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The Twins. (And Yeti RS)


BossFox

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Here are some of the shots that didn't make it into my "squirrel-themed" photo story in the track forum... 

Coming onto the main straight behind one of those pesky Caterhams

Backing into the pit garage to cool down a bit

One of the organiser's cars about to get the BossFox treatment

Time for another rest

Billy no-mates

Cropped close-up on the main straight (that's speed blur, that is)

There was some awesome machinery on show that day

 

Great day, YETI VRS surprised so many people again with not only it's straight line speed but it's ability to hang on through the corners too!

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Short vid of a decent session.

Excuse the inane rambling I do when I get a captive passenger. :)

 

it was a good day and thanks for the rides :)

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PB Brakes = awesome service yet again.

 

Wanted a set of replacement discs as a back up with another Brands day, the big Briskoda meet at Blyton and Bedford How Fast over the next six weeks.

 

Messaged on Facebook, got a response an hour later.

Half an hour later price agreed, paid and shipping out tomorrow.

 

:thumbup:

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Since the Yeti is going so well on track and feels very planted, thoughts have turned to a bit of a power boost.

 

Currently I am here, 1.8tsi APR stage 3.

 

5a62.jpg

 

What I am now looking at is how feasible it is to exchange the 1.8tsi for the 2.0tsfi that the Audi TTS/S3 and Golf R have.

 

Fitting the stage 3 kit to those results in this:

 

kr5lu.jpg

 

On a very basic level this would involve increasing bhp and torque by roughly 25% to 30%.

 

Currently on a feasibility fact finding mission...

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Since the Yeti is going so well on track and feels very planted, thoughts have turned to a bit of a power boost.

 

Currently I am here, 1.8tsi APR stage 3.

 

5a62.jpg

 

What I am now looking at is how feasible it is to exchange the 1.8tsi for the 2.0tsfi that the Audi TTS/S3 and Golf R have.

 

Fitting the stage 3 kit to those results in this:

 

kr5lu.jpg

 

On a very basic level this would involve increasing bhp and torque by roughly 25% to 30%.

 

Currently on a feasibility fact finding mission...

You've possibly already considered it but why not just change the internal bits in your current 1.8 to make it the same as the 2 litre VRS/GTI is or is that simply not enough extra for you? You could always (loathed as I am to suggest it with my past experiences of doing it...) run forged rods and pistons for big number gains but it would still essentially be the same block - nice and easy. If I was going for bigger figures on a standard block id just drop in a current S3/R four cylinder 2 litre in there - great internal changes and standard 300ps and almost the same torque before its even stage 2/3 upgraded and mapped - with no need for forged bits in your current motor? :)

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You've possibly already considered it but why not just change the internal bits in your current 1.8 to make it the same as the 2 litre VRS/GTI is or is that simply not enough extra for you? You could always (loathed as I am to suggest it with my past experiences of doing it...) run forged rods and pistons for big number gains but it would still essentially be the same block - nice and easy. If I was going for bigger figures on a standard block id just drop in a current S3/R four cylinder 2 litre in there - great internal changes and standard 300ps and almost the same torque before its even stage 2/3 upgraded and mapped - with no need for forged bits in your current motor? :)

 

Having spoken to a few people this morning it seems the easiest (by far) option is to upgrade my 1.8tsi to a 2.0tsi of the CAWB variety that uses similar engine management.

This is the engine from the facelift mk2 Octy VRS.

I can forge that for strength and then it will make around 410-420bhp which is probably about right for the car.

 

The 2.0TFSI is going to be a bit more tricky and time consuming while the 2.0tsi is almost a drop in job...

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You do realise that if you make it much faster you'll have to start using assumed names when booking track days as you'll scare everyone else away.

 

I'll try to bring a camcorder to the next track day so you can get an idea of how quiet the Yeti VRS is from the outside compared to most of the other cars on track.

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Having spoken to a few people this morning it seems the easiest (by far) option is to upgrade my 1.8tsi to a 2.0tsi of the CAWB variety that uses similar engine management.

This is the engine from the facelift mk2 Octy VRS.

I can forge that for strength and then it will make around 410-420bhp which is probably about right for the car.

 

The 2.0TFSI is going to be a bit more tricky and time consuming while the 2.0tsi is almost a drop in job...

Maybe I wasn't clear in what I was saying but if you want to go to the step of forged internals then its a lot further on than what I was really thinking about perhaps - power wise. Our TSi and the 2 litre tsi uses an identical block but with a couple of different internal components that give it the capacity difference hence why I suggested just swapping those or for big figures, just using forged versions of them... you get to keep the same block in place, swap some internal components and run 400bhp reliably. :)

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Maybe I wasn't clear in what I was saying but if you want to go to the step of forged internals then its a lot further on than what I was really thinking about perhaps - power wise. Our TSi and the 2 litre tsi uses an identical block but with a couple of different internal components that give it the capacity difference hence why I suggested just swapping those or for big figures, just using forged versions of them... you get to keep the same block in place, swap some internal components and run 400bhp reliably. :)

 

Well I never knew that.

What about the head, injectors etc... ?

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Well I never knew that.

What about the head, injectors etc... ?

Yup, do check me over but I've had two tuners confirm this to me - Shark went through comparing differences when I did mine as it was a route I considered - tbh not for headline power figures, I just that I thought the turbo would feel nicer lower down having really been sized for a 2 litre block and got hung up on APR's low end torque figures ie how long it took to spool etc. Capacity difference is with the rods apparently and the VRS/GTI gets very slightly thicker gudgeon pins. head not sure but cant remember specifically checking that - injectors will be of no use to you anyway at that level? You don't have to faff with swapping other electrical elements ie ECU and coding by keeping this block (although it would be straight forward with a 2 litre TSI block too tbh). Unless I've been misinformed I just couldn't see the sense in you swapping one block to another, which is essentially the same and then start on replacing the only elements that were different between the blocks in the first case! Any car I've ever dropped a built/forged motor into, I've fallen out of love with it (oil usage, sewing machine audio track until its properly up to temperature and of course can bring a weight increase in the rotational stuff) tbh so I always try to stay standard on a block and internals that have already proven reliable BUT your use of the car is very different to mine so I'm with the plan on this one :)

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The "plug and play" aspect was the main reason for the 2.0tsi, due to it using the same management.

But thinking about it I will probably source a 2nd engine anyway so I can get everything ready for the change over, such as getting the new engine ready/built up etc...

 

What I want to avoid is having it off the road, as it's my only properly brisk Skoda at the moment as I don't want to miss any of the events that are lined up.

 

I'm running a forged engine in my Skyline and haven't had any of the issues you mention like noise or oil usage, although that is a straight six.

It sounds nice, goes well and is a pleasure to use on a daily basis.

 

With the Yeti I can handle a bit of compromise as it's just a fun toy really, it really is a laugh on track days.

 

Thanks for the info, it's appreciated. :)

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Should be no reason for any different noise using forged rods if they're rifle drilled

Rods? No, it's the pistons that gave me the typical piston slap when cold - basic physics though - higher output, more heat generated so uprated forged pistons are needed where the standard cast ones would just go too soft. Because they can take more heat they'll end up expanding more in the cylinder hence they have to be very slightly smaller to allow for the full clearance when fully hot/expanded. So before they're up to that ideal operating temperature you can get piston slap occurring, something I didn't like on previous fully forged builds but that my own personal dislike :)
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