varaderoguy

Hello @dustexe - welcome to the forum. We are missing several key pieces of information. What engine are you using? I'm assuming a TDI - based on the glow plugs comment. What's the mileage? Recent service history? As @RattleWagon stated, we really need a VCDS or ODBEleven scan of the car. Have a look at: https://obdeleven.com/products as its always useful to have this device available for all VAG cars.

Holy moly. That's some oil loss. For an engine to loose that much, that I would be expecting a constantly stream of oil coming from somewhere, probably from the belly pan area. I would suggest, don't drive it unless to your nearest Skoda dealer.

Its not going to be the oil - although it should be ideally running on 0W30 LL FSIII VAG 504/507 spec oil. P0148 is generally a priority 2 fault code (high) and is usually to do with either fuel pressure, fuel regulation or according to Ross-Tech, this code is associated with Fuel Temperature Sensor A being faulty. Can you get us a full VCDS/ODBEleven scan please?

You might want to tag in @pab567who can let you know if that is the latest version or not.

There is an 0253 SOP2.x update for that unit. I've always experienced glitches with 0245.

This posting needs to go into the Fabia MK3 section. Asked Admin to move it.

Push and pull the rod gently (with the car switched off). If its completely stuck, then sadly its a new turbo actuator that is needed or you need to take the fins apart and clean them manually (not easy).

Are you getting an inplausable signal from the accelerator actuator? Would show up on a scan.

Arh - different answer then. Was missing the bit about it being a composite pan.

Can you check the brake shields / back plate on all 4 wheels? I have heard that sounds before and it sounds like one of the back plates has corroded through and is rubbing on the disc.

The actuator has probably been gummed up by soot. You can try working the actuator by hand to see if that frees it, but my suggestion is that you need a cetane improver to clean out the EGR and keep the soot from building up. https://www.hydra-int.com/DPB000K.html is what I used when I had a TDI. You also should be more firm and give the car a good long run/blast out....don't be afraid of giving the car a good long (60 miles +), fast (keep it in a lower gear at 70mph) and progressive run (don't be afraid to use ALL the accelerator - work the actuator).

It will probably be one of two things. If you have an L&K, you should have a Columbus system. Check exactly which door the issue is coming from. Is the rattle on the tweater at the top of the door or the mid-range in the middle bottom of the door? Its a possibility that you have a blown speaker. Failing that, it is also possible that the rivet holding the speaker to the door has sheered (this happened on our 2020 Golf) and also caused water to get into the cabin. Which ever option it is, its a door card off job to investigate.

Okay - this sounds weird, but you probably need to recalibrate your electric windows! Engine running, in neutral (or park on DSG), wind down the window and hold switch DOWN for 5 seconds. Now wind up window (holding switch) AND KEEP holding it for 5 seconds after the top of the windows is reached. Do this for each window. I think that should solve the issue.

It goes without saying....don't drive the car with no coolant! If the steam is coming into the cabin, then the breach will probably be the heat exchanger in the cabin. Check the silica bag of doom has been removed (in the header tank), but it could well be the system has either over pressured or you do indeed have a failed heat exchange. First things first - put water into the system (i.e. top it up) and then pressurise the system (using a pressure test kit) and start checking where the leaks are. Also check the carpets...if they are wet, then its definitely a heat-exchanger issue. You will need to flush out the system post repair and then refill with G12evo.

I think its worth removing the undertray and looking at the sump. If the drip is from the sump plug, then you might have an overtightened sump-plug. Try replacing it with a new one and making sure it is only torqued up to 25 to 30nm. On a genuine sump plug, it should have to correct value on it. Officially, you are meant to have a new sump plug every service (quite often that doesn't always happen). If the sump is leaking around the edges, then its new sump bolts and new sealant around the bottom of the engine block. Clean off the oil sealant and make sure the mating surfaces are shiny/clean. Torque up to the appropriate pressures.

It will an issue that the car is probably complaining about the fuel pressure. Can you get your car scanned on ODB11 or VCDS (so we can get a proper output, instead of just MIL errors and generic codes).

No attached file. Is this a manual or DSG gearbox?

Humm...not good. Firstly get a code scan done, but I think you might have a problem with the ECU. I've seen this before where you get intermittent connectivity on the CANBUS network (caused either by a connection/module issue or a failure motherboard on the ECU) and the car freaks out and shows that by putting the fans full on. Code Scan - post it here....and we can comment further.

Either 5W30 or 0W30 is appropriate for the car. Stick with 0w 30 FS III, VW 504 00 / 507 00 standard.

Well, taking out the dash is not terrible, but taking apart the cluster is slightly tricky. Anyhow, Best not to cover up the warning light. Its the car trying to tell you something! Best find a friend with ODB11 or VCDS to find out what the actual problem is.

Skoda would do resets on the clutch-pack anyway - and ask you to drive it. Yes, if you can get VCDS to do that for you, that saves you a visit to the dealer. Leaving the car in neutral is not good. Best to leave it in Park. The DSG can get confused. As with most MK3's, most of their factory batteries will now be EOL, so best get a CCA test on the battery and if its 20% below the CCA value, get a new battery (coding needed) installed, clear out the codes and start again.

What's the history on this vehicle? Agree with others - sounds like the Mechatronic unit has got a dodgy solenoid. If there is a good DSG mechanic available, he might be able to resuscitate it. Fluid levels / pressure levels on DQ250/381/500 series boxes is EVERYTHING and if they don't have the correct pressure internally, you will have all kinds of problems. Worth trying a fluid and filter change. On the DQ250-A (all wheel drive on the Scout), the recommended fluid change is every 40,000 miles, but I personally think that is waaayyy to long. Probably get it done at 30,000 miles is more appropriate. For the DQ381 box, Skoda recommend service every 80,000 miles, but honestly, the oil is trashed at 35000 miles (I know this, because I had an intermediate service done at that mileage, when the gearboxes were new and the Skoda tech said that the [factory] oil was rank and smelt terrible at 35k, so honestly don't leave it to the service schedule.

That will be your problem. You are only on SOP2.x firmware. Version 480 is SOP4.x, so not compatible.

What is your current firmware?

That sounds like two potential faults. Water pump failing and potentially the flap motor either failing or needs recalibration. Do you have a code scan of the car?