Dashcam Switched Power

[Oli]

So I installed a NextBase 322 dashcam using the posts here as a guide. It’s a brand new camera, new sdcard and new hardwire kit all from NextBase. 
 

I have found one minor niggle in that it appears that when the battery is low on charge and the auto start stop system kicks in the NextBase camera reboots. 
 

I was wondering if there’s a better fuse perhaps to tap from that may not cut out during the ignition cycle. 

[Stonekeeper]

Many after market dashcams are set to switch off when the ignition is turned off/stops receiving the 12v feed.. You can sometimes change this setting in the cameras menus to allow the camera to continue to record for a period of time.

[Routemaster1461]

50 minutes ago, Stonekeeper said:

Many after market dashcams are set to switch off when the ignition is turned off/stops receiving the 12v feed.. You can sometimes change this setting in the cameras menus to allow the camera to continue to record for a period of time.

 

This is true, but unfortunately, Skoda, in their wisdom, have decided that all 3 (at least in my car), are permanently live. If I were to plug my dashcam into the front socket it would never turn off unless I pulled out the plug. Also, if I plug the dashcam into a usb socket, all that I get is a message saying that the dashcam is trying to connect to the 'computer'. I solved this by buying a power only usb c cable. Another issue is that I use a fridge on holiday, and having once, many yearsago, flattened the battery by my kids failing to unplug it overnight, I now use a lead which monitors the supplied voltage and switches the fridge off when the engine stopped and the supply voltage falls.

Edited 23 October, 2023 by Routemaster1461

[aubrey]

45 minutes ago, Oli said:

I was wondering if there’s a better fuse perhaps to tap from that may not cut out during the ignition cycle. 

I used the rear wiper fuse on my Yeti, that was ignition switched fine. Have you tried that one ? I'd expect the rear wiper to still function when stop/start was in stop mode.

I attempted similar on my mates Peugeot and found on that the rear wiper was only 12v when the wiper was activated on the steering arm. As if the fuse was after the switch on that Peugeot. Not very useful to only have a dashcam work when the rear wiper was activated. So I had to probe about with a multimeter to find a fuse that switched just with the ignition switch. I found one in the end.

So I guess I'd recommend trying the same, measure across fuse positions and find which can give you a 12v feed only when required.

Edited 23 October, 2023 by aubrey

[aidy55]

I would prefer to convert my 12v sockets to switched, is this not possible. 

 

 I would of thought just a matter of connecting the 12v socket cable to an unused switched fuse?? 

[Oli]

Everything runs on CanBus these days. The cars are wired in a specific way and expect certain power levels on certain wires and parts of the loom. 
 

To change your aux socket to something else isn’t as easy as swapping a wire. 

[aidy55]

I realise canbus can react negatively to changes being made but surely changing a device from permanent to switch isnt changing voltage levels, 

 

Its just stopping the device being active after engine switches off

 

[Breezy_Pete]

Correct.

[Graham Butcher]

I had similar issues with my NextBase dashcam but solved it with a 12v to 5v convertor from Amazon AITRIP 2 PCS Double USB Car Converter Module 12V to 5V 3A 15W Power Adapter DC to DC Reduced Voltage Regulator Car Power Converter Output Power Adapte: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo and hardwired this into the fusebox by connecting it to a ignition switched fuse so that when I start the car, dashcam and my TomTom satnav both automatically boot up and shut down again when the ignition is switched off.

 

The dashcam has an option to switch off after a short time delay after the supply is switched off, this I set to 10 seconds, the TomTom automatically does the same after 15 seconds of the power being killed. The convertor I fitted behind the glovebox and the power cords I ran behind trim pieces  and routed into a space behind the dash, by the passenger door and plugged into the convertor.

[pgp001]

I know this has been done to death, but I am after a small piece of information about hard wiring a dash cam please.

 

My dash cam is a Garmin 55 and has the parking mode wiring kit with it, I understand that fuse 47 is the best on to use for the switsched supply, but I also need a permanent supply for the park mode function,

Can someone please advise which fuse I would need to piggy back for a permanant live.

Thanks
Phil

[Graham Butcher]

23 minutes ago, pgp001 said:

I know this has been done to death, but I am after a small piece of information about hard wiring a dash cam please.

 

My dash cam is a Garmin 55 and has the parking mode wiring kit with it, I understand that fuse 47 is the best on to use for the switsched supply, but I also need a permanent supply for the park mode function,

Can someone please advise which fuse I would need to piggy back for a permanant live.

Thanks
Phil

Sorry to be a pain but are you positive about the Dashcam being a Garmin 55? Does it have any other name, like Garmin cam 55 for instance. I have searched around and all I can find is a Garmin Drive 55 which is a sat nav, and a Garmin Forerunner 55 which a sports watch?

 

Hold everything, I have found it, it is called a Garmin Dash Cam 55 

 

Edited 29 January by Graham Butcher

[pgp001]

Here you go.......
https://www.garmin.com/en-GB/p/567282

https://www.garmin.com/en-GB/p/587564/pn/010-12530-03
 

https://www8.garmin.com/manuals/webhelp/dashcam45-55/EN-US/GUID-E61F9D8E-687F-4AFD-802D-9C920E1A8A58-homepage.html

 

I have just removed it from my Yeti that I traded in against the karoq.

Edited 29 January by pgp001

[Graham Butcher]

14 minutes ago, pgp001 said:

Here you go.......
https://www.garmin.com/en-GB/p/567282

https://www.garmin.com/en-GB/p/587564/pn/010-12530-03
 

https://www8.garmin.com/manuals/webhelp/dashcam45-55/EN-US/GUID-E61F9D8E-687F-4AFD-802D-9C920E1A8A58-homepage.html

 

I have just removed it from my Yeti that I traded in against the karoq.

Sorry, but I don't have any other info about your car's electrical system, so I'm unable to offer you any further assistance.