varaderoguy

I tend to use Fuse 47 as its switched live. Depends on the car, the wiring loom and the piggy back fuseholder.

Do they have to be inside or can they be mounted on the roof?

We really need a scan done via VCDS or ODBEleven. This will show either weak or failing flap motors (a known weak point). You should also check the cabin air filter to make sure it isn't blocked or dirty.

Probably shocks. I would also get an inspection done of the rest of the steering components in-case you have a problem bushing. I would also recommend getting (at least) two wheel tracking done as well as checking the tyre pressures. If you shocks are a problem, you can confirm this by i) see if they are weeping any oil and ii) on a ramp with the car lifted onto its sub-frame, bounce each wheel and see if the damping effect of the shocks is working. You are allowed 1 up, 1 down and that should be it. Any more bouncing action means that the dampers aren't doing their thing.

Well, my first thought is: have you tried swapping the coils between (lets say, cylinder 2 and cylinder 3). Does the error move? If so, that would indicate a coil pack failure. Would recommend replacing all the coils if that is the case. Can you also get a boroscope and check into the cylinder head of cylinder 3? Can you see if its looks steam cleaned? If so, you have a cylinder head gasket issue and it needs replacing. Going for a new ECU is a bit dramatic (and expensive) unless you can 100% guarantee that the driver in the ECU has failed.

I would also add that ODBEleven is also an excellent contender. HOWEVER - what are the errors in the car? The car is trying to tell you something and just clearing out codes doesn't usually fix anything....

That looks dodgy. As standard there are no wires like that from the internal fuse box, so it must be a third party accessory.

Probably worth lubricating up the locks when it gets a little warmer. Lithium spray keeps door/hinges/locks all good. It was probably trying to lock the door when you moved off, couldn't (due to cold/stiff locks), failed....tried again...failed tried again until it eventually managed to get positive lock on the doors.

It will be a downstream O2 sensor that is failing. O2 sensors can randomly fail at anytime. That code means that the sensor is sending out random information. Could be a failing heater circuit or the sensor is dying. Replace it either a decent OE replacement / Bosch sensor.

Update on Project Blu. My husband has been using it as his daily and loves it to bits. Properly smitten. Car has done just under 120,000 miles. Things that needed attention: 1) The battery needed replacing. A CCA test showed it had 50% capacity on its battery. Got a new Varta 700Ah battery installed. Car is now very happy again. Curiously, it had a failing reversing sensor. Since we replaced the battery, the reversing sensors have played nicely. Win-Win. 2) Tyres. The tyres on that car were trash. Terrible things. Replaced them with a set of Goodyear All Seasons Vector 3. Brilliant. Recent Snow/Cold has paid those off instantly. Happy times. 3) The car had a full service. Oil/Filter/cabin air filter/fuel filter. Running Quantum VAG 507 spec 5W/30 oil. Got a full service kit for £108. Fantastic. Run some cleaner through the engine prior to oil change that has got rid of the gunk. 4) The humitity sensor had failed. Common fault. Got a replacement sensor from AutoDoc for £82. Both heated screen and air con now working correctly. 5) Its just been to Autohaus in Edinburgh for replacement front springs, droplinks and new polybush top mounts. Big chunk of spring fell away when we were doing a pre-MOT inspection in December (gulp). Other than that, husband has been busily polishing the bonnet. Previous owner did a poor respray to touch up stonechips, resulting in terrible orange peel. Its a work in progress, but bonnet is looking fantastic. Car will never be perfect (its done 120,000 miles previously in rural yorkshire), but its a very good car. Bonus: Its just past its MOT with flying colours. Things still to do: a) Lacquor on the wheels is peeling. Alloys will need to be Acid Dipped, cleaned and made good again. b) The High Beam assist issue. Suspect I'll need a new mirror electronics....not urgent as husband said he's not fussed.

As the original posting was for a MK3 Octavia TDI 2.0, I've asked the admins to put in a link to this posting from the MK2 Fabia section.

Do you want to take this conversation over to the MK2 section of the Fabia? We love to have you here, but you will probably find more assistance / experience with your Fabia in the Fabia section of Briskoda. I can arrange to have this conversation moved across there as necessary. However, in my experience with the Fabia's, the 1.2TDI's do suffer from this issue. I suggest that you run some Diesel Cetane improver or a couple of tanks of Super Diesel through the car to improve performance, clean EGR and keep the car running properly. You will still need to work the turbo vane, make sure they are free. Soot and build up can cause the car to vanes not to return to the default position. Failing that, please check to make sure the turbo bearings are good and aren't noisy (indicating failing turbo).

🫢ooohhh - okay. Well, if you are comfortable about paying dealer prices then I suppose that's fine. They will (obviously) want to sell you the Koroq. I suggest VAG specialists these days.

You will have a DQ200 7 speed box. Its a possibility that if the clutch pack is beginning to fail. DQ200 are meant to be a no-maintainance box design, but that's neither good for the car or the transmission. Whatever happens, I suggest that you get the transmission serviced. Firstly - a scan is needed. If the clutch pack is on its way out, it will throw a code (out of tollerance type errors). You can either take the car to a VAG specialist like Tektronic near Stirling or you can find a DSG transmission specialist (somebody like Mackie Transmissions over at Rutherglen).

I've heard reasonable things about Volkscraft in Exeter - http://volkscraft.com/ Give them a call and get their vibe.

Yes, that will be turbo vanes sticking. You don't say if you have a TSI or TDI engine, but broadly the issue affects both engine types. All VAG products like being given a load of progressive driving. I know that is counter-intuitive and you think you are looking after your car by being gentle with it, but VAG cars need some direct - Aktion des rechten Fußes (or right foot action). Find the turbo actuator at the back of the engine (in most cases) and manually open and close it. If its seized solid, then it will be a visit to the dealer to fix it. Hopefully you've caught the problem in time. If you have a TSI, please put in a couple of tanks of Super Unleaded fuel and drive more progressively. Work that throttle. If you have a TDI, I (personally) recommend Diesel Cetane improver (controversal, but IMHO it keeps the engine sweet). A tiny amount in each tank of diesel will keep the EGR clean, the turbo happy, the DPF happier too....oh...and drive more progressively.

You highlight the dilema with all the MK3's. Most of them are out of warranty and Skoda themselves are trying to push people into new cars (MK4 shudders.....). They are getting into their third owner and Skoda UK aren't interested in that demographic group. The best thing is that you go and get yourself an ODBEleven dongle. That quote for £140 diagnostic fee is relative - as the purchase price for ODBEleven and a year's worth of diagnostic usage is about £83.39. Just to read a bleeding obvious fault code. Personally I think that Skoda UK's model is bust....I know that Skoda UK tend to occassionally up their prices, but the jump was double the previous cost just to look at a fault. So - it comes down to whether you are willing to maintain your service record. In all honesty, this is where independant VAG specialists jump up to the plate, as they can maintain the Electronic service record and can usually do the job for a third less than dealer prices. Might be worth investing in a 12v heater for the car (to be used when the engine is running) to keep some warmth in the cabin etc. Good luck.

Kopacek do a winter grill for the MK3's. If you have constant low temperatures, it makes sense, although its not recommended if you sit in lots of traffic.

What's your budget on an Octavia Estate? What type of journeys will you be doing?

Definately get us a scan via VCDS or ODBEleven. The temperature sensor for the temperature gauge is measure from the block, so its possible that one of the other temperature sensors has either failed or is failing. Do you get an issues with the Heating system? If you get hot/cold spots, then recommend that it might be a problem with Silica bag that has split in the header tank. You will need a full flush out and new header tank in that case.

Skoda / VAG keep on changing the part number. The current part number is 5Q0121407AA and there are loads of places selling them online. None of the latest gen of header tanks come with the Silica Teabag.

You might want to do this first then....this will probably fix your problem

Stupid question, but has the gas been recharged recently? This needs recharging every 2-3 years. Low gas pressure will drop out the compressor.

It is mentioned on the Ross-Tech site that is likely that the Turbo might have failed. Suspect turbo bearings have gone in that case, especially if gone into limp mode and is using oil. If its not too far gone, you might be able to get it rebuilt or failing that it will be a new turbo.

If you talking about the Soundikator, then it can be switched off via VCDS/ODBEleven if needed.