only 100bhp  :wonder:    150bhp at least or so I heard 

As above, lightweight wheels would be a must for me - OE in look but something light like flow formed Turini's perhaps.

 

These?

 

Any photoshops about on what they'd look like on a yeti?

I haven't forgotten to weigh one of my wheels Richard, I still don't have working scales :(

Speedline or Compomotive is where I'd look for lightweight, but strong. Designs tend to fit in with OEM for me too.

My 8x18 Turinis were just under 9kg per wheel, excluding tyre to give you an idea. Skoda 18" designs, Zenith and Neptune are 12-13kg.

These?

Yeti Turini.jpg

they are the ones. Really good quality wheel and around 4kg down on an OE 18" iirc. Also, used to run OZ superleggaras - not quite so OE but another really nice option for quality and weight. I can confirm they also bend as opposed to shatter in an 'off'!

You could have a look at the ATS motorsport wheels. Should be light and are used a lot in autosport (here at the ring).

 

http://www.ats-wheels.com/ats_wheels/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=51&Itemid=59〈=en

 

Here are some of the weights:

 

http://www.ats-wheels.com/ats_wheels/downloads/kataloge/ats_motorsport_2011.pdf

All the race derived OZ Racing, Sparco, and Speedline rims (as above) would work with the right offset. You need light weight, strong rims with sufficient clearance for calipers and discs. Looks are secondary.

 

If you want an OEM look, slap some Skoda badges on, and nobody would know...

As you ripped everything out of the car, you could drive on the anapurnas to and from the track. Set of trackwheels inside the car with a hydraulic jack 

How about weighing the Matterhorn's and the Annapurna's? May be some difference there.

If not try a set of OZ superturismo lm or superturismo Dakar rally ones

As you ripped everything out of the car, you could drive on the anapurnas to and from the track. Set of trackwheels inside the car with a hydraulic jack

Bossfox arrives at Brands Hatch :

I need to figure out a way to jam the rear windows up so I can remove the electric motor, mechanism etc...

 

Run a bead of silicone around all 4 edges on the inside

 

Or fill the door with expanding foam !

It's pretty cool.

 

You can cycle through three (or more, by setting up more) screens with four display items per screen.

There are loads of things you can choose to show.

 

I've got screen two as the four cylinders for misfires which meant I could actually see which coil pack was failing as the car coughed.

I could see the rate of misfires adding up on cylinder three as it happened.

 

Screen three I've got more trouble shooting stuff, like being able to see when the car pulls the timing for some reason.

 

It is a very good bit of kit!

 

Ooh I like that

Not saying a mk2 Fabia is a bit on the tall side or anything...

 

 

FFS, can I guess you was there today? Popped in to have a quick catch up, wish I'd known, wanted a trot around the block in that baby  :p

FFS, can I guess you was there today? Popped in to have a quick catch up, wish I'd known, wanted a trot around the block in that baby  :p

 

I popped in to get my gearstick (again) as the previous owner fitted a cheap internet bling one with a silver plastic top that clicked when I changed gear.

First time I got a 5 speed like my Mum's Greenline... :no:

Popped into Kaizer Motor in Kent today to see my old R35 GT-R tech and all round top bloke Sly, who got in early to do a full geometry check and adjust on the Yeti.

With the adjustable ball joints on the front (on maximum) it's now running 1.5 degrees of Camber all round.

 

Run a bead of silicone around all 4 edges on the inside

 

Or fill the door with expanding foam !

I have removed the winders from the Golf and the mechanism. In its place I have used 1/2" plastic conduit cut to fit from the door bottom to about 1" up the glass, then cut a slot across top of the conduit so the glass fits in it, window stays up nice and tight but can be released if needed.

 

 Like this;

 

 

Nice, I bet the camber adjust will help even more on track. You've taken an r8. What next?

Nice, I bet the camber adjust will help even more on track. You've taken an r8. What next?

Badly driven 2CV?

You could do that in reverse

Richard,

I am not entirely sure how far you want to take this project. 

I do not think I am discovering anything here ( and I did not spot this mentioned here before) by suggesting the following.

1. You are already into lighter panels, which is a standard practice for weight saving.
2. Acrylic windows save substantial amount of weight and are very good for weight distribution but make the car noisy, but please see point 3
3. Getting all the sound deadening out - not a daily driver unless, like I sometimes do, you like driving with your headphones in your ears
4. Installing light weight fuel tank
5. And the last one, only partially mentioned by Jason, is to help with weight distribution as your corner scales show very light rear at the moment. As Jason suggested move the battery to the back, move all the reservoirs to the back from the engine bay and everything else that can be rerouted to the boot. Moving radiators to the back helps a lot as well

Question is how much of a track car do you want to make it

 

Very nice project and those moments of "was that Yeti just passing me?!?!" must be worth all the money, time and trouble to get you where you are - admire your perseverance, especially while having the Citigo still in the works. Your family must be really understanding!

 

Keep up the good work.

1. You are already into lighter panels, which is a standard practice for weight saving.
2. Acrylic windows save substantial amount of weight and are very good for weight distribution but make the car noisy, but please see point 3
3. Getting all the sound deadening out - not a daily driver unless, like I sometimes do, you like driving with your headphones in your ears
4. Installing light weight fuel tank
5. And the last one, only partially mentioned by Jason, is to help with weight distribution as your corner scales show very light rear at the moment. As Jason suggested move the battery to the back, move all the reservoirs to the back from the engine bay and everything else that can be rerouted to the boot. Moving radiators to the back helps a lot as well

Question is how much of a track car do you want to make it

 

1. Looking at, yes.  Just working out the £££ per kg and if it's worth it.

2. I have struggled to find these for a Yeti, considering the rears are bonded and need to look right.

3. Still thinking about it as it's not a daily driver.

4. Not sure it's worth the hassle as stock tank is plastic.

5. I don't think you are right, it's not very light on the rear end.

It's got a bigger bum than the Fabia and a 4x4 system under there.  I doubt it's worse than a stock car like a Fabia and handles well.

I understand your generic move everything to the back ideas like we've probably both seen a lot of rallycross cars do, but radiator etc.. ???  It's not a mad stripped out thing, it's a Yeti with a bit of lightening.

 

Nice to see you back.

Shame you can't make Briskoda How Fast 2014.

My neighbour is a specialist car glazier, I will ask him about acrylics replacements.

Wasn't aware the tank was plastic, perhaps not worth fiddling with. At competition level they all go for honeycomb or whatever it is called multicell sponge like tanks to make cars more stable.

If it's not a daily driver then there is nothing to think about

As for the weight I was going by your scales readouts and thinking about 50/50 weigth distribution. 

The rads were a bit of a "wild" idea hence me qualifying "how far do you want to go with it?" . Still, very popular, simple and effective provided you have appetite to do it Could be made very stealthy  . Mind you, if you do not want to move them perhaps replace with more efficient, light weight alternatives?

As for the mad stripped out thing then indeed, wrong thread, Citigo is the right place .

 

Nice to be back and yes, wish I could do the 16th but impossible unfortunately. I will however do HowFast? afterwards to see if I can improve my times with Brembo pads, lower springs and RS-R rubber on lightweight rims!

Speedline or Compomotive is where I'd look for lightweight, but strong. Designs tend to fit in with OEM for me too.

My 8x18 Turinis were just under 9kg per wheel, excluding tyre to give you an idea. Skoda 18" designs, Zenith and Neptune are 12-13kg.

they are the ones. Really good quality wheel and around 4kg down on an OE 18" iirc. Also, used to run OZ superleggaras - not quite so OE but another really nice option for quality and weight. I can confirm they also bend as opposed to shatter in an 'off'!

 

Having chased and tried to get the Speedline Turini, I've been told now by two different sources selling the Turini that they don't make these in the correct offset or a suitable fitment.

 

So I am looking at these, which come in at 7.7kg each in 17x8.  TSW, which I have to import from the USA.