'Water Ingress Problem'........SOLVED!

[andras.orban]

Hiya all,

Does anyone want to give me a hand do all my wiring and seat removal.

I am offering good beer money. Thanks

We could do it one day,i need to have it done as well :-)

[submit00]

Hi

I have 2003 superb elegance and both front n back left door are stuck locked. Electrical windows work on these doors.

Things tried so far:

-WD40

-light 'bump' nudge

-pulled door handles in/out

-tried keeping lock up with pliers but no luck

-diagnosis suggests no signal being sent from coms unit

I have run out of ideas to sort this.

Is there a way to release doors open.

I know this may be due to either water ingress, sunroof rain water drain blockage.

I need to release doors so that the front passenger seat can be removed and wiring examined along with drying of carpet and main unit.

Other probs:

-door lights don't work for a while

-door puddle lights don't work

-fuel flap switch not working, currently manually release from boot, boot switch working strangely

I am not all technical minded and don't possess all tools.

Need advise and help on how and where I could get this sorted asap, already been 3 weeks with no left side door access and 7 month pregnant with and 3 year toddler. Need all doors and seats soon.

Located in Leicester.

Help, help, help!!!

[greggy]

We could do it one day,i need to have it done as well :-)

The problem is I live in South Yorkshire. Lol

But if you fancy coming up you will be made welcome.

[BillTheViking]

Just joined to say thank you for all the helpful posts and guides.

 

I had all the signs of water ingress in my 03 Superb (minus visable water in the footwell, though a lot of people say its only noticable after lifting the underlay) and this helped me get down to the loom and CCU and showed me how to prevent any more water getting in! 

 

There was water under the battery though that was all cleared away, there was suprisingly NO water under the carpet and no visable corrosion to any wires. Thanks to the help of the forum I have ruled out the water ingress AND have now hopefully taken the right steps to prevent it happening in future.

 

I do how ever still have some electronic probems; 

 

-No light in the boot, footwells, front interior, or puddle lights.

 

-Reverse sensor engages when put into reverse but only beeps once and doesn't actually measure any distance.

 

-Rear passanger door LOCKED and WILL NOT OPEN.

 

A friend of mine is going to check each wire to the ccu with a multimeter and also in the passanger side pillar, any other suggestions?

 

Also does anyone know how to take the covers off the reading lights above front seats?

[Tdi1.9]

Hi Bill,

 

I resealed the pollen filter seal and checked under my carpets when I first bought my Superb ('05 AVB).  Under the carpets was dry and I thought all was well, but a month or two later I noticed water on the paint in the door sills and then resealed all the door window carriers and in doing so realised that the rear puddle lights were not working.

 

A couple of weeks ago I decided to investigate and thanks to Baker21 and Nackuk's excellent posts, I removed the passenger seat and lifted the carpet.  All was dry, but when I began to look in more detail I saw some tell-tale green stains on the harness binding, and when the binding was removed I could see signs of corrosion inside the silly crimped "node" sleeves.

 

How on earth did VW/Skoda imagine crimping was a reliable way to make connections?  It reminds me of those cheap car audio and car alarm people who would either crimp or use scotch-lok connectors, so guaranteeing you would be back again in a year or two.

 

All of this is just to say don't think that because it's dry now, it's all OK.  Look further and examine the crimped joints.  Then, while you are there, you might as well cut them out and solder them together properly safe in the knowledge that you won't be having to go there again.

 

Tdi1.9.

[bussty]

I know this subject is as stale as an old loaf of bread but when resealing the filter housing are you removing the old seal then filling with sealant or sealing over the old seal ?

[jimbof]

I think you'd want to remove it.

I can send you some of the proper sealing cord for postage money if you like - I have the remainder of a whole pack in the garage.

[ronatholl]

My superb interior has no water ingress on the carpet ae rea but windscreen is fullof condense in a morning when i looked in the battery comp are it is swimming in water at least a pint but cannot find the drain anywhere im assuming its blocked up with debris?

[Gaz]

My superb interior has no water ingress on the carpet ae rea but windscreen is fullof condense in a morning when i looked in the battery comp are it is swimming in water at least a pint but cannot find the drain anywhere im assuming its blocked up with debris?

 

Drains are under the battery plate and under the brake servo.

 

Water ingress, if it has happened will be under the carpet in the passenger side.  It can hold gallons before you see it above the carpet!

 

A good check is to get your fingers under the air vent that is under the front passenger seat.  You can feel down to the floor pan - watch for the edges of the plastic because they are sharp!  If it's not bone dry, you have a problem (well you have a problem anyway, but a much bigger one).

 

Gaz

[098Joe]

Nice thread. I just bought a Superb before Christmas, not had a chance to look at pollen filter housing yet but did look under drivers side and it is damp under carpet, can the water get both sides from pollen filter or is it a different problem do you think?

 

Cheers

Joe  

[oh_superb]

Bad news.. It's trickling down the bulk head.

First thing to do open bonnet and remove the bonnet sealing strip and pull the trim under the windscreen off. This will expose brake servo, battery and what have you.  See if your battery and brake servo are sitting in water.  If you have a couple of gallons in there, then remove battery and remove battery support plate (3 x 13mm screws) then underneath you will see a drain plug.  Remove.

If you do not have the battery sitting in lots of water, then most likely your pollen filter seal is perished.  Remove the pollen filter housing, give the metalwork around the hole a good clean, get a new seal and a tube of silicone, and be generous.

Also don't forget to dry the carpet out.

I had the same problem 4 years ago, drop me a note if you need help.

[ronatholl]

Anyone had a problem with electronics on Skoda Superb 07 plate , locked the car with key fob alarm went off,re set it ,came out half an hour later and all the windows had opened themselves ?? wierd good job it was'nt raining at the time

[mikey457]

Seeing a few others posting I figured I'd better go ahead and do this. Something I've been meaning to do for ages but what with one thing or another have never gotten around to.

It's technically an easy job, but bloody awkward in reality. The fact my battery is a large heavy duty thing didn't help either.

My plenum chamber drains were partially blocked, but thankfully bone dry. One had leaves in it, the other just awash with dust and dirt.

The pollen filter foam seal was partially perished but I doubt had let water in yet. Resealed with half a tube of silicone sealant. With a several interruptions it took a grand total of three hours. If I had to do it again tomorrow, without interruptions I reckon you could halve that time. Annoying though it takes that long to get to the offending parts and only 5 minutes to fix the parts themselves. Speaking of which here is the foam seal and one of the plenum grommets.

Wanted to say thanks for the info to all contributors.

Great stuff Guys, I noticed my rear drivers side footwell was very wet and I looked at this topic. I took off the battery cover to find it full of water, I removed the battery and the plate under it and found the water release was totally bocked! (there's two of them). I modified it so it should never block again and now trying to dry out the carpets in the back of the car which may take some time to do. I ve got towels placed under the rear footwell trying to soak it up! This where I need your help again. I am trying to get the pollen filter out but having difficulty getting to the two side bolts, how do you remove the plastic moulding under the windscreen to get to the bolts?

[Tdi1.9]

Yes, mikey, you need to remove three nuts that hold the pollen filter mount in place .  If you look at the penultimate photo in post #73 further up this page you can see the three studs that they fit on, and in the last photo of the plastic mount you can see the hole (on the left) and the two slots (on the right).

 

The plastic moulding at the bottom of the windscreen unclips.  Often they are broken by screen-fitting people, causing them to leak.  Removing them is a combination of force and careful persuasion.  Best to try when the plastic is warm and more pliable.  In principle you hold the front edge and twist it upwards.  The groove it fits in will need to be cleaned out before refitting the plastic moulding.

 

Not a disaster if you break it, a new one from Skoda is £16.85 plus VAT (part No. 3B2819415EB41 on my invoice).

 

While you're in there, revove and reseal the bottom of the ECU box on the driver's side.

[rotodiesel]

The windscreen people broke my scuttle trim too - the idiots thought I wouldn't notice.

 

Don't waste your time with "Skoda" - the local VW dealer will have one in stock. Mine was 3B2 819 415E and a bit cheaper.

 

VAG recommend lubricating the groove before fitting the trim. I would only do this job with warm plastic as it's hopelessly brittle.

 

rotodiesel.

Edited 31 January, 2014 by rotodiesel

[mikey457]

Hi, Yes I managed to break it but it was very cold this morning when was trying to remove it gently. At least it's not too much to replace! I just glued it back together at the moment.

 

Now the alarm is going off at night so I take it that's some thing to do with all the water inside the carpets!

 

I looked under the passenger front seat to find the black box which was dry and had a hair dryer under the carpets for a good 3 hrs trying to dry it out! 

 

I didn't look under the drivers seat, so I will have to look under there and reseal the ecu box aswell.

 

I didn't see any corroded wires as yet, but I not sure where I should be looking. I check the load of wires behind the kick plate in the passenger side and all looks ok.

[marcpat]

Hi all iv basically the same water ingress problems but iv fixed repaired all wiring but still no Windows interior lights etc etc..please help as I have test on Friday and dont want car to fail, I put up a post about 4 or 5 down from this 1... Thanks

[mikey457]

Hi, goosd news the car is hjust about dry. but does anyone know where the wiring for the central looking is located as that's the only problem i have at the moment. I ve done all the node on the passenger side of the car and soldered all of them together. 

[mikey457]

I found this really helpful as water had got into my ccm. I have just finished cleaning up the terminals and i am happy to say that has solved the problem!

 

 

 

 

 

I posted a while ago about having no central locking and interior lights after the water ingress problem and have now managed to fix the problem so will post a few pics for anyone who has had the same issue. I accept no responsibility for solder burns, VAG-rage etc.

Tools:

Toothbrush
White wine vinegar
WD40
Paperclips and/or terminal extraction tool
Pliers (to cut and strip wire)
Crimping pliers (must be able to crimp wire as small as 1.5mm)
Soldering iron etc
Some spare copper wire

Time: 2 hours
Rage attack level: 2 (out of 5)

This probably the best info on the web about how to do the preventative maintenance for the water ingress issue on Passat/Skoda Superb so well worth a read beforehand:

http://nackuk.blogsp...hts-puddle.html

The only thing I would add to that is to make sure that you use proper VAG putty cord to seal the pollen filter. Silicon sealant does not form a good bond with the painted metal of the car and over time it will perish and the water leak will happen again.

I'd already done this about a year ago but just before Christmas the following symptoms appeared again over about a week:

1) Interior lights did not come on when door opened.
2) Interior lights stopped working altogether.
3) Remote central locking became intermittent.
4) Remote central locking stopped working altogether.
5) Alarm would not disarm, even when the car was unlocked with the key. Only disarmed when engine started.

I knew this was a recurrence of the water issue and electrics damage but all the nodes in the passenger footwell were intact, so I turned to look inside the CCM and found that there was corrosion on the inside of both the multiplug connectors and inside the CCM itself. Agh.

There are two multiplug connectors that go into the CCM, one with 23 pins and one with 15. Here's a list what they all do: 

https://sites.google...n/b5-ccm-wiring

So time to learn how to repair...

There was corrosion on several of the connectors actually inside the CCM. I scrubbed off all the green goo with an old toothbrush and some white wine vinegar, and it all came off pretty easily although it was clear that the connections were very badly damaged, especially for the red and black wire (S144 fuse for alarm) and the brown and orange wire (CAN low).

All that green goo used to be copper wire...



As you can see, I am not the best or neatest at soldering. In fact I only started to learn to solder when I bought a Superb haha but I soldered new copper wire in to bridge the gap between the corroded terminals. You can tell the soldering iron tip I used was a bit too broad as I burnt some of the plastic but it did the job and that's all I care about:



Extracting the terminals from the multiplugs is a complete and utter pain in the ar*e to be frank, but it's worth doing. I used a couple of paper clips to remove the larger terminals which come out quite easily but there are tools that will do it too. There's a much better guide on VAG terminals and how to extract them from multiplugs here: 

http://www.4130-prod...iring/index.htm

I had a problem where the CAN low wire terminal was so rotten inside the plug that it broke while still inside which led to a fit of rage and in the end I had to drill it out it was so rotten.

You can tell here where some terminal female connectors are starting to corrode through damp because they have that greenish colour to them:



So once the terminals are removed from the multiplug it's pretty simple. Cut the corroded wire back to good copper, and crimp/solder on a new female terminal. Here's what one looks like before it's slotted back into the multiplug:



I made a mistake with this one where the bottom end of the terminal wasn't quite crimped over the wire cover, only over the bare copper. This made it weaker and so I redid it before inserting it into the multiplug. 

The parts you will need can be found here:

http://www.vehicle-w...terms.php#round

For the larger connectors the part number is 3-8050 and 3-8020 for the smaller terminals. They just crimp onto the end of the wire and click back into the multiplug but make sure they are the right way up (so the prongs on the female terminal will clip onto the male terminal on the CCM).

This took me about 2 hours to replace the corroded terminals and cost about £15 in parts (almost all of it was the cost of having the new terminals posted out but very quick delivery). Happy to say that the CCM is now working as normal and I have all my lights back and a properly working alarm. 

[mk2cliffy]

My dad is having problems with his ccm, after replacing it with a brand new one he is still getting the same problems, any ideas what it could be? One by one he is losing lights, electric seats etc

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[Cown]

It's the wires going to the ccm. Check Them all individually.

[SuperbPaul]

Brilliant topic.Went to local garage and asked them to check why the seat isnt working- i was told CCM is burnt out. Lying ******s !!!! I have carried all this work this easter weekend- thank god it was sunny :sun:  all days as it took me 2.5 days to do everything fully. Now housing is sealed with TEC7, nodes soldered and heat shrink wrapped and CCM cleaned with circuit board and electric contact cleaner. Perfect- everything works, seats back to normal, all lights on and windows not sticky. time consuming job but worth doing.

thanks everyone who contributed. Cannot have any more information- thanks lads

[Tdi1.9]

Congratulations on the perseverence, SuperbPaul.

 

Out of interest, how much did the garage quote for the "burnt out" CCM, and were they a specialist Skoda/VW garage?

 

1.9Tdi

[rajsta]

This has really wound me up today, Although my car has never suffered from water ingress I decided to renew the pollen filter seal.

I've spent ALL day trying to get the lower windscreen panel off and it just isn't budging.

I've taken the wiper arms off, also the plastic bits that fit over the bonnet hinges and also the slide on clips underneath the panel.

What am I doing wrong? Is it easier to break it off?

[jimbof]

Perhaps some fool has glued it on for you?!

It pulls straight up at 90 degrees to the screen pretty much.  It is just a flat bit of plastic pushed into a tight metal U, which is itself glued to the bottom of the screen.

The times I've taken it off I've used a flat plastic jemmy like the following to get an end up (be careful not to put too much pressure on the screen , you could crack it...) http://www.cleverproducts.co.uk/bojo-blue-genius-10-piece-trim-removal-tool-kit-snap-on-off-trim

I've never had a problem with the trim breaking, but I hear it is quite brittle.