Breezy_Pete

Difficult to know if the pump has problem until it has some fluid to pump.

Probably leaking into the dust covers on the tie-rods.

Bear me in mind if you have any trouble with the electric windows. 🙂

Yep, 239mm for that VIN. 👍

Only if you are talking about roughly twice as many petrol vehicles as diesels. The difference is significant, but nowhere near that big. I guess you mean CO.

No Octavias have the same engine as yours, so the Indie may be getting confused about what's involved in changing just the tensioner (much the same as changing chain really). Ask Skoda to look at it and give you a quote to repair. Or a VW group specialist independent.

The Skoda tech, I think. I believe it may be the 1.2 TSI (turbo'd, quite different engine) which had a change of chain and so tensioner around that era. I think the degree of slip could be assessed (by someone with experience of this engine) by seeing how far away the slot that isn't currently visible via cam sensor hole is, if that makes any sense!? Taking the chain cover off is a big job timewise, and I can't see why changing chain at same time as tensioner would add greatly to the cost. Is it an Indie specialising in VW group cars or a more general one? I would be tempted to get more quotes. How well/badly did it drive on the way to the Indie?

That's the 60bhp single cam version. I think I see what they're getting at with viewing through cam sensor hole. Especially if they set cylinder 1 to top dead centre in compression stroke prior to getting the pic. I'm more familiar with the twin cam version of the engine to be honest, though. I think they are getting mixed up with a different engine type when referring to tensioner changes and incompatibility with chain. Whether it's worth fixing may depend on how much the chain has slipped. If it has only jumped one tooth there may not be any valve damage; more and there probably will be. Are you attached to the car, so to speak?

What's the registration plate, or VIN please? The 70bhp 3 cylinder is a 1.2 litre non-turbocharged engine. The work to replace the tensioner (on that engine) is almost the same as for the whole chain, so I think this garage are not too sure what they're dealing with. There's a fairly straightforward way of checking the chain timing on this engine, without significant time or disassembly work. Sounds like they're unaware of this. Whereabouts in South England are you?

Yes, windy up there.

Gale force winds from the WNW may have some bearing on this??

Was there a fault code relating to it?

Left one is purge valve. Connects to intake manifold and to a pipe from the charcoal canister at back of vehicle, probably comes up with fuel pipes?

I'll repeat the above question; Does the driver's side switch panel backlighting work when the vehicle lights are on?

What made you think that it was this one that was causing the fault light, rather than the one before the SCR cat?

LHD car shown, expect the drain to be the other side of the matrix pipes if you have a RHD car.

Drips down from there, yes.

Hiding under a bump in the sound insulation on the firewall, engine side, next to where the heater matrix hoses go through into cabin.

Yes.

Thank you for making me aware of a missing part on our car.

The absence of it will not cause any problems or warning lights.

A correctly connected one (ebay listing photo) Any piece of hose that fits (and doesn't melt with engine heat) should be OK. It's not listed as a separate part.

No, the v-fitting is just a connection, both parts open, to 'forward' the EGR connection onwards to the part of the airbox where the filtered air is. Here's a photo of the two remaining parts of the linking hose. If you zoom in, the one on the left looks a bit like a blank, with partly flat end, but I guess the hose attached to the broken edge.

Interesting! The v-fitting is supposed to link these two parts of the engine cover with a pipe, broken at both ends here, and missing. I didn't know that had happened on our Fabia. 😁

My partner will be home soon with her car, so I can remind myself if it has that v shape fitting or not. Ideally both pipes (from EGR and from valve cover) should be connected to sources of clean, filtered air from the downstream side of the air filter. Any unused connections at the air filter/ engine cover should be blanked off to avoid unfiltered air entering instead.