Good plan. Could you make the too part of the dash out of fibreglass and get it flocked?

May save additional weight

 

Not a bad idea, need to see what they look like in person first though.

Good plan. Could you make the too part of the dash out of fibreglass and get it flocked?

May save additional weight

 

Pfff! Dashboards are SSOOOOO overated! 

Couple of pics to update.

 

 

 

The windows are being sent off for light replacments, jobs with longer lead times attended to first.

Plus more stuff removed.

 

Haven't started on the dash yet, but already it's running weight is down over 60kg from what I managed.

Plenty to go still...

I am optimistic the finished vehicle with the TT-RS running gear will be 1,250kg or less.

 

As soon as the canbus scan is done the engine/drivetrain will be dropped.

Those roof rails must be a few kg each up high at the worst spot? :P

Those roof rails must be a few kg each up high at the worst spot? :p

 

They are a "design feature".

They are a "design feature".

Exactly, a Yeti without roof rails is just not how it should be

Let someone make them out of carbon fibre.  :p

Since you got serious about weight savings perhaps revisiting my earlier suggestions could be back in the picture - remove all the ancillaries from the engine bay and relocate to the boot area, cannot get rid of them but can certainly improve weight distribution.

I see you decided to go with glass replacement, always a very straight forward weight saving.

Next step would be to replace as many bodywork panels with lightweight ones, glass fiber, carbon fiber, light metals, pick your poison .

Purpose designed lightweight exhaust system will save you kgs at the front as well as seriously improve power potential of the engine as you can get it made to suit your preferred power band of the engine. 

Since you are chasing ponies here a relatively simple mod of changing valve springs to stiffer ones and spending lots of time making sure valves are 100% sealed against the seats will open up a potential to map it for higher red line due to higher compression values and lower valve float.

Question is where do you want to stop really

Since you got serious about weight savings perhaps revisiting my earlier suggestions could be back in the picture - remove all the ancillaries from the engine bay and relocate to the boot area, cannot get rid of them but can certainly improve weight distribution.

I see you decided to go with glass replacement, always a very straight forward weight saving.

Next step would be to replace as many bodywork panels with lightweight ones, glass fiber, carbon fiber, light metals, pick your poison .

Purpose designed lightweight exhaust system will save you kgs at the front as well as seriously improve power potential of the engine as you can get it made to suit your preferred power band of the engine.

Since you are chasing ponies here a relatively simple mod of changing valve springs to stiffer ones and spending lots of time making sure valves are 100% sealed against the seats will open up a potential to map it for higher red line due to higher compression values and lower valve float.

Question is where do you want to stop really

And at the end of it you've still got the air resistance equal to a barn

Also if you replace the engine oil with whale semen, it will reduce all engine resistance and allow the engine to rev to 10,000rpm

Also if you map the ecu to compensate for flux capacitor internal reluctance transorb oscillations it will allow you to produce so much torque the world will stop spinning and reverse

Since you got serious about weight savings perhaps revisiting my earlier suggestions could be back in the picture - remove all the ancillaries from the engine bay and relocate to the boot area, cannot get rid of them but can certainly improve weight distribution.

I see you decided to go with glass replacement, always a very straight forward weight saving.

Next step would be to replace as many bodywork panels with lightweight ones, glass fiber, carbon fiber, light metals, pick your poison .

Purpose designed lightweight exhaust system will save you kgs at the front as well as seriously improve power potential of the engine as you can get it made to suit your preferred power band of the engine.

 

It's working out where to spend the money.

Light panels are expensive and I want a functioning bonnet without pins to keep it shut.

There is rather a lack of ready made light Yeti panels on the market.

 

The battery is going into the boot as there is a ready made hole for it, the pucture repair kit has a large box recessed under the floor.

Aircon is being removed.

Alternator swapped for a lighter one.

Etc...

 

The aim is to get it as light and balanced as possible without throwing a blank cheque at it.

 

We are talking 320-350bhp/tonne before the driver climbs aboard, which should be OK, for a shed like vehicle.

After all, if building the ultimate racer was the plan you would throw a blank cheque at it... and you wouldn't start with a Yeti.

Also if you replace the engine oil with whale semen, it will reduce all engine resistance and allow the engine to rev to 10,000rpm

Also if you map the ecu to compensate for flux capacitor internal reluctance transorb oscillations it will allow you to produce so much torque the world will stop spinning and reverse

I think you're confusing this with the 2.0 MPI engine which had this fitted as standard.

I know the aircon weighs a lot. But if the weather is good and your on a track, a little bit of cold air could keep you sharp.

But if the stints arent that long, you could do without the cold air.

Also if you replace the engine oil with whale semen, it will reduce all engine resistance and allow the engine to rev to 10,000rpm

Also if you map the ecu to compensate for flux capacitor internal reluctance transorb oscillations it will allow you to produce so much torque the world will stop spinning and reverse

However, if you were so inclined, your own produce would make it frictionless!

Flux capacitor's Higgs boson saturation curve profile adjusted for photonic spin compensation as a result of Chrenkov's radiation seepage interference would produce that extra 10hp you were looking there for.

Conversely a well worked on dump just before the track time might, just might reduce the weight of the whole system below the threshold of relativistic effects which this Yeti is surely to inhabit

Edited 4 December, 201411 yr by Jabozuma

However, if you were so inclined, your own produce would make it frictionless!

Flux capacitor's Higgs boson saturation curve profile adjusted for photonic spin compensation as a result of Chrenkov's radiation seepage interference would produce that extra 10hp you were looking there for.

Conversely a well worked on dump just before the track time might, just might reduce the weight of the whole system below the threshold of relativistic effects which this Yeti is surely to inhabit

While also having the side effect of allowing the driver to concentrate properly on the driving!

Or the easiest thing is just pay the professionals to build him an awesome Yeti if their other work is anything to go on

Or the easiest thing is just pay the professionals to build him an awesome Yeti if their other work is anything to go on

Are Bodie and Doyle a bit short of work nowadays then?

Edit -

Things are moving on...

 

Things are moving on...

 

Are you having a lighter screen fitted also?

 

I know a lot of rally cars stopped changing the glass to perspex as the OE glass got thinner (and therefore lighter) so there was less of a weight difference, the bulk of the weight saved is in the mechanisms to make them open. 

 

 I know the TTRS titanium exhaust system has quite a weight saving 

Are you having a lighter screen fitted also

Yes.

Is it possible to get a heated one fitted? That way you can remove the blower. I know bill Badger5 did this on his Ibiza cupra race car but needed to buy 5 screens to make an order...

Well at least you'd have spares I suppose. Either that or build a fleet of Yeti TT/RS's... make one hell of a parade lap!

Is it possible to get a heated one fitted? That way you can remove the blower. I know bill Badger5 did this on his Ibiza cupra race car but needed to buy 5 screens to make an order...

Not sure, but I want a small blower anyway to take the chill off. As the Yeti excels in winter conditions.

Not sure, but I want a small blower anyway to take the chill off. As the Yeti excels in winter conditions.

Gloves + crash helmet:) they will keep you warm.

But I always find if you aren't hot when getting out of the car you clearly haven't been working the car hard enough!

It will get hot in the car, as most of the Isolation is out.