I will be replacing the cylinder head cover seal, since mine is leaking a bit. Is there an updated/upgraded one, as the one for the cylinder head gasket?

I will be replacing the cylinder head cover seal, since mine is leaking a bit. Is there an updated/upgraded one, as the one for the cylinder head gasket?

 

Current part number is 047103483

 

The rubber seems to go a bit hard over time and doesn't seal as well.

Thank you ! That's what I've ordered this morning, but I was thinking if there is a different manufacturer. There are two screws on the head cover with rubber seals under them (can be seen here) and those are leaking a bit as well, but I couldn't find any part number related to them. If I will try to tighten them a bit, is there anything I could break ?

 You could give them a little tighten but be careful not to overdo it. The torque setting for those nuts is 3Nm.

 

The part number for the little rubber seals is 047103532

Should I be replacing the nuts as well or only the rubber seals?

Should I be replacing the nuts as well or only the rubber seals?

 

Only replace the nuts if they are damaged. No need to otherwise. Make sure the metal washers are in place on top of the rubber seals too. Can't quite see from your pic but it looks like one may be missing?

By the way, did you look into the problem of your engine having excessive crankcase pressure? You could be treating the symptoms rather than the cause as excessive crankcase pressure will push oil out of places it shouldn't.

I did a compression test last Saturday. It's 14 - 12.8 - 14 - 14. It should be alright. The cap was being pushed out because I didn't mount the seal correctly. But now it's fine, the cap is no longer being pushed out. I've done about 1500miles since I fitted it and hasn't moved.

Is there anything else that I should check regarding the high crankcase pressure ? I'm not so sure what I should look for.

 

Later edit: 

 

1. the washers seem to be at their place

 

 

2. not relevant, but a short emissions test

 

 

compared to Autodata specs:

 

 

Lazzy me didn't connect the oil temp / rpm sensors, but I'm pretty sure the engine was well warmed up. 

 

2n later edit: If you're trying to take off the alloy wheels and it requires pretty much brute force and you've already taken off the studs(as it was in my case), take a brush and clean the rust from the outer side of the wheel barrow lip (car side) and the inner side of the wheel. Works like a charm ! I'm feeling ashamed I didn't do this a lot earlier. I've also laid a very thin layer of oil on both surfaces (careful with the disks!) in order to prevent this from happening again (along with a thin layer of grease on the studs).

Edited 23 June, 201511 yr by Alexandru

Oh yeah I can see the washers now.

 

Maybe check for blocked breather pipes for the crankcase pressure.

I thought we're talking about the one which goes from under the oil cap to the throttle body. Is there a secondary one ?

Edited 23 June, 201511 yr by Alexandru

I thought we're talking about the one which goes from under the oil cap to the throttle body. Is there a secondary one ?

 

The bigger one that goes to the plastic air intake thing. I doubt that one would be blocked though.

The bigger one seems to be ok. The other one should be replaced. It's clogged, old and broken. 

 

 

Is it 6Y0133518 ?

 

As far as I could tell, it is a one way circuit, from the carbon filter system to the cylinder head cover...please correct me if I'm wrong. I'd die now to have a schema.

Edited 23 June, 201511 yr by Alexandru

It just goes to a vacuum take-off on the throttle body.

 

It's number 14 on here but there is no part number as far as I can see.... http://www.partscats.info/skoda/en/?i=cat_vag_models&brand=sk&number=42&set=46&ein=2003&f=225&hauptgr=1234567890&hg=1&grf=013305225&bf=13305&hgug=133&ug=33&parent_id=44965&detail_id=44983

 

However, it's just 5mm internal diameter vacuum hose which you can buy quite easily.

 

 

 

Looks like yours has a hole in it? Don't you check stuff like that Alex? Your car will never run properly with vacuum leaks :S

The hole was right under the holding clip, so I had to take it off in order to notice it. I had them checked and double checked, I think I should have an appointment with my eye doctor.  :( However, a standard 5mm hose should do the job? Shouldn't it have to be resistant to HC and heat? 

Edited 23 June, 201511 yr by Alexandru

The hole was right under the holding clip, so I had to take it off in order to notice it. I had them checked and double checked, I think I should have an appointment with my eye doctor.  :( However, a standard 5mm hose should do the job? Shouldn't it have to be resistant to HC and heat? 

 

Haha

 

Standard vacuum hose is fine. Had it on mine for two years now and it's still perfect.

Would a fuel hose do the job?

Are you sure it's a 5mm diameter? After a bit of research, I've found that it should be p/n N 020 282 1 with a ø 3mm. 

Do you have any idea what that hose is doing ? What's the purpose for vacuum in there?

update: I fitted the new hose, but I couldn't notice any change in how the engine is running. It was running fine before doing this as well. TBH, I've pushed it a bit in this trip, managed a record of 35mpg on B roads. 

 

Do you have any idea what that hose is doing ? What's the purpose for vacuum in there?

 

Crankcase ventilation. Not sure of the exact need for two pipes though.

 

I'd guess the smaller pipe maintains a vacuum when the engine is idling to suck out crankcase emissions but not 100% sure.

Smaller pipe probably routes to below the throttle, because the bigger one won't do much if it's above the throttle, when the throttle is almost closed at idle.

Check that it does have some suck at idle, there's probably quite a narrow jet where it meets the TB/manifold which could block up over the years. 

Smaller pipe probably routes to below the throttle, because the bigger one won't do much if it's above the throttle, when the throttle is almost closed at idle.

 

 

Yeah, that's what I thought too.

Just had a look at some throttle body pics. It does indeed appear that the smaller hose is routed below the throttle plate.

 

As Wino says, check there is some suction at the rocker cover end of the pipe when the engine is idling, Alex. Also check there is no blockage at the barb on the rocker cover.

If that were blocked at the manifold it might well explain excess crankcase pressure at idle.

If that were blocked at the manifold it might well explain excess crankcase pressure at idle.

 

Indeed