skomaz

If it were me I'd keep the Swift but I may be biased given I have a Boosterjet SZ5... It's a far nicer car than the Fabias I've driven recently, albeit smaller.

The pad warning light is just that .. a warning that the pads will need replaced. It's not a replace immediately light. So no malpractice at all and you'll probably get charged for the replacement and call out as it wasn't actually necessary

There are two on the propshaft from memory - one at the front near the gearbox / transfer case and one at the rear in front of the Haldex coupling. As above the rear one seems to be the one that causes most issues but both can deteriorate. Skoda will apparently only supply a complete propshaft at a ridiculous cost but the couplings are available individually from third party suppliers and are common across the platform.

When we had a seatbelt warning fault on the Octavia I just unplugged the connector under the seat to no detriment

I had a call from SWMBO a while back re the seatbelt warning on the Kodiaq... It was the same issue of a bag on the passengers seat she'd dumped there in a hurry instead of in the boot.

Check the rubber couplings on the prop shaft on a Scout or 4x4... They tend to fail and cause a bad vibration at around 2300rpm under acceleration

Is a 'flap reset' possible on the Mk4 like it has been on other Skoda's using a combination of button presses? If so I'd try that first

Sounds like the mechanism has had it. It's usually the plastic brackets that hold the window on the runners that break causing the wires to come loose and wrap themselves round the motor spindle etc. Happened on our mk 1 Fabia but not the mk2 Octavia we had as the brackets were metal on that. I'm guessing the fabia still has plastic ones

A mk 1 Mazda Mx5 won't have an Obd connector but it does have basic on board diagnostics via a socket under the bonnet that can be read by a home made LED or one of these https://mx5tech.co.uk/diagnostic-tool

Karoq. Looks better outside and has a better interior. The T-Roc just feels and looks a bit cheap.

Is your trailer hook up an OE one or a high impedance bypass relay type? Your probably already know but the car monitors the bulbs and if it detects something 'out of specification' it shuts down that circuit. hence, if you have connected trailer wiring direct to the lighting circuit and it is not of the right type the car will perceive a fault and shut down the relevant circuits.

Still twice the weight of what I'm talking about though... Granted a different beast entirely but that's my point about a light and nimble feel...

All of the last few posts seem to hit the nail on the head as far as I'm concerned... sound, weight, inertness, design (interior and exterior) - they all count against EV's to me. And I also concur with the comments about the appreciation of mechanical ingenuity and integrity... The weight one seems to be a big killer too - as someone who likes pretty much anything mechanical and as an owner of two low weight cars - one 1040kg and one 975kg - I just can't get over the feeling of 'weight' that EV's have. Granted they can be made to go around corners pretty well but due to the weight they don't have that nimble light-footedness that I like. Having said all of that I'm sure at some point soon, probably when I replace the Swift, I'll end up with a small EV for local duties... but I'm hoping by then some of the above issues will have been resolved.

The thing is driving enjoyment is not just about straight line acceleration or speed... It's a combination of sensory experiences that EVs, however fast, don't seem to deliver. Sure they are great at delivering one... Acceleration... But miss on a lot of the others.

I've not had this but am aware that some people pop something in / on the pollen filter - so that would be worth looing at / checking

Looks like it's back to the dealer then as a warranty claim. On mine it was tricky to get the rubber behind the trim but I was able to push it in with the help of a long thumbnail and the sharp end of a cable tie. But then mine is a Mk1 as I explained and out of warranty so I was up for having a decent stab at fixing it myself without resorting to a trip to the dealer.

Hi - that's not the same design as the Mk 1 but I had exactly the same issue with the similar door trim that runs horizontally from the handle on my Mk1 They seem to be a separate piece of trim that is held in place on the door card by pins that pass through the door card, with plastic clips attached to the pins behind the door car that are, in turn, heat welded to both door card and the trim pins. I guess if these aren't fully tight against each other the trim piece rattles against the door card and, as you've found, that rattle stops when you touch or press on the door card. In my case I didn't want to remove the door card and certainly didn't want to mess with the heat welds etc. so was able to solve it on all four doors by gently pushing some thin foam rubber approximately 1mm thick up between the bottom of the trim and the door card in a few places. This was sufficient to take up any 'slack' between the two, or between the heat welds and the door card that allowed them to rattle and is pretty much invisible unless you look really closely at the trim from underneath. I suppose you could take the door card off and do something similar from inside, whilst it is off press the two together and use some hot melt glue to fix them if they've come loose but that seems a bit over the top compared to what I did. Cheers

Ah - didn't know that they'd switched it around - it's at the back on my 1.8 and there's naff all room between the back of the head and the firewall to get at it, see to line it all up and then actually get it into place.

While you were doing the re-route kit did you check for any oil leaks from the cam angle sensor? Once the o-ring seal starts to go hard they can leak and knacker the coolant hoses back there so worth checking just in case, albeit a bugger to get at (nearly put my back out doing mine a few years back).

Think I'll take the risk on that as I'm not that paranoid - there's probably more chance of my vehicle being ballsed up by a dealer installing software updates than of someone deciding to 'hack' a base spec Kodiaq IMHO. And lets face it - we're exposed to tracking and hacking wherever we are these days...

Surely the risk to you or your car is miniscule? Or am I missing something

Ah. I may have misled you there .. mine was a 4x4 and it was the flexible coupling on the driveshaft to the rear wheels that was the issue on mine. Yours is fed so won't have that. It does sound like a driveshaft issue though.

More likely to be low gas in the A/C system. Might be wort getting it checked

A long shot but it could be thattvthe car has lost its recognition of the key and hence the immobiliser is kicking in?

Ok. Was just a suggestion as it worked for me