skomaz

Check the bonnet hinges for play when shut. I had an annoying rattle on my MX5 that turned out to be a worn hinge that was rattling slightly.

John Bee would be a bit more upmarket than Westside but as you say I codnt recommend them after an experience a long time ago when I got a repair back that leaked badly after they forgot to seal between body panels. Westside seem straight and down to earth though and I'd go back again with no qualms.

Do you mean paint spraying and bodywork or just detailing. If the former I've used two recently: Fix Auto near Malock who were good but slow on an insurance job but pretty expensive when I contacted them direct about another issue. Westside Motors in Sharrow, Sheffield who are a bit 'backstreet' but gave good results at very competitive prices the last twice I've used them.

If that's the case and you know you haven't spilt anything then as said above reject the repairs they are suggesting in relation to the shifter - and maybe ask them slyly why they investigated something unconnected with your 12v issue without notifying you and what their technician has spilt 😁. Once you have the car back it should be possible to get someone else to scan for any shifter related codes, clear them (if the dealer hasn't already done so to cover their tracks) and see if they come back.

In that case, and if everything is working as it should be (which I assume to be the case since it wasn't taken to the dealer for a fault related to the shifter), decline those particular repairs and ask for the vehicle back. Then carry on as normal? If necessary you could clean the area yourself and the relevant connectors but if there are no functional issues then leave them be. I may be, as @OccyVRS has suggested they plugged a code reader in and found a historic logged fault code that hasn't been cleared and is causing no issues but decided to investigate anyway off their own back to try and create some work / income..

I'd also ask them to demonstrate how any liquid damage to the components listed would lead to an issue with the 12v charging system as MHO they are talking *******s and trying to connect unrelated issues.

Let me know how you get on.

That sounds very similar to ours but I've managed to largely solve it by tightening up the socket 'springs', nipping up the cable plug so it connects better and leaving the cable connected. There are diagrams for getting at the socket that I have somewhere... but I have no idea where at the moment.

That's one hell of an improvement though even if it's not perfect! I'd suggest you get a grilled for the mouth pretty quick if you can as the radiator is pretty exposed if you're using it regularly on country roads. 👍

Ah... I've never noticed that when I've been over visiting the MIL and we've been tripping about but then I've probably always filled up in the north before heading off. Something to just keep an eye on them over time??

The tears will leak into the car but are easy to repair from the inside. As for E10 be careful there as there are odd reports of hoses failing due to the high ethanol content. I've switched to E5 on my Mk1

Presumably like many of the 'newer' brands they'll come to you or do a pick up and drop off.

What are they - I like Vinyl...

Very ugly, cheap and nasty design IMHO - and very 'hippo' like. The Chinese do much better than BMW these days.

If it's anything like other Skodas just take it for a drive and do a full left lock to full right lock and back turn of the steering wheel.

Take a look at teh rear wiper gromet between the wiper spindle and the glass - that's where our Kodiaq was leaaking - between the gromet and the glass.

Unlucky...

I reckon this could be bang on and is pretty typical of the sort of electrical failure you described. It's a known design fault and a relatively easy fix as I seem to recall a repair kit being available for the Fabia that had longer wires to overcome the problem of vibration pulling them apart at the connector. To me it sounds like the temperature lights are doing what they should and the back liquid dripping from the exhaust is simply condensation mixed with exhaust residue within the exhaust itself.

It's simply a very crude temperature guauge... Cold or below normal operating temperature range /. In range / too high or low coolant level.

Just ignore them. They are used to check for water leaks during production and are not removed and served no other purpose.

What's the brake fluid like? They share the fluid between the clutch and brakes and that sounds a bit like air in the system or a leaking clutch release cylinder.

The radio reception issues will probably need a new aerial base to sort them out. It has an amplifier built in to it and they can suffer water ingress which corroded the circuit board and stops them working.

Pete has beaten me to it... With a MK2 you should be fine. You'll probably get some error messages initially but a drive around the block and a full left full right turn of the steering should clear them.

That's par for the course - The part of the rear lights on the boot lid only illuminate in higher spec versions - it's the same with all models - Octavia through to Kodiaq etc.

That'll be down to gear ratios and, if I recall correctly and you're talking about 0-60s, whether a gear change is necessary. I still maintain that the issue is how quickly the DSG take up is from standstill after you press the throttle and how that is controlled by the electronics, as opposed to having that control via a manual and clutch (a manual it can be partially engaged before you even press the throttle whereas a DSG will only engage after you press the throttle. Just my experience from driving both versions...