varaderoguy
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Everything posted by varaderoguy
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Your sequence is basically correct, except you need to put the header tank cap on for the special cleaner additive (because it needs to get up to temperature). Part number is 5Q0121407AA for the header tank. Apologies, my previous instructions were slightly incorrect: you add it (the cleaner) to the existing coolant, run the engine to circulate the cleaner, and then drain and flush the system with clean water before refilling with new, approved coolant. I suggest that you remove some of the coolant in the header tank first, then replace with flush. Refill the system with water, add in more flush, repeat several times. So - here in the order: a) First - replace the header tank, so no more silica gets into the system. 1) Remove some of the coolant in the header tank 2) Add in the VAG flush agent into the coolant header tank 3) Seal up and run up to temperature 4) Cool and then drop the coolant 5) Flush out with tap water 6) Refill with tap water and add in flush into the system. 7) Seal up and run up to temperature. 8) Repeat steps 5,6,7 a couple more times until dirt and silica beeds stop coming out of the system. VAG techs have been known to do this up to 6 times to get out all the silica. 9) Fill up with VAG G12EVO coolant (concentrate - dilute first or premade) 10) Bleed system using VCDS/ODBEleven (with header tank cap off - top off with G12evo as necessary) That's it.
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I would definately +1 with @TheClient . Get the car scanned via ODBEleven or VCDS and find out what the actual fault is with ACC. ACC Alignment is only generally needed if you had wheel alignment done or windscreen replaced.
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It might be worth checking what version of firmware you are running on your MIB2 system. There might be a bug stopping the system from working correctly. Press and hold MENU, go to system and version information and make a note of what the current firmware is. I have seen these inaccuracies before on the MIB systems and as the previous responder stated, they usually (eventually) correct themselves.
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Top up with some G12EVO and try again.
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It's most likely the screen that has failed. I'm assuming that you have either a Bolero or Amundsen unit. You could be lucky enough to just upgrade the screen to a Gen3.5 screen. Speak with our in-house expert @pab567
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When did you last change your coolant? If it's over 5 years old, the coolant may be weak and not transferring heat properly to/from the engine. With that said, the thermostat is also a candidate. It's located around where the water pump is....
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AGM batteries usually sit at 85% charged capacity. Not coding in your battery will also mess up stop/start and you may also get voltage spikes on the car electrics due to the BMS struggling to know what the current charge or voltage is or should be. This may also throw low voltage codes.
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What worries me about the coolant is that here is quite a lot of crystals around the head of the tank. You sadly have a double skin tank, so you cannot get to the silica bag even if you wanted to. So - you need a new header tank - single skin. Replace that as a first point. You also need the flush and the G12Evo coolant. Drain off the old coolant by dropping the bottom radiator hose. Flush briefly with tap water to get any initial crud. Then reconnect bottom hose, refill with the flush and then run engine back up to temperature....you will need to keep the cap off and add more flush as the level drops....also you might need to "burp" the car if the flush doesn't flow initially. Let the engine get up to temperature....switch off - let it cool - drop the flush.....then clean through again with tap water.... Its a laborous process....you need to keep on flushing until silica is removed (small little pellets of crystal)....several VAG guys I know have to do about 6 flushes before they are happy with there being no more silica in the system. You also need to consider - you need to capture and dispose of all the liquid you use....this can be up to 40 litres of flush/dirty water/old coolant that needs to be disposed of at your local waste recycling centre.
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Arh - the "car will learn" way of doing things. No - sorry; I don't buy that. Yes, eventually the car does learn, but it never fully charges or optimises the battery. Get somebody with ODBEleven or VCDS and properly code up the correct battery type and capacity.
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Hello there, 1) I think it looks like your master cylinder is failing. What tends to happen there is the seals fail and then fluid bypasses and gives you this binary on/off situation with the brakes. 2) With your HVAC system, it is probably either the flap motor that has failed (easy fix) or sadly (and less nice to fix) the silica bag in the header tank has burst and has made your coolant all horrible and the silica gel beads have now blocked up the heater matrix. You can check the coolant header tank. If you are lucky and have one where the silica bag can be extracted, then CAREFULLY remove it trying not to dislodge any further silica into the header tank. If it's a double skinned tank then this tank needs to be replaced with a single skin tank. THEN YOU NEED TO FLUSH the coolant system. This will take MANY hours until all the silica has been removed from the coolant system (many fills/emptying). You need some some G052188A3 coolant flush and degreaser to help here. Then fit the new header tank, fill with some G12evo coolant and then 'burp' the car by leaving the coolant header tank cap off and using VCDS/ODBEleven to purge the cooling system. I hope that helps.
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Can you get us the original part number for the existing PCV valve please on the engine?
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The bonnet sounds deadening material is available from the original supplier in (I think) Latvia. They aren't expensive and the kit comes with all the clips needed to secure the material to the underside of the bonnet. Its odd; my car (one of the last MK3.5's L&K's ) was a COVID car and never came with the part; so it was retrofitted by me.
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It is probably the flap motor that has failed. Common fault. If you get a code read done via ODBEleven or VCDS, then you should see the failed flap motor error message. Its fairly easy to get to - a reasonably competent person can replace it in an hour (it's just fiddly).
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I suggest that you go look at somewhere like Autodoc for the separate PCV valve. They do exist still; it's just Škoda being tight.
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Have you put in new batterys into the keyfobs? I've found that you need to use ALL the keys regularly, otherwise the MK3.5's have a habit of forgetting the keys. Is it a regular keyfob or a KESSY keyfob?
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Yes, I think I can see the problem. Under Battery Manufacturer, please type in VAR (for Varta). EXI is not an approved value. If your battery has a BEM sticker on it, then use that information. There is a good video on the process at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJAScg6JrYI
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Please speak to our resident in-house MIB expert @pab567 who can advise you on upgrade options. You can go for an MIB2.5 system with bigger screens (as found on the Facelift >2017 cars). All depends on whether you have a Swing (super-basic) Bolero (basic), Amunsden (mid-range - perfectly good) or Columbus (top range) system.
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Avoid - that won't work for you. Its a generic Android auto tablet interface that doesn't show you any of the functions of the car.
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Okay - we need more information. What make/brand and type of battery did you use? I tend to put in the model number of the battery as its serial number unless it has a serial number sticker on it. Did you change the Ah charging rate? You always need a unique and different serial number, so don't use all ones.....bad practice.
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@smic717394 Just to make you aware, that having a RIP OFF VCDS is one of the red flags here at Briskoda. Its not cool, supports only criminals trying to make a quick buck, and leaves your car with the potential of being bricked. Avoid it. If you canny afford VCDS, then please go and purchase a ODBEleven dongle. They are on discount (25% off) and a ODBEleven 2 dongle is perfectly sufficient for what you need. With my Scottish hat on - stop being so F**king tight.
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You need to code in a new battery. The battery voltage will remain low until you tell the BMS that it has a new battery.
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Hi @olek . I suggest to do some basic diagnostics, you get hold of an ODBEleven2 dongle. This will at least give you diagnostics, but not for 500 euros! I think that even genuine VCDS is not that much (especially for a 1-3 car license). I would suggest resetting the DSG gearbox - make sure it hasn't learnt some bad habits (my DQ250/DQ381 is terrible at learning bad shift changes). Its also worth getting any firmware updated for the gearbox too. To reset: To perform a manual VAG DSG gearbox reset, turn the ignition on without starting the car, fully press and hold the accelerator pedal for 30-60 seconds, then turn the ignition off (while still holding the pedal), wait - [suggest about 10 secs], and finally release the pedal and start the car to let it relearn your driving style. This process clears learned adaptations, potentially fixing jerky shifts and improving smoothness, and should be followed by a gentle test drive.
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