Breezy_Pete

If you're sure it's a Denso system, and you tell me the VIN, I can tell you the matrix part number.

Looking at your pic, and the parts catalogue, it looks like those metal pipes aren't part of the matrix, but unscrew/unclamp from it?

You need to find out if it's a Valeo or Denso system, either might be fitted. Look what brand the blower motor is, if you can access its label. With that info, and your reg number or VIN, I can probably tell you matrix PN.

Wheel cover or centre cap off should reveal it, I think, no need to take wheel off?

May also be worth measuring the diameter of the space around the nut, and making sure that the socket you buy isn't too big on its overall diameter. Vaguely remember that on a Fabia mk1 the OD of the socket mustn't be bigger than about 49mm. My memory may not be correct though, and your model may have more (or possibly even less) room. Best to check.

The switch won't be causing the fuse to blow, it is wired with thin wires that carry tiny signal currents only.

The thick red/white wires come from the fuse that's blowing to each front door module. The most likely place for that to be broken or damaged is in the rubber bellows between the car body and each front door, in the hinge area. Since the driver's door is usually opened and closed most, look at that one first. The rubber can usually be detached at the car body end and pulled back towards the door to allow inspection of the wires inside. Would someone with a similar age mk2 Octy please tell this person how to gain access, please? I don't have personal experience on this platform.

I think you may find a short between the main 12V feed coming from that fuse, and something else, possibly the main brown earth. I can't see much else causing a 30 or 35 Amp fuse to blow instantly.

Go straight to checking the wiring in the rubber bellows between door and A-pillar.

Well done, always nice to hear of a good secondhand part solving a problem. 👍

Hope you meant 505 01 for the 1.9?

I would leave that. Maybe keep some paper or cardboard under there (fixed to undertray somehow) to absorb the drips, so they don't go onto the road, or your driveway/garage. It could be worth checking the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is working correctly. This helps eliminate, or at least reduce any gas pressure in the crankcase/sump/head which makes leaks less probable. I don't know exactly how this system operates on your engine, so I can't suggest a method for checking it, but sometimes just loosening the oil filler cap while engine is idling, and observing whether it tends to be blown upward or sucked back down can give a useful indication.

The thing I was trying to describe is nothing to do with the carburettor itself, certainly nothing to do with the accelerator pump.

Ah OK, completely different arrangement with a wax thermostat acting directly on the flap? Or manual moving of the flap according to season? Maybe try to find a way to heat the carb body also.

In a mk2 Golf I used to own, there was a thermostatic vacuum valve in the hose that went to the diaphragm which moved the flap. That contained a bimetallic strip which was supposed to respond to the intake temperature to create a closed loop system. The little thermostat valve needed cleaning out before mine worked correctly. The 'teeny tiny hole' was blocked, so not allowing sampling of the passing air, or something, I seem to remember. (This was at least 20 years ago, so the memory is vague). Not sure if Felicia has same thing?

Perhaps a reason to be a bit more hesitant before ridiculing stuff that 'sounds wrong'?

If it is not leaking from somewhere higher up (above gearbox) and running down to there, then it seems likely that you would have to remove the gearbox to find the source of the oil. May be better to just keep cleaning it and making sure you are not losing much oil by checking the level regularly. If it is leaking enough to make a mess on your driveway, then it would be kind to other road users if you fix it before it gets much worse. It would be helpful if @Blue8793841 could maybe show us the technical service bulletin he mentions. Or at least tell us which brand, model and engine(s) it applied to.

Surprised me too @J.R., but make yourself a cup of tea and then try googling "oil leaking from flywheel bolts". Quite a bit of reading matter pops up.

I'll encourage someone else to flesh out that statement. Never owned a vehicle with a DPF myself.

More likely to be fuel contamination into the oil, unfortunately, due to interrupted/incomplete regens.

Ignore my mention of the precat bit. Whilst the ETKA illustration depicts one, real photos of genuine sections suggest it's not present on your part number. Makes life a bit easier.

How many miles has the car done Tony? The original cats will be bigger and contain far more catalytic materials compared with an aftermarket replacement, which are probably capable of scraping through 2 or 3 MOTs only, and I think will universally omit the precat at the start of the section, So a grafting in of a flexi is a good option, but not entirely straightforward. I believe you may find 'kinks' in the 3D shape of the front section, close to the flexible part on at least one end, which will need careful planning and marking to ensure a viable fit if welding it in. I think the front section part number is 6Q0254502RX, still available from Skoda if you have a grand or so to spare. Aftermarket versions can be found at around a tenth of that cost on ebay, if you search that number. I can be more confident of that being the correct part number for your car if you supply reg or VIN.

If you'd like the current part number for the coilpacks, ping me the reg or VIN. Unless someone made a mistake (or only claimed to replace them...), plugs fitted in Oct '24 can't really be a problem already? Check no.3, sure.

@ThomasP, if you would like the wiring information about which engine ECU pins the G62 sensor connects from, please share your VIN by private message so I can look up for you. May be useful to an autospark, if not yourself.