skomaz

That price is mental if it's just the coupling!!!

Skoda have historically announced a 2.0 190bhp 4x4 Octavia petrol.... Where are you based and what year / model is your Octavia as different markets got different models and specs. Skoda Octavia Estate 2.0 TSI 190PS 4x4 DSG auto 5d specs & dimensions

I'm guessing the situation will be the same as it was on our Mk2 Octavia 4x4 in that Skoda will only sell you the coupling with a propshaft attached and not just the coupling - hence the price? As to the coupling I think a few people have done these now on various models but not the Kodiaq. My question is is it causing a droning noise at speed under load - so say around 2300 RPM in top and more noticably under load and when accelerating? If not then it's probably OK for a while yet as that droning was the first indication of it having issues on our Octavia. Having said that it started at about 70,000 miles and we continued to run the car to about 115,000 miles with no issues - just the noise. In the end we didn't bother to replace the coupling as the car started with other issues that were going to cost more to fix than the car was worth. However, a local VAG specialist was up for replacing the coupling alone, having done similar on an Audi A3, and that was just the coupling alone using a Febi (I think from memory) pattern part at about £100.

Well it goes in the boot in the spare wheel well for one and you then don't get mucked up when you fit it as it stays clean. As for electrics etc. If coded properly you still get all that you mentioned. I had an octavia with an OE bar and now have a Kodiaq with an aftermarket bar with dedicated electrics and there is absolutely no difference other than the latter was about half to one third of the price. But each to their own and if you prefer the OE version that's fine... I just thought I'd make the suggestion as personally I think. It's overpriced and, given it's exposed to the elements and has a tendency to stick, seems under engineered.

If water is collecting n the threshold I very much doubt that it will get over the seal and into the car, unless the seal is not fitted correctly and water is getting under it instead (albeit that would still require quite a depth of water on the threshold before it happened. From your pictures it looks like the water is coming into the car from behind the interior door trim - ie it is running out from the gap between the plastic interior door trim and the blue metalwork at the bottom of the door (you should be able to check this by feeling along that join or gently pulling the trim to see if any more water leaks out. If that is the case the only place it can be coming from is those pink areas I noted. That will either be because the original foam seal along those pink areas has perished, or because it might have been damaged during the speaker installation and is no longer sealing properly. The doors are design such that any water running down the window glass naturally drains into the inside of the door and should drain away through weep holes in the bottom of the door. If they are blocked or the car is on a slope such that the water cannot reach those weep holes it will get out somewhere else at a low point that isn't sealed (for example those pink areas). If it were me I'd check the weep holes in the bottom of the door are clear and then take the interior door trim off and seal around those pink areas with silicon or polysulphide sealant, which I think should cure your problem.

I may not have phrased it too well but I'd expect the leak is from one, or more, of the areas in pink on the image below

If you want something invisible when not in use then a swan neck removable tow bar is another option and will be much cheaper, even with dedicated electrics and full coding.

This looks like the same issue that has plagued a number of Skoda's... Namely that the inner door skin behind the inner door trim isn't sealed against the door frame and hence water is draining between the frame and inner skin onto the top of the door seal and then into the car. The solution used to be resealing the inner door skin to the frame.

Pretty certain it's the same / same issue

From my experience on a MK1 fabia that issue will be the roof aerial. Water gets in over time and corroded the circuit board in the antenna base

Only one question... Why???????

If you can pull the rusty arm with a hole in it at the top of your second picture downwards it should open as I'm pretty certain that's where the cable end was attached after passing round the black plastic guide. Might be worth spraying a bit of lubricant in there first though as it's likely rusted stiff.

Whilst I like the yellow the 5 comes in that matt grey in combination with those wheels and what looks like a body kit is hideous

I'd suggest @pab567 is the man who might know...

Where are you getting them from - is it somewhere local or national / on-line as I've started looking for All Seasons for the Kodiaq but in a 235/55/R18 100V (or above)

A rasping rattling noise sounds more like a heat shield issue??

I'm currently paying 1.24 a litre and get about 40mpg from the Kodiaq so roughly £28 for 200 miles. In the swift it would be £22.50 ish for 200 miles and less if it was a motorway run. All fuel only of course

If it's a MK2 with projector lights a 35w London Colour HID kit works really well once coded and will pass an MOT.

Don't talk daft... We are many many years from that being reality believe me... It's part of my day job.

Our Suzuki switch does this at anything below about 10mph but never causes an issue as it's a manual and restarts as soon as the clutch is touched. Automatics are definitely where any problems arise.

TBH you've done a massive amount so far and it is starting to look car/pick-up like again!

Presumably your vrs has been chopped in?

We don't have an EV, are not on an EV tariff and are not with Octopus but also get free electricity for a couple of hours a week at the moment. I think it all depends on your supplier.

It's the sensor for the headlight levelling system.

Was your 'black to earth' to a an earthing point on the chassis of the car or on the battery terminal? - if on the battery terminal the battery monitoring connection is bypassed and hence the car doesn't know it's being charged. Doing the former may not matter too much for a quick top-up of a slightly depleted battery but probably would for a very flat battery.