It's really hard to remove the plug when the rail is warm. When it's cool the plug will come off easily.

Weirdly I find the boost plug is the one I always have trouble with an end up resulting in getting a flathead screwdriver to give me a hand

Are you guys clip for the Rail Sensor on the Top or underneath that connector.

 

Crogers video looks like his clip is on the top making it easier as you push down with thumb while pulling it off, but if it's underneath like mine it's so tight  to get at it it's hard to get any purchase on it as you're having to apply pressure from underneath up with one hand whilst pulling with the other hand, unless Im on the wrong sensor?.

It's more of a squeeze together, but the clip I am removing is the one that comes on the kit, not the original, if memory serves on the original clip, the bit you push in is in th em idle at the top and yes it's very stiff

Ended up getting it off.

 

My other halfs smaller hands did the trick or she just had the better technique.

Think I would still be here this time next year trying to get it off.

That's good to hear, looking forward to your thoughts on the box!

Hi Guys, been lurking for a while after buying a new Oct3 VRS Estate Manual CRDT in June - lucky enough to order and receive the car in 7 weeks. Candy White, have Columbus and apparently some extra black bits. Looks nice - but I felt it was lacking a bit of oomph after having been driving a heavily fettled, but very thirsty, Volvo V70 D5 for a few years. The potential fuel saving was my main reason for buying the Octy.

 

Bought a Trevor soon after they appeared, managed to get the factory fuel rail connector off (yup, pain in the 4rse for me too!) everything else really, really simple to do. I've had Trevor fitted for about 5 weeks and have covered 3,000 miles with it installed - no more worrying about the car lacking power!

 

I've run, sequentially up through all power programs and settled on the 3 - for me its a really good balance of power and fuel economy. Most of my driving is M/Way based and the 3 gives me buckets of torque - very, very quick in 3rd onwards if you properly nail it.

 

The 3 can be a bit lively when accelerating the wet if your heavily footed, and the 3+'s are quite potent often causing the electrickery to kick in to keep it all facing and pulling in the right direction if you're having a quick run on a nice B road.

 

I run a wifi OBDLink scanner connected to my iPhone and get to log stuff as I drive and I've had no errors, warnings or unusual readings since having fitted Trevor so I presume its not obviously upset anything yet, although I do often get a marked step off (I presume in the boost pressure) at about 2-2.5k revs in 5th and 6th if I'm in steady traffic - it feels like a real hesitation kick and is not experienced in the same rev band in 3rd or 4th....weird and annoying but not too concerning (I hope).

 

Overall, pretty impressed with the box and it's as effective as the ECU remap I had in the v70 - similar results in terms of power increase, but I think these boxes are a little less subtle in the way they go about delivering it which is not a bad thing!

Any recommendation for who is best price on insurance once Trevor is fitted?

Any recommendation for who is best price on insurance once Trevor is fitted?

I paid only £60 per year more with Aviva.

Any recommendation for who is best price on insurance once Trevor is fitted?

give me a call as i have some useful info

Did any of you runing DTUK box noticed enlarged smell of regen inside the cabin?

I've actually been running the last 2 weeks without the box (no particular reason) and the smell doesn't seem any different.

When the box is off (no lights on), this is the same as the stock?

 

What are the differences between P1, P2 & P3?

I think if DTUK could clarify some points it would help a lot of current and potential future owners of the "Trevor"

What are the power and torque outputs for each setting ?

Presumably, you have extensive dyno testing done, a printout of each settings dyno graph would be useful

I've had a box on for 20K miles now, it took a fair bit of testing to find the ideal setting but I've done almost 10K on a Trevor now on the same setting with no issues and it goesike the clappers.

You normally get a print out with the unit showing how each Program is altering the boost and fuel pressure values the +/- 1,2,3 then are altering these figures by a set amount. I believe the Trevor also has the ability to just alter boost or fuel with the +/- if set to do so.

Give them a bell if your unsure, friendly bunch and able to explain things simply.

Hi

 

I am using Trevor also 

 

which setting have you found the best i use 3 +1

 

Cheers

Edited 23 October, 201411 yr by Beast

3 +1 is the recommended setting - But I found it gave only a small improvement over standard to be honest.

I have now tried 3 +2 and there is a noticeable difference from 3 +1. I have run this setting for the past 2-weeks and over a 250 mile round trip no problem.

Reports seem to show this setting may cause the eml to come on, but maybe with the colder weather arriving it can take it - time will tell.

 

Would like to get a chance to play about with the other Program setting 1 and 2 but not had a chance yet.

 

I have not noticed any smell from Regen inside the cabin.

Edited 24 October, 201411 yr by kewe

We had the ability to show the variations with the older CRDT but not with Trevor. I'm sure I explained a while ago and posted dyno feedback for the 3 maps in comparison to the old kit.

To recap

Old CRDT on 4 map 1 at 19.5 degrees ambient air temp produced 237hp and 505nm, several months later at 38.5 degrees the same kit produced 229bhp and 500nm

Same day same dyno same software but with Trevor

Map 1 plus 1 232bhp and 500nm

Map 3 plus 1 239bhp and 515nm

We always used to run 3 plus 1 on the Skoda but we found map 2 plus 1 felt even better on the road, a lot of it is driver and car dependant so again try all 3 maps and see which best suits you and your car

Trevor 2 +3 is interesting. Anyone else tried it?

I've tried the +3 on all maps in mine. TBH, yes it felt more powerful but the driveability suffered for it with the throttle becoming too On/Off and I had a fair bit of drivetrain rumble.

Back to +1 now, Sometimes Less is more !

Yes I don't plan to keep it on this setting but power delivery seemed instant and phenomenal. Didn't notice any negatives on drive or noise but does require a bit more thought on the metal pedal to get the power down without the traction control going nuts!

I can imagine Kewe, mine is only a lowly 1.6 and feels like it's at the limit of the 225s grip sometimes.

My problems have returned.

Spoke to DTUK earlier and was told my car has an air leak and that's why I had the original problems (even though they ran my previous box and got the same problems so I'm guessing they fixed their air leak). The chap I spoke to told me I've got to take it back to Skoda and there's nothing he can do.

Not really sure what direction to go now. I've checked the Audi forums and there are people in a similar position whose cars are affected in the same way as well as a couple on here. Either we are extremely unlucky and all have faulty boxes or there is something in common between all cars that won't run the box and I'm not sure what that problem is.

If anyone has had the same problems here who hasn't been in touch with me (a lot of you have via private message) then have you checked for an air leak? If so where should I look? I'm dubious about there being a leak as the coil light comes on when just turning on the ignition and the engine hasn't even started.

Edited 27 October, 201411 yr by JamesVRSmk3

James, have you cleared the fault before it comes back ? What is actually logged code wise ??

With the previous box the codes were cleared but came back as soon as the box was connected. Here are the codes previously. I haven't had the codes read this time (yet) as I haven't got the time to drive to the nearest guy with VCDS as he's an hour away. I'm going to try an arrange a time to see him in a couple of weeks.

4795 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)

P0101 00 [096] - Implausible Signal

Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

4817 - Leak in Air Intake System

P2279 00 [096] - -

Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

5169 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31)

P0238 00 [032] - Signal too High

Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear