varaderoguy

You might have accidently download Columbus maps for your Amunsden system or vice versa - or the download was corrupt. Where did you download your map updates from?

P0087 is a fuel rail pressure issue. Suggestions to look at: Possible Solutions Check Measuring Values for Fuel Pressure Check for bent/squeezed Fuel Lines Check Low Fuel Pressure System for Leaks Check Fuel Filter & Filter in Fuel Pump Check the Fuel Quantity supplied by the Fuel Pump Check for fuel pressure loss from leaking fuel injector Visual Inspection of Hardware (Camshaft, Cam Follower, ect) Also check to make sure you don't have fuel contamination as that would also cause problems. Look at testing the Fuel Rail Pressure via an analogue tester. When you changed the fuel pump, assumed you used a good quality part? There is also a good image from Ross-Tech about high pressure pump failures:

Juddering on a DSG is usually sign of either a failing dual-mass flywheel (usually associated with a noise) or its the clutch pack failing.

Glowplugs do die. Typically, you get about 130,000 miles on a TDI before they start to show problems. Get the whole set replaced with good quality parts (e.g. Bosch). The fact that the issue is intermittent probably highlights an intermittent open-circuit in one of the heater coils. The car might not throw an error in ODB2 mode, it might be the VAG (history) code memory - for which you will need ODBEleven or VCDS to read.

Thanks @PetrolDave - I've correctly what I said earlier (everyday/schoolday etc) Sorry if anybody was confused.

Sure, but there is a reason why VAG state that some bolts are one-time use only. I'm not sure if this bolt is one-time use or not, but OP seems to suggest that he is concerned about this issue. It comes down to risk - ultimately, if the OP wants piece of mind, then they can request that the bolt be replaced.

Excessive moisture and also as a lubricant (sorry I missed out that bit). I would also correct an earlier statement about G12+ - that should have been G12++. The helpful chart gives a better timeline.

Arh - now that is interesting. I never knew the Swing's got Carplay/AA functionality. Learn something new everyday.

You trust an unknown person on Instragram in a different country to potentially fix a problem for $100? Sounds like a scam to me.

So the whole reason why Skoda / VAG put these silicon bags into the coolant tank was to try and make the Coolant - "Coolant for Life" - if I remember rightly - sometime between 2015 and 2017. The term "coolant for life" got dropped very quickly, but the silicon bag was there to remove excessive moisture in the coolant. In the meantime, VAG had gone from G12+ to G13 - which was meant to compliment the minimal servicing requirements. G13 got pulled (I think) due to environmental concerns and it got replaced by the current mix we all use today called G12evo. Skoda will still recommend a coolant replacement every 5 years though, so the whole silicon bag debacle is one of those issues where VAG chalked it up to experience. I know of Skoda dealers who's techs remove the silicon bag if they see it....other's leave it. Its a mess. In short though, I recommend removal of the silicon bag due to the fact that the bag splits. In answer to this question from automass, if your coolant is over 5 years old, a coolant flush is not going to hurt. The coolant can weaken, if you had silicon bag in your header tank (and it split and you didn't get a flush done at the time) then a coolant flush followed by fresh G12evo will definately help.

I think that the diagnostic should not cost more than an hours labour. Looking at the top of the pistons with a boroscope (even with a TDI and removing the glowplugs for investigation) - doesn't take long. If you want a compression test, that may take about 30 mins to complete....it all depends how in-depth you want to go and what your budget is. Good diagnostics can save the cost of a new engine if only the valves are bent. Replacing the valves - about an two labour - getting the engine re-timed....plus a new belt (and probably water pump whilst you are there) - call it 4-5hrs labour all in told if you have been lucky.

Can you check the state of the cabin air filter? There are multiple versions and I've found that if you end up with the non-carbon version of the cabin air filter, it can go mouldy after about 12k miles and give you a fousty smell. You might also want to put through a can of Air Conditioning saniter after you've changed the cabin air filter.

Sorry - that should have read: check with a Boroscope to check the cylinder head BEFORE you take off the head itself. Typing too quickly this morning.

Extremely bad luck. It does happen and if you car was serviced by Skoda, you might have recourse to them to get it fixed under good will. Otherwise, it will probably be bent valves if you were at idle. The worry is if the valve has either impacted (hard) the top of the cylinder head or (worse) - snapped and gone into the combustion chamber....in which case, it would have scored the cylinder liner and I would suggest would probably end up being scrap. You could get the engine bored out slightly, put in some oversized pistons.... Anyway, first stop...to the garage/specialist. They will need to remove the cylinder head as a first port of call and via a Boroscope - inspect the top of the cylinders. Plans can then be made on whether its just new valves or whether it a new engine.

Can you confirm whether you have checked to see if you have the Mit Silcon and check to make sure (if you can) that the silicon bag has been (carefully) removed. This issue is a ticking timebomb for a lot of Octavia owners. If you are able to remove the silicon bag and it looks (even slightly) as though it has split, you will need to organise a complete flush of the cooling system. If Silicon gets into the heater matrix, it can block it up (and hence less hot airflow)

The 2018 to 2020 cars seem to suffer from boot seals being tight. I have to be slightly forceful on my 2019 Octavia.

The DQ250 gearbox should be serviced every 40,000 miles or 65,000 kms.

Making some assumptions here: This is probably a DQ250 6 speed DSG gearbox we are talking about. Is the car 2 wheel or 4x4 variant? What mileage is the car and when did you have a fluid and filter change done on the gearbox?

That related to a failed or failing Exhaust Pressure Control flap.

I would suggest patching the MIB system as a first port of call if you aren't already running 0480 firmware. I've found that some of the feedback can be a bit laggy otherwise and a good number of systems use the MIB system as a method of passing messages around the CANBUS network. There is usually a bit of a lack between an select from R into D(i.e. the reversing camera stays on), but if none of that fixes it, then possibly a session with ODIS at a dealer to see if there are any firmware patches for any of the modules.

You need to speak with @pab567 who can fix you up with a newer MIB2 system.

oh yes, there is. It just isn't called a VRS. If you can get hold of a TDI Bi-Turbo 250bhp version, they are definately quick. You will even see the recent articles of breathed upon TSI cars making 500bhp, so they are out there. Typically, you are looking for a TSI Superb 4x4 version and ideally an Lauren and Klement version too. A quick Autotrader search showed the following:

If space is super tight, you might want to consider a Superb Estate for your oars. They are a bit longer and would accomodate the rowing equipment far better.

I think its an LED strip - hence my comment about replacing headlight unit 😞

Not ideal. Suggest first port of call that you check the connectors etc. My biggest worry is that the LED strip is part of the headlight and if that has failed, its usually a replacement headlight for the car.