Breezy_Pete

I had trouble getting the tensioner back on correctly after doing this job in the summer. I bought a second-hand replacement and after swapping that in, found that part of the original had cracked, leading to the misalignment. I may have cracked it when removing it, or when refitting, I'm not sure. It's awkward to refit, I remember that,

Yep. Pure and simple.

Depending on what you tow (weight and aero drag factors) you may well operate your engine much closer to maximum power for long periods of time, so this will impact the cooling system requirements. It probably used to be the case that cooling systems were engineered to have significant safety margins (over-engineering) but with 'value engineering' these margins will have been reduced. Cost saving for everyone that doesn't tow (and the manufacturer). Another factor is that any openings in the grille at the front of the car negatively impact the overall aero of the car, so are minimised to get good EU emissions figures. If you want to dump a lot of heat, you obviously want lots of fresh air getting to the radiator, so versions of grilles with a higher proportion of 'openness' may be specced for cars built with towing as an expectation.

They're not quite the same, look at the pics in these two ads: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/23007966284 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SKODA-FABIA-15-WHEEL-5JA601025L-6Jx15H2ET38-SILVER/114098604043?epid=26023825940&hash=item1a90ce880b:g:cwkAAOSwzoxeOUfX By the way, the third digit in your 6V0 part number should be a number zero, not a letter o. Might help your searching powers. Come to that, the sixth digit should be a 1 not a 2 also!

No problem. I guess you meant to type 6PK1113?

I don't know, sorry.

It would be a good thing to check.

That's consistent with combustion gases getting into the cooling system somewhere. How was the HG checked? Is it possible to bypass the EGR cooler (link together the two coolant hoses normally attached to it) to see if that causes a change of symptoms? Not sure how difficult it is to do this on your engine.

EGR cooler is a possibility. When you open the expansion tank cap with completely cold engine, is there a release of pressure?

I was meaning it can't cause the expansion tank symptom.

Coilpack fault can't cause that.

Check expansion tank for residual pressure several hours after the engine was last run.

The 'data model' column has lists of engine codes against each part number. Are you viewing on a phone where that column isn't visible? Third row from the bottom reads: 06J 260 849 D poly-v-belt 21,36X1117MM 1 CDAA,CDAB CCZA

The missus already offered to do the surgery for me; but what to use for anaesthesia?... Not sure what role if any that tendon has in keeping the shoulder in. I think the rotator cuff muscles do most of that? Didn't even do o'level biology so I'm fairly clueless.

Find your engine code (CCZA?) off the boot sticker and match up to one of the options in the 'with a/c' part of here: poly-v-belt; for vehicles with air condit. - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2010 year] (7zap.com)

Another youtube vid of a glorified rawlplug solution!

I seem to have done what's shown at about 4:05 in this video: Proximal rupture of long head tendon of the biceps. Physio confirmed just now and will refer me 'into the system' but it's not really clear in my head at all what I'll do once I'm in there. I'm not in any pain, and only mildly affected functionally; which was apparent immediately, 'cos I could carry on and finish the job. Bit of yellow bruising around/over the 'popeye bulge', now gone, and a bit of crampy pain if I do try to lift anything heavy. An ultrasound is apparently all that's required to confirm the diagnosis, which sounds more accessible than an MRI or whatever. Anyone been through this and opted for surgical reattachment? Quite common shoulder injury, I understand. Physio guestimated 3-4K for a private op, which made me gulp a little, but reckoned there wouldn't be any rush to get it done if I could persuade the NHS to do it. The silver lining is that my very long-standing tendinopathy seems to have disappeared with the disconnection. They apparently don't attempt to repair it to how it was if you get it operated on, they reattach it lower down. Cool vid of one of the options. Liking the engineering:

Needs a full scan with VCDS really, to make any progress. Try contacting the nearest few members on here, to see if they can help? VCDS owners MAP - Diagnostics & VCDS - BRISKODA

Yes, first item 1 here, only up to Sept 2009 https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/superb/sup/2013-632/9/971-972037/ Suffix AP one appears on this page https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/superb/sup/2013-632/9/971-972038/

Yes. Not least because you (or someone on your behalf) will be taking wheels off twice a year which allows easy inspection of wheels/tyres/brakes/suspension/CV boots etc. This is likely to benefit you in spotting problems earlier than might otherwise happen. The tyres will also last longer, roughly twice as long.

Change engine oil and filter very regularly. Make sure the cooling system (thermostat and engine temp sensor) and radiator fan (both speeds) are in full working order. Fix any coolant leaks (radiator thermoswitch likely). Buy a handheld scan tool that can read Skoda/VW fault codes. Buy a spare coilpack and practice changing them so you can do it easily at roadside. Carry scan tool and spare coilpack in the glovebox. Check spark plugs condition and gaps, and replace air filter with a new genuine one unless it looks new already (from both sides). Check brake servo vacuum hose for crack damage at the one-way valve over to the right of the firewall (as seen looking into engine bay from front bumper). Check PCV valve output hose connection at each end of the 'loop' for looseness/leaks/perishing. Repair as required. For daily driver reliability, that would be my plan. For performance increase, probably best to spend your money on good tyres and fixing any braking or suspension faults rather than trying to get more out of the engine; that's just likely to kill it faster. No more power is available above about 4400rpm on the 6-valve 1.2, so looking for it beyond there is futile.

I think you'll struggle with that. Vehicle speed signal will be a CAN message from the ABS module to any interested fellow modules. RPM similar from engine ecu, though you could maybe take it raw from the crank sensor, but not sure how. Throttle signal, not sure whether that would be throttle pedal or throttle position, water temp will again be a CAN message from engine ECU to other modules. I think things may have moved on too far since that was designed, unless I'm misunderstanding.

Haven't found an MSDS for G12 evo yet.

OK, so the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for the two say that both are principally still ethylene glycol (ethane-1,2-diol in modern chemical parlance), but G13 does have a proportion (10-30%) of glycerin too. G13: G12++: Interesting that the exact proportions of ingredients can be kept vague.

It was 2013 it came in according to here: Wolflubes - The Vital Lubricant - Blog - What you need to know about G13 antifreeze and coolant Seems ambiguous to me whether it ends up as 'glycerin based' or just starts out that way. Title fixed thanks to @DeanVRS20VT