Breezy_Pete

Yeah, that pretty much rules out a similar problem. I wasn't losing a lot, and there were a couple of other suspect (pipework/joints) spots that I'd blamed 'til I saw that.

Loctite isn't required or specified. Either accept that it probably will be fine, or go elsewhere.

I guess you had a good look down towards waterpump? I did mine on my 1.4/16v Polo over Christmas, just cos it had been ten years since belt kit and waterpump were done last (at VW). Only maybe 50k miles in that time, maybe even less.. Everything was still functionally OK, but the waterpump seal to block had been leaking, for a long time. Worth looking for any similar residue. I had noticed nothing visually from outside the lower cover, surprisingly. Guess it was leaking slowly enough to all evaporate in there.

Bad contact. Put a new one in, and maybe even try to clean the receptacles in the fusebox, somehow.

Swap another one in just in case. Dirty or clean contacts on it?

You need to see whether it has blown or not.

The one I meant looks beige in your previous pic??

Top row of little miniblades, left hand end one, I think. Looks halfway out?

No idea what the busted wire or the device it used to connect to is. Bonnet open/closed switch, maybe? Won't be related to brake light issues, I'm almost certain.

Easy enough to check and replace the fuse, rather than speculate on why/how. 5 Amp miniblade, I think.

Check fuse 8 before you worry about anything else. It appears to supply the brake light switch and the clutch switch and the fan control module, so would be consistent with most of the fault indications if blown.

I believe your car has the hall-effect type of brake light switch, mounted on the brake master cylinder, rather than the pedal. The garage(s) are possibly unaware of this, so looking in the wrong place. See if there's any sign of wiring damage near to it (access is horrible on RHD cars though, I expect).

I'm not sure there's much to be gained by any further interaction with them, to be honest.

Same bolt, fibbing garage.

Some do, some got 256mm; it's a strange one.

027 will be fine.

You know coolant is roughly 50% water, right?

I bet the bolt didn't come in the kit they bought, (it wasn't in the genuine VW kit I bought for the 9n Polo) and they interpreted that to mean it was OK for it to be re-used. Hard to say for certain that it'll be fine; if it was going to break it would probably have done so during tightening. Bigger risk is that it wasn't done up tight enough, and might subsequently loosen, but it doesn't sound like you'll get an honest answer, if any, to what spec and tooling was used to tighten it. If it's something that's going to cause you ongoing anxiety, I'd suggest getting another garage to quote for replacing it.

Not as extreme as one I did recently. 150Nm plus 180°, on a 9n Polo, took a hell of a lot of doing. Is it a garage you hope to use again, and have history with? They won't enjoy being told the job hasn't been done right, obviously, but if they know you, and are a bit grown up, they ought to at least discuss it.

What torque plus angle does the manual specify, something quite extreme I'd expect? Brave to reuse it, if done up again to full spec.

Open circuit (broken or very badly connected wire) is consistent with a falsely low temperature reading, not a short circuit. Most likely breakage point would be just outside the cable entry of the connector, so ought to be obvious. What occasionally happens instead is that the metal encasement of the sensor goes porous, and coolant gets into the innards of the sensor. You'd think that replacement would solve this, but unfortunately once it's inside the connector, it can corrode the connections of both sensor and loom connector contacts, and even wick its way along the wires, within the insulation jacket. If you unplug the loom connector of G62, does it seem damp inside, and do the connector contacts look clean and shiny, or crusty and corroded? Good light and magnification may be required to see.

Yes, except for 288 to 312mm change. Yes, for the third time now. Have a look at your brakes, confirm that you see FSIII on the outside of the caliper casting. Look at how the caliper mounts, where the disc sits and imagine trying to squeeze a bigger disc into the same diameter opening.

If it currently has 256mm discs, it has the FSIII calipers. On Fabias these calipers fit onto the integrated carriers, no bigger discs can be or are used on FSIII calipers on Fabias, The three variants on Fabia mk1 are: FSII caliper with 239 discs, and bearing housing with integrated carriers to suit this disc size. FSIII caliper with 256mm and discs and different bearing housings with integrated carriers to suit this disc size. Lucas calipers with 288mm discs, carriers that bolt onto the again different bearing housing.

With the integrated carriers on your bearing housings, you can't fit anything bigger without changing the whole bearing housing. You'd have to fit the suffix S parts of item 7 here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/453/4/407/407010 Waste of time and effort.

Yes, don't even start buying stuff until diagnosis is complete. It's a big job that you really wouldn't want to do unnecessarily. I won't do another, nasty engine to do such major work on. Easier to fit another engine.