can you get any more photos, it's really not clear to me from the earlier picture where on the sump this hole is. If you fill up with oil is it not just going to pour straight back out again?

So you can probably prove that no-one else has buggered about with the injectors better than they can prove that someone has. Talk to a solicitor, a respectable one not a 'no win no fee' bottom feeder.

Talk to that other specialist about what they did with the car, if you're not sure already. What was that visit to the specialist for? I suggest getting legal advice straight away if the other specialist can confidently deny having done anything to the injectors, and say that they will put that on record.

Almost certainly silicone sealant instead of a physical gasket. Tell me your engine code and I could check which sealant is specified.

The brushes and voltage regulator are probably all part of the same module.

Dunno how that trim comes off, looks almost like it might be held in just with the sort of trim clips that hold lots of the plastic trim bits on, if there are no screws visible anywhere underneath? Prise it off fairly forcefully if so. Resistor is between fan and pollen filter at the top of the air duct 'tween the two. LHD set-up shown so mirror image in RHD cars: fan; heater - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2008 year] (7zap.com)

Make sure any relay you use has a flyback diode in parallel with the coil; or add one. Voltage spikes when the relay is de-energised can cause trouble with whatever is driving the relay otherwise, especially if it is a semiconductor device.

Less EGR means less soot heading into the DPF, so should be good news.

Maintenance manual downloaded for a small fee from erWin skoda might be your best way of finding out honest info about intervals for the belt. UK dealerships just seem to make up info as they go along. Not sure where you are in the world, come to that.