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We've started having tinker with the 2.0TDI 184PS


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I only took it for a quick blast at lunchtime as I couldn't wait until the end of the day but **** me! Combined with Trevor it's actually an unbelievable difference...night vs day. Trevor transformed the car, the pedal box has perfected it. Instant power but smooth with it.

 

Being honest it was a problem I never knew existed until after fitting it but there is no way I can drive without the pedal box now.

 

Can't wait to finish work and take it for a proper blast this evening on the way home!

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I have only tested the one map which is the one I was running before getting it updated (2+1) but not sure if this map has been altered - It may only be map 1+2 which has been altered from reading previous posts on here but could be wrong. So far so good though. I am going to try some of the other maps (1+1 and 1+2) this evening which I was having issues with previously to see if they now run on my car - Other people were running these maps with no problems on their vrs TDI so hopefully I can too now.

 

One big difference compared to before is that a 1 minute delay has been added to the box before the maps kick in. I'm not sure if this is a standard thing now or just for me but I was having an issue with a coil light flashing when first starting the car - As soon as I pressed the ignition button (keyless) the coil light would flash. It wasn't a regular occurrence - Only twice in the last month or so but still quite annoying having to turn the car off and on again so this is hopefully a fix for it. Only started the car twice since refitting but no coil light so far. Time will tell on this but have my fingers crossed.

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Being honest it was a problem I never knew existed until after fitting it but there is no way I can drive without the pedal box now.

Thats my point entirely, nobody really thinks the slight responce lag exsists until they fit a pedalbox and its not the easest thing to fit on the O3 either so glad you like it James, what setting have you gone for ?

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Not quite sure. I didn't get a manual so struggling to work out what programme it is on.

What colour should the top light be on? Logically I'd guess red was 3 for fastest but it appears to light up right to left suggesting green is the fastest.

I'm guessing I have it on 3+3: Top light on green and 2nd light has all three lights on.

Edited by JamesVRSmk3
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James

 

Top row No light = Off, Green = Eco, Amber = Sport and Red = Sport+

Bottom Row Single Green = Curve increased by 1, Double Green = Curve increased by 2 and Triple Green = Curve increased by 3

Bottom Row Single Red = Curve decreased by 1, Double Red = Curve decreased by 2 and Triple Red = Curve decreased by 3

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Yes we were talking about the pedal box.

It looks like I had it set to Sport (Amber) yesterday not Eco but switched it to Sport+ this morning.

717105fdbb74081bfda24dd0a7412c44.jpg

It was like all 230 or so horses were trying to pull me when I just rested my foot against the pedal.

Loving the combination...loving it so much I managed my first sub 30 mpg in the car last night after a 30 min drive.

b036c132df71c36b289faa91380dab71.jpg

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I have never reached more than 70mph in England  :giggle:

 

On the autobahn last Summer I hit 139mph (223.7 km/h) but then it started raining and it spoiled my fun. The next day there was too much traffic to feel like I could drive THAT fast safely so never got a chance to see how much higher I could get.

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From my personal experience of running both over a period of 14 months the pedal box gives better consistancy, reliability and the better bang for your buck, trying to set the best combination between the CRDT box (Not TREVOR) and the pedal box is definately not a set equation, after months of pushing the boundries and experiencing problems I have settled for 3+1 (Box) and full sport setting (Pedal). I have run this for about 6 weeks and no issues.

Pushing my luck results in limp mode and dangerous lack of power when most needed...

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  • 1 month later...

Is there anyone with a crd-t box kind enough to upload a picture of the 4 different maps available with their box please? I'm not after dyno plots, but the red and yellow lined graphs with black backgrounds you should have with your purchase.

I have one, but it is the Cr170 variety. I'm just curious to know how the maps on the 2 boxes compare (map 4+1 appears to be a favourite with my box).

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  • 2 years later...

Hi guys.

I was wonderring if the topic is still active.
I checked this review here http://www.hypermiler.co.uk/diesel-tuning/diesel-tuning-skoda-octavia-vrs-184-tdi-dsg-dtuk-box-review-and-0-40-0-100mph-video
...in which I would some info about the remaps/chips. I then started to look everywhere on the Internet, mostly here on Briskoda, just to get some more info about all that.

I am left with  some conclusion now, but I need to ask a few things, which are very important to me and probably to many ppl.

I was looking into DTUK chip and I found more chips like that(Racechip.co.uk, Chiptuning.com, Tmcmotorsport.com). I belive that 2 companies even offer 2 year engine warranty, which looks good.

 

Now....lets get to my questions.
Many ppl are lead to believe that adding this device to their vehicle will NOT void their warranty, if you remove it before you send the car to the manufacturer(Skoda for example). I have read many comments on the Internet and many ppl suggested that even if this "mod" doesnt trigger "TD1 Flag"(remapped ECU), it still leaves some traces behind, afterall.
If you are using this device, and this device is making your engine to exceed its standard performance characteristics, and they monitor it, then it is obvious(to me) that they will say "hmm there is something wrong here and this car was putting much more pressure on the engine than it should have".

 

The question no 1. now is(  Andrew@DTUK ), if you engine/turbocharger blows and you send the car to the manufacturer(even if you remove the device), and they see that your engine to exceed its standard performance characteristics, what they will do ? Will they void the warranty ? Can they void the warranty on this basis, that they "dont like the characteristics they see" ?

 

The question no.2 is, I see ppl reporting that this DTUK chip sometimes leaves the car will fault codes(Camshaft Position Sensor (G40), Boost Pressure Regulation, Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor (G71) / (F96)). How to prevent this from happening and what will the manufacturer say(OEM level)  if you blow up your engine and they see these codes there and you ask them for a warranty repair ?

 

What answer can you give us Andrew ?

Thank you

Edited by fat4l
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