That sounds fine.

Glad to hear it. It's easy to get over-sensitive with these cars...

Incidentally, I waited the 15 minutes after getting home (40km drive, so warm enough), then decided the car wasn't on a level enough section of my drive. I started it up, moved it about 15 metres (hope that wouldn't affect the reading?) and noticed the oil temp was down to about 75 degrees from 88.

The more I think about it, the more I wonder why VAG didn't set the oil testing to be done when stone cold. There are a lot of variables around oil temperature, length of journey to get "warm", and how long to wait after that journey. A few weeks back I had a reading of half-way down the cross-hatched section five minutes after stopping the motor; after a further ten minutes, the level was 3/4 of the way up the cross-hatched section. Had the level been at lower end of the dipstick, I might have added too much too soon.

Glad to hear it. It's easy to get over-sensitive with these cars...

Incidentally, I waited the 15 minutes after getting home (40km drive, so warm enough), then decided the car wasn't on a level enough section of my drive. I started it up, moved it about 15 metres (hope that wouldn't affect the reading?) and noticed the oil temp was down to about 75 degrees from 88.

The more I think about it, the more I wonder why VAG didn't set the oil testing to be done when stone cold. There are a lot of variables around oil temperature, length of journey to get "warm", and how long to wait after that journey. A few weeks back I had a reading of half-way down the cross-hatched section five minutes after stopping the motor; after a further ten minutes, the level was 3/4 of the way up the cross-hatched section. Had the level been at lower end of the dipstick, I might have added too much too soon.

I agree 5 minutes doesn't seem long enough - 10 / 15 seems right. It's a bit of a pain in the bahookie though - you need to get the engine up to temperature, find a level place to stop, then wait fifteen minutes.

I agree 5 minutes doesn't seem long enough - 10 / 15 seems right. It's a bit of a pain in the bahookie though - you need to get the engine up to temperature, find a level place to stop, then wait fifteen minutes.

I suppose everyone must be consistent with his or her own method of oil checking.

Its not much of a problem if you know the engine has 3.6 litres of oil in & where it is on the Dipstick when the oil is cold,

& then you know where the Oil shows on the stick after its been up to an indicated 88 0*C then stopped for 5 minutes.

But from my last request for people to say where the level is cold & the one picture from the Dipstick of a brand new replacement engine with the cold oil half up the stick,

who knows.

What is important is that the correct amount of oil is in to start with

& it only uses according to how its driven or uses no oil.

george

Never heard again from Wills about the new engine & the oil use. & this dipstick picture.

He was maybe just joking.

Hi guys sorry for being lazy, been following all comments by email. I am in the process of taking VAG to Vcat watchdog tribunal for misleading and deceptive conduct. Good news is I can represent myself and will not cost anything . The other good thing is a family member is connected with people high up in Volvo and Mercedes in Australia , so they are pointing me in the right direction. I have drafted a generic letter to go out to associated press . Spent $500 getting a 12 feet by 6 feet sight which wraps around my car stating the obvious buyer beware at the moment it's parked put the front of mine Sexpo is on next door to crown Casino so the amount of people seeing it walking to convention centre is massive. I am a happy person but so bitter that the have not offerd anything to fix the situation. So until the Vcat process will do what you have advised. VAG act like there is no issue with the engines and have everything so scripted. But the law is very clear here in Australia. Quite simply if they did not disclose that there was an issue with oil consumption . That is a breech of the sales act which is state and federal. So in short they think people will just forget about it . In Australia they only offer 3 year warranty and I bought the car to keep longer than that. They are very careful not to put anything in email which I was aware that's why I recorded the conversations.

Checked oil today and after the mod it is down and will not make first service at 15000 km which costs $600 Australian . I'm at 4200 km

Also having a flat spot when I go to put the foot down there is nothing this happens 5 times a week so would be great for feed back. Been driving a fair bit in manual . Also we have had some hot weather and oil temp gets over 100 degrees would appreciate feed back. Sorry I've been a missing in action but geeez I've been so ****ed of thought by getting away from hyundai to Skoda customer service would be better. Anyone in Australia watching and having the same dramas drop me an email.

Wasted so much time on this **** and the stress seriously this is insane. Good news is that anyone who has heard my story from layers to strangers and other sales reps from other car company's all believe its open and shut case in my favour.

Cheers Coops

To oz fabia

Mate u bought a brand new car in 2012 yes?

Why the f.... Are we checking oil in these things ?

I don't no anyone else who has bought a brand new car that has to top up oil this is crap if this was the case every service station would still have the oil top up facility but that has been gone for years.

My dad has had a brand new car every 3 years me four my mum 3 and so on this is the first time I've ever heard of this.

I ask u this? If someone told u to buy this brand new car with your hard earnt dosh and buy the way you will have to monitor the oil it will cos you oil your car will run out of oil your car will need to be towed your car will need engine modifications u will need to bring it 2-5 times during the first 5000 km u would say get f..... .

Your laws are the same as ours in Victoria if they did not tell you about this when buying the car the lied and they are liable.

I am telling you , u will have the dramas as me I hope not but you will especially when you start to get a week of high 30 s

Cheers coops

Well, I hope I don't get the same dramas... But I do hope you get your car sorted.

I'd done my research, so I knew some of the cars had issues, maybe even all of them to some extent. There's no excuse for not checking oil in any car, in my opinion. There may be even less excuse for the car to be burning oil on an ongoing basis, however...

Keep us informed, and maybe check out the Australian Volkswagen forum www.vwwatercooled.com.au/ , in particular the Polo 6R section, http://www.vwwaterco...au/forums/f128/ , as the Polo GTI of that model has the same problem. Those guys may have more info on how these cars go in Australia, and more importantly, how to deal with VAG in accordance with Australian law.

Edited 2 December, 201213 yr by OzFabia

Out in Australia where does the Oil sit on the dipsticks of your cars when the oil is cold,

and what is the ambient temperature there?

What oil does the engine have in, & where do you have it at on the dipstick when the engine oil is hot?

This is mine sitting on the top Orange marker when cold, 0*C outside,

3.6 litres of 5W 40 in the engine and at the top of the hatched area when oil is hot (Above 80*C oil showing on the car)

george

.

George, I'll check the "cold" oil level to compare.

Ambient temperature when checking has been as high as 35 Celsius and probably as low as 20 Celsius. I doubt the car will ever see below zero temperatures, but it may go close in the winter (will be interesting to see how it copes, given it can be a little sluggish when starting even at 15 Celsius). I tend to check fifteen minutes after a long-ish journey having at least seen 90 degrees oil temp close to home.

Oil brand... I'm not sure. I seem to remember seeing something about Skoda recommending Castrol Edge somewhere, either in the paperwork or perhaps under the bonnet - have to check that one too - but the dealer has Shell Helix on their service reminder sticker on the top corner of the windscreen.

Edited 2 December, 201213 yr by OzFabia

It does state in the handbook that they may use oil initially then will get better, dealer here and mechanics said same, although as said previously if you mother these cars they will use oil quite a lot , so out the box drive it reasonably but occasionally thrash it, simples

Well i have my new engine fitted and ran it for 300 miles. Checked today and so far not used a drop. Fingers crossed mines fixed. Also during the 300 miles i averaged 46 mpg weird.

I also used the manual gear change where possible high gears foot down for 200 miles then gave it some beans red line all the way. Problem with the former was the gearbox when in manual memorizes the 200 miles and changes up far too quickly as per my driving style. This has now been reset but very clever IMO.

Chemnitz Motorenwerke (engine factory in Chemnitz, Germany making 1,4 twincharged motors) churns out around 75,000 units a year for all VAG cars. As far as I am aware there is no other place on the planet making those motors - correct me if I am wrong please! This being the case they seriously have no excuses and must be perfectly aware of everything going down with those motors.

Arnold, I am glad your new engine is doing well! Keep us posted on what is going on. Can you ask at the dealership for injector part numbers from your old engine and new one for comparison. Having them I could ferret around hoping to unearth specs and see if there is a change, provided part numbers are different. This is to get a low down on bore wash problem caused by bad injector(s)..

I love that attitude of SCooper! Keep up the good work and do not soften the stance. Make sure you send a photo of your car parked there with that big vinyl on it to Skoda AU and your dealers !

Hi guys type of oil required in our cars depends on the service interverals. I was told not to negotiate at all with the specified oil. Apparently it has been developed and designed for VW . I buy it from Audi which is in an Audi plastic bottle it is the Castrol

Edge. Anyone using the shell brand oil in Australia is not abiding by the directions of Skoda Australia. I got told an hour ago that it must be using oil recommended from Skoda and she'll helix is not recommended for fabia Vrs mk11

Got to go ! dealing with another ****.

Sorry 5 w 30 long life

Well the Castrol recommendation is good enough for me: I'll use that for top-ups in future.

A bit of digging around on the Castrol Australia website found this, which is recommended for our car and is VW 504/507.

Castrol EDGE Professional Longlife III 5W-30

For overseas Briskies, be a little careful, as I believe there are Castrol products with a similar name but are NOT the same equivalent.

Doesn't matter what brand you use as long as it has VW 504 00 spec on it. All oils with that spec I managed to find are 5W30 SAE rated.

In Victoria it is impossible to by a suitable oil of the shelf in a auto store. It is also a worry when Skoda assist don't carry the that specific oil. Went through all this with the mechanic and he refused to put Nything else but 5 w 30 . The only way you can get it is to order it through a supplier or by it straight form Skoda VW Audi service departments. Funny that , greedy ....

Have a look here,

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-749-vw-50400-oil.aspx

All the oils there can be used in vRS on flexible service intervals.

Out in Australia where does the Oil sit on the dipsticks of your cars when the oil is cold,

and what is the ambient temperature there?

What oil does the engine have in, & where do you have it at on the dipstick when the engine oil is hot?

This is mine sitting on the top Orange marker when cold, 0*C outside,

3.6 litres of 5W 40 in the engine and at the top of the hatched area when oil is hot (Above 80*C oil showing on the car)

george.

Answers...

1. Not sure what oil it started with: Castrol of some sort is the suggestion. Plus 1/2L of Liqui Moly now as well...

2. First thing this morning I checked, car not started in more than 12 hours, and the level was at the very top of the cross-hatched section. Ambient temp. was approx 18 degrees. On Saturday evening, (and the car was hardly used on Sunday), after a long drive touching 95 degrees oil temp. in places and fifteen minute wait, the level was in the middle of the cross-hatched section. Ambient temp. was approx 21 degrees.

I suppose the next experiment is to do periodic readings, as it seems you can go from 1/4 way up the cross-hatched section 5 minutes after stopping, to halfway up after 15 minutes, to the top when cold... The only way to be sure of how much oil the car has used is to do your dipping in consistently the same manner, but even then it's pretty hard to drive exactly the same and arrange the ambient temperature to match every time...

I checked mine today, 50 minutes after I stopped, having gotten the oil to 90C. Oil was 3/4 up the hatched area (1400miles)

Last time I checked (10 mins after stopping) it was half way up the hatched area. (1100 miles)

But then again I checked earlier (approx 800) and it was half way up the hatched 10 mins after stopping and at the same place 5 hours later.

This is seriously annoying that oil can be going up and down like a yo-yo! Never had anything liek that in any other car I ever checked thae oil in!

I think I will jut stop checking as reading differe so widly thatthey cannot be relied upon - never seen a car with oil level going up depending on different factors :(. Normally, if oil goes up it means coolant leak or bore wash...

OzFabia,

Its good if it does not use any, or just a small amount consistent with the use the car gets.

You are able to see a point on the dipstick when the oil is cold & know where its going to be when hot.

I recon the difference cold between the top of the Hatched area cold & touching the Orange blob is only 100 - 200 ml

(i just happen to keep the oil at the max in mine, not over filled & its not using any.)

So for me bottom of or on the the Blob cold, which equates to the top of the hatched when hot, luckily.

george

In the two 250ml top-ups I've done, the level went from the 1/4 to 1/2 cross-hatched level, and from 1/2 to 3/4 cross-hatched level. I wonder if I should be leaving it another few minutes to check the level after topping up? Does it take time for that new oil to drop down into where it needs to be?

When i have done a Oil & Filter change & put in my 3.5 litres i run it & then top up a little later when hot.

Never really notice 100 ml on the stick untill the engines run again for a bit & then dipped.

Stupid stick to be able to read with clean golden oil.

I am quite happy once it has a bit of colour & its easy to spot.

To be totally truthful i am just happy that none is getting put in between Oil changes.

george

PS

Jabozuma, can you not receive PM's?

I didn't get anything for a while, will check now however it shows no new messages - full inbox?

EDIT: I was full, sry!

Edited 3 December, 201213 yr by Jabozuma