3 minutes ago, Gabrielem said:

The roads in general are good, maybe that's why, at least I, I am hypersensitive to vibrations in the steering wheel, mirrors and others.

 

I use Android, my wife does use iPhone, but I almost prefer not to involve her in this because I have been a bit heavy with the subject for a long time ... Does that app work on Android?

 

no the app is only available for iPhones as there are only a few types of them with standardized microphones so you can provide an accurate measuring. with android every phone is different so it's more difficult. there is a bosh sound measuring app called Bosh iNVH which is reported to be good but you would need to calibrate it on your phone. I downloaded it quickly on my sisters phone and it was providing different readings than my iPhone app.

 

anyway I believe a lot of people on this forum are suffering from low frequency humming noise caused vibrations of the metal panels due to poor or coarse road surface. so if you are in Spain you are probably driving on smooth, concrete roads and I believe you might suffering from wind noise, would this make sense? How would you describe the noise that you would like to eliminate?

the roads in Ireland / UK are made of small stones  joined by some sort of asphalt. These roads are not smooth and this causes car panel vibrations, especially on larger size tires which have less rubber to amortize vibrations. Additionally there is road noise caused when the tires touch the road and compress and decompress air bubbles captured in the pockets on the road.

 

 

 

 

so today I completed my work on the floor. I laid Noico 2mm, carpet closed foam underlay as decoupler, and then MLV. This comes on top of the boot, the B Pilar and the two doors done a week or so ago. 

 

This was pretty challenging and I started on Friday with taking out the back couch and laying Noico there. This would have been very easy if it wasn't for the couch not wanting to slide out. I must have spent 30min trying to do what the workshop manual was telling me to do. Only once I applied my whole body weight the thing slid out from its sockets. Other than that it was the easy bit with just laying butyl

 

Next I proceeded to disassembling the entire console in order to be able to remove the carpet and the underlay beneath it. Unfortunately these are installed in such a way that it's impossible to keep the carpet and underlay intact without taking apart at least some bits of the console. So I entirely disassembled it. I think I was also partially driven to doing this by seeing multiple pictures on the internet with the consoles out.

 

Looking back this I think I would have rather cut the carpet and the underlay at the 1 or 2 narrow strip that go over the console to avoid the hassle. I believe such cuts wouldn't make a difference to the quality of fitting while would save me loads of time and allow to get the carpet out. Or perhaps I would not take the carpet out at all, I would just remove the seats and bend the carpet sideways to uncover as much floor as possible. While it would be inconvenient to work with it would probably do most of the job and save loads of time

 

Anyway, the console was out, so was the carpet and the underlay. I laid Noico beginning from the rear bench (number 4 in the attached picture) and going towards the front of the car.  Unfortunately I started running out of the material hence the very front (around number 3 in the picture), is covered only partially but still to a good degree.  A school error on my side but I was trying to use large, uninterrupted pieces of butyl so somehow lost count of how much was left. I should have started from the front. and work my back towards the bench.

 

Luckily there was already some sound proofing material laid there by Skoda and the very bit under the feet / the pedals has a thick rubber / foam mat.  I also added smaller strips to the sides and top of the console and other minor panels along the chassis. 

I stuffed hollow spaces around the seats (number 1 in the picture) with carpet underlay and this did a great job of sound deadening them. this also is very cost efficient as a big roll of carpet underlay is probably 20 euro and it can be stuffed in many other cavities in the car.

 

In the next step I put the decoupling layer using my carpet underlay. Unfortunately it doesn't bend as great as some of the dedicated materials I see on youtube but I think it did an overall good job. Finally I laid MLV sheets. The bit with the frame for the seat screws, I did not cover it so there is a break in MLV. I didn't glue MLV sheets together either. I saw people doing it with contact concrete to create impenetrable barrier but although I bought some glue with an intention of doing the same I started to run out of time and had to cut corners. I realised that since my MLV sheets overlap each other by quite a bit and because they are quite heavy and will be weighed down by a further layer of Skoda underlay + carpet there is no need to freak out about some potential gaps .So I taped the stuff together (the tape was really crap) and started reassembling the things. In the picture it is not finished yet and looks a bit crap but I tightened the fit later.

 

After having done the boot, the B pillar and the front doors I arrived at 73db-74db at 120km/h on my test motorway with coarse surface. This was a big noticeable improvement over the original noise levels whose db number unfortunately I don't know. At73db-74db we already found the noise levels acceptable (but not excellent) at the test speed and surface while we were pretty happy at lower speeds or on better surfaces. A reminder I have 18inch wide tires which simply came with the car.

 

Doing the floor and rear seat bench helped cut the level by around 3db on the test road and change the frequency of the noise to a much nicer, less intrusive one. 3db is quite a lot, I believe it could be approximated to around 30% cut in audible noise. 

 

Currently there is now markedly less vibrations coming from the bottom of the car and whatever comes is much, much easier on the ears. On other benchmark road parts with poor surface but lower speed limit the vibrations have stopped altogether while they were annoying before. 

 

Was it worth it? Yes, but perhaps doing the back arches would provide a similar gain with less work, this I won't know until I get there. 

 

There are a few lessons learnt.

As pointed by Digifish covering the entire rear bench in butyl might not have been the most efficient thing as the couch is made of a very thick foam which absorbs most noise. And this is true - after covering the rear bench with Noico I drove the car with and without the couch on and the difference is enormous.  So the couch itself is a great sound absorber and saving the butyl used on the bench and using it in the front might have worked out better. It would also save me a few hours of work

 

I would avoid taking the entire console out, I'd rather make two small cuts in the underlay and the carpet to remove them. Or I would just fold them to the side and laid Noico on the floors but forego sound deadening the panels on the console. That's my work-benefit analysis. This was a large part of work so it could be a good trade off to get some less sound isolation but saving yourself a hassle.

 

There was some collateral damage. I am getting an airbag error. I think this originates from me disconnecting some of the wiring directly under the seat before I figured out this is not the way to take the seats out. While I reconnected the thing possibly something went wrong, I will need to have a look at it again and I suspect I will unscrew the seat bolts to get good access to the bottom of the  seat. I will also check the cable box under the carpet.

 

I am also left with around 10 screws which obviously I forgot to put back in their rightful places. These most likely come from some obscure fittings. The console sits very well so I don't think these 10 leftover screws are a big problem.

 

The floor side plastic panel doesn't sit perfectly at the very forward end. The additional thickness of Noico+carpet underlay+MLV shifted everything up so one or two metal clips don't hold as firmly as before. 

Finally, the rear couch clicks out after a bit. Most likely the extra layer of Noico is an issue. The D-shaped hooks are not long enough to click in properly into the plastic grommets (number 4 in the picture).  I have put the child seat back so the couch is weighed down for now and clicked in. But longer term I might need to take the plastic grommets out, click them onto the metal hooks, and then put it all into the metal openings?

 

So I guess the next thing for me is to address that airbag error and in foreseeable future doing the rear arches, the bonnet and maybe the rear doors. But due to my wives pregnancy it might be weeks or even months before I get there. I don't have any noico left anyway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 14 June, 20214 yr by lukk

If you disconnect/reconnect an airbag, the warning light remains on until you reset it using a diagnostic tool.

2 hours ago, lukk said:

so today I completed my work on the floor.

 

Mighty effort thanks for sharing. 

 

I have to get my car on a lift as I have wondered if applying butyl from the underside would be an option. Not sure what's under the plastic shielding.

 

Would save a lot of work

Edited 15 June, 20214 yr by digifish

8 hours ago, lukk said:

 

no, la aplicación solo está disponible para iPhones, ya que solo hay algunos tipos de ellos con micrófonos estandarizados para que pueda proporcionar una medición precisa. con Android, cada teléfono es diferente, por lo que es más difícil. Hay una aplicación de medición de sonido bosh llamada Bosh iNVH que se informa que es buena, pero necesitaría calibrarla en su teléfono. Lo descargué rápidamente en el teléfono de mi hermana y proporcionaba lecturas diferentes a las de la aplicación de mi iPhone.

 

De todos modos, creo que mucha gente en este foro está sufriendo un zumbido de baja frecuencia causado por vibraciones de los paneles metálicos debido a la superficie de la carretera deficiente o áspera. así que, si estás en España, probablemente estés conduciendo por carreteras lisas y de cemento y creo que podrías sufrir el ruido del viento, ¿tendría sentido? ¿Cómo describiría el ruido que le gustaría eliminar?

las carreteras en Irlanda / Reino Unido están hechas de pequeñas piedras unidas por una especie de asfalto. Estos caminos no son lisos y esto provoca vibraciones en el panel del automóvil, especialmente en neumáticos de mayor tamaño que tienen menos goma para amortiguar las vibraciones. Además, hay ruido de la carretera causado cuando los neumáticos tocan la carretera y comprimen y descomprimen las burbujas de aire capturadas en los bolsillos de la carretera.

 

 

 

 

As you say, I think the main problem I have is aerodynamic noise.  especially the rear view mirrors.

 

 I already have the B-pillar clips (8 clips, 8 euros).  

 

Today afternoon (Spanish time), I'll get on with it.

 

 After a couple of days of use it is noticeable that there is no noise in the pillar, anyway I will put it noico.  then i will count

6 hours ago, xman said:

If you disconnect/reconnect an airbag, the warning light remains on until you reset it using a diagnostic tool.

Yeah I think this is whay I read on the internet. Well I will either wait for my next servicing or have it done by a a friend’s friend who is a car Mechanic. Ir can I download the software, buy a cable and do it myself? Will the airbags work if the cables are

connected but the warning light is on?

5 hours ago, digifish said:

 

Mighty effort thanks for sharing. 

 

I have to get my car on a lift as I have wondered if applying butyl from the underside would be an option. Not sure what's under the plastic shielding.

 

Would save a lot of work

Digifish were you happy with the result of doing the rear wheel arches from the outside? There is a lot of resonance there.

 

yeah applying the thing  to the  floor from the outside would be great. Please

do report your findings

Edited 15 June, 20214 yr by lukk

12 minutes ago, lukk said:

Digifish were you happy with the result of doing the rear wheel arches from the outside? There is a lot of resonance there.

 

 

Only worth it if you want to see what's under the wheel arch liner

 

The rear liner is a lot easier to remove than the front so its a good place to start on wheel wells.

 

However, to do it properly you need to remove a lot of wax which is tedious.  The liner is also felt so you can't really stick anything to that either. 

 

Coming at it from the inside of the vehicle would make more sense. but that involves dismantling the boot interior...also tedious.

 

So I would skip it. 

Edited 15 June, 20214 yr by digifish

51 minutes ago, Gabrielem said:

As you say, I think the main problem I have is aerodynamic noise.  especially the rear view mirrors.

 

 I already have the B-pillar clips (8 clips, 8 euros).  

 

Today afternoon (Spanish time), I'll get on with it.

 

 After a couple of days of use it is noticeable that there is no noise in the pillar, anyway I will put it noico.  then i will count

My guess would be that doing the doors, the bonnet and perhaps the roof would help most against it as this is what the wind hits when you drive fast.

 

i did the front doors and it’s a bit of a bitch to open the door card. Quite a few cables to disconnect and reconnect but can be done with some patience. My main issue here was unclipping small connectors which needed to be be pushed out using a tiny screw driver - you will need one. You will

also need one of those metal levers for uncliping, number 10 wrench and a small star screw driver (I cant remember the size) + patience. You will also need to disconnect the minus on your car battery

before You start working there.

digifish has an excellent video showing how to do it so go yo you tube and search by this nickname. I would advise you to have a small stool next to you so that you can put the door card on it at its original height while it is unclipped from the metal door but still connected by the cables which you will be disconnecting. 
 

Once I did the doors with noice and also out some carpet underlay rolls inside the outside noise has been cut greatly.

 

let Know if you have any questions but also do watch digifish’s video.

 

do you have the workshop manual?

2 minutes ago, digifish said:

 

Only worth it if you want to see what's under the wheel arch liner

 

The rear liner is a lot easier to remove than the front and to do it properly you need to remove a lot of wax which is tedious. 

 

Coming at it from the inside of the vehicle would make more sense. but that involves dismantling the boot interior...also tedious.

 

So I would skip it. 

I’m still tempted   how much butyl did you use there?

8 hours ago, lukk said:

so today I completed my work on the floor. I laid Noico 2mm, carpet closed foam underlay as decoupler, and then MLV. This comes on top of the boot, the B Pilar and the two doors done a week or so ago. 

 

This was pretty challenging and I started on Friday with taking out the back couch and laying Noico there. This would have been very easy if it wasn't for the couch not wanting to slide out. I must have spent 30min trying to do what the workshop manual was telling me to do. Only once I applied my whole body weight the thing slid out from its sockets. Other than that it was the easy bit with just laying butyl

 

Next I proceeded to disassembling the entire console in order to be able to remove the carpet and the underlay beneath it. Unfortunately these are installed in such a way that it's impossible to keep the carpet and underlay intact without taking apart at least some bits of the console. So I entirely disassembled it. I think I was also partially driven to doing this by seeing multiple pictures on the internet with the consoles out.

 

Looking back this I think I would have rather cut the carpet and the underlay at the 1 or 2 narrow strip that go over the console to avoid the hassle. I believe such cuts wouldn't make a difference to the quality of fitting while would save me loads of time and allow to get the carpet out. Or perhaps I would not take the carpet out at all, I would just remove the seats and bend the carpet sideways to uncover as much floor as possible. While it would be inconvenient to work with it would probably do most of the job and save loads of time

 

Anyway, the console was out, so was the carpet and the underlay. I laid Noico beginning from the rear bench (number 4 in the attached picture) and going towards the front of the car.  Unfortunately I started running out of the material hence the very front (around number 3 in the picture), is covered only partially but still to a good degree.  A school error on my side but I was trying to use large, uninterrupted pieces of butyl so somehow lost count of how much was left. I should have started from the front. and work my back towards the bench.

 

Luckily there was already some sound proofing material laid there by Skoda and the very bit under the feet / the pedals has a thick rubber / foam mat.  I also added smaller strips to the sides and top of the console and other minor panels along the chassis. 

I stuffed hollow spaces around the seats (number 1 in the picture) with carpet underlay and this did a great job of sound deadening them. this also is very cost efficient as a big roll of carpet underlay is probably 20 euro and it can be stuffed in many other cavities in the car.

 

In the next step I put the decoupling layer using my carpet underlay. Unfortunately it doesn't bend as great as some of the dedicated materials I see on youtube but I think it did an overall good job. Finally I laid MLV sheets. The bit with the frame for the seat screws, I did not cover it so there is a break in MLV. I didn't glue MLV sheets together either. I saw people doing it with contact concrete to create impenetrable barrier but although I bought some glue with an intention of doing the same I started to run out of time and had to cut corners. I realised that since my MLV sheets overlap each other by quite a bit and because they are quite heavy and will be weighed down by a further layer of Skoda underlay + carpet there is no need to freak out about some potential gaps .So I taped the stuff together (the tape was really crap) and started reassembling the things. In the picture it is not finished yet and looks a bit crap but I tightened the fit later.

 

After having done the boot, the B pillar and the front doors I arrived at 73db-74db at 120km/h on my test motorway with coarse surface. This was a big noticeable improvement over the original noise levels whose db number unfortunately I don't know. At73db-74db we already found the noise levels acceptable (but not excellent) at the test speed and surface while we were pretty happy at lower speeds or on better surfaces. A reminder I have 18inch wide tires which simply came with the car.

 

Doing the floor and rear seat bench helped cut the level by around 3db on the test road and change the frequency of the noise to a much nicer, less intrusive one. 3db is quite a lot, I believe it could be approximated to around 30% cut in audible noise. 

 

Currently there is now markedly less vibrations coming from the bottom of the car and whatever comes is much, much easier on the ears. On other benchmark road parts with poor surface but lower speed limit the vibrations have stopped altogether while they were annoying before. 

 

Was it worth it? Yes, but perhaps doing the back arches would provide a similar gain with less work, this I won't know until I get there. 

 

There are a few lessons learnt.

As pointed by Digifish covering the entire rear bench in butyl might not have been the most efficient thing as the couch is made of a very thick foam which absorbs most noise. And this is true - after covering the rear bench with Noico I drove the car with and without the couch on and the difference is enormous.  So the couch itself is a great sound absorber and saving the butyl used on the bench and using it in the front might have worked out better. It would also save me a few hours of work

 

I would avoid taking the entire console out, I'd rather make two small cuts in the underlay and the carpet to remove them. Or I would just fold them to the side and laid Noico on the floors but forego sound deadening the panels on the console. That's my work-benefit analysis. This was a large part of work so it could be a good trade off to get some less sound isolation but saving yourself a hassle.

 

There was some collateral damage. I am getting an airbag error. I think this originates from me disconnecting some of the wiring directly under the seat before I figured out this is not the way to take the seats out. While I reconnected the thing possibly something went wrong, I will need to have a look at it again and I suspect I will unscrew the seat bolts to get good access to the bottom of the  seat. I will also check the cable box under the carpet.

 

I am also left with around 10 screws which obviously I forgot to put back in their rightful places. These most likely come from some obscure fittings. The console sits very well so I don't think these 10 leftover screws are a big problem.

 

The floor side plastic panel doesn't sit perfectly at the very forward end. The additional thickness of Noico+carpet underlay+MLV shifted everything up so one or two metal clips don't hold as firmly as before. 

Finally, the rear couch clicks out after a bit. Most likely the extra layer of Noico is an issue. The D-shaped hooks are not long enough to click in properly into the plastic grommets (number 4 in the picture).  I have put the child seat back so the couch is weighed down for now and clicked in. But longer term I might need to take the plastic grommets out, click them onto the metal hooks, and then put it all into the metal openings?

 

So I guess the next thing for me is to address that airbag error and in foreseeable future doing the rear arches, the bonnet and maybe the rear doors. But due to my wives pregnancy it might be weeks or even months before I get there. I don't have any noico left anyway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

looking at the picture below from the internet our Russian friends were able to take the carpet out without fully disassembling the console. They just took the rear part of the console out.  They must have cut these two narrow strip of carpet and underlay that I mentioned and that go over the console. 

1 hour ago, lukk said:

digifish has an excellent video showing how to do it so go yo you tube and search by this nickname.

 

I wouldn't call it excellent more of a warning about what you are getting yourself into

 

I didn't show the technique of popping the door card clips or lifting the panel up/off after removing the bazillion connectors.

 

For me the main key, it shows you where to start and what lies beneath 

 

 

Just saw this... an Octavia, but almost the same as a Superb.

 

 

6 minutes ago, digifish said:

Just saw this... an Octavia, but almost the same as a Superb.

 

 

 

 

yeah, I've seen this. Some other links to superb 

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClP2R0S4-SkFpIq4Rpu0q7w              - an excellent channel where the guys shows everything step by step. he has a few skodas there but not the superb. The videos have Russian subtitles which can be autotranslated by youtube in real time to English. let know if you need help in turning the autotranslate on

Шумоизоляция — Skoda Superb, 2.0 liter, 2017 year on DRIVE2                 - article in Russian but you can use google translate

Шумоизоляция автомобиля Skoda Superb в Москве | Anti-shum.ru     - article in Russian but you can use google translate

 

1 hour ago, lukk said:

I’m still tempted   how much butyl did you use there?

 

I can't remember. More was on the rear quarter panel. 

 

2 hours ago, digifish said:

 

Solo vale la pena si quieres ver lo que hay debajo del revestimiento del arco de la rueda.

 

El revestimiento trasero es mucho más fácil de quitar que el delantero, por lo que es un buen lugar para comenzar con los huecos de las ruedas.

 

Sin embargo, para hacerlo correctamente es necesario eliminar mucha cera, lo cual es tedioso. El forro también se siente, por lo que tampoco puedes pegarle nada. 

 

Llegar desde el interior del vehículo tendría más sentido. pero eso implica desmontar el interior del maletero ... también tedioso.

 

Así que me lo saltaría. 

You don't recommend making the wheel arches from the outside?

No

 

This one is a great indication of the work required to dismantle the interior. Parts are 90% the same as the Superb

 

 

 

Edited 15 June, 20214 yr by digifish

6 minutes ago, digifish said:

No

 

This one is a great indication of the work required to dismantle the interior. Parts are 90% the same as the Superb

 

 

 

 

that 10pc difference is the console  way more complex on the superb. took my a good few hours to take it apart without breaking anything but I guess I could do it in a fraction of time. 

10 hours ago, digifish said:

No

 

Este es un gran indicio del trabajo requerido para desmantelar el interior. Las piezas son 90% iguales que las Superb

 

 

 

I plan to do it soon ... then I will do the doors and with that I will finish.

 

Well, this afternoon I finished the and improved the b-pillars,  knowing what to do does not take long.  

 

It is very hot in Madrid and the noico sheet can be extended by hand.

 

 I keep hearing aerodynamic noises and may have discovered a new noise.

 

 I realized when doing the passenger side that Noico can be put inside the pillar, so now I have one made and the other not ...

 

 

9 minutes ago, Gabrielem said:

I plan to do it soon ... then I will do the doors and with that I will finish.

 

Well, this afternoon I finished the and improved the b-pillars,  knowing what to do does not take long.  

 

It is very hot in Madrid and the noico sheet can be extended by hand.

 

 I keep hearing aerodynamic noises and may have discovered a new noise.

 

 I realized when doing the passenger side that Noico can be put inside the pillar, so now I have one made and the other not ...

 

 

But can you hear an improvement? 
 

if you hear a new noise this would indicate that you managed

to lower the overall noise volume so

that your new noise isn't masked anymore by the old noise you eliminated

Son ruidos aerodinámicos en la parte superior de las puertas delanteras y exterior del pilar B (no en el interior), además de los espejos retrovisores.

 

 Quizás hacer las puertas te hará sentir mejor.

 

I don't want to hear new noises at all ...😅😅

Edited 16 June, 20214 yr by Gabrielem

2 hours ago, Gabrielem said:

Son ruidos aerodinámicos en la parte superior de las puertas delanteras y exterior del pilar B (no en el interior), además de los espejos retrovisores.

 

 Quizás hacer las puertas te hará sentir mejor.

 

I don't want to hear new noises at all ...😅😅

 

funny you' answer above is in Spanish but in my mailbox it's in English. I am guessing that doing the doors would help but realistically you will always hear some noise. It's not a Mercedes S class. 

Could you please let me know at what speeds you start hearing this? And any chance you could borrow your wives phone, install that app for half an hour and let know the noise level?

3 hours ago, lukk said:

 

Es gracioso, la respuesta anterior está en español, pero en mi buzón está en inglés. Supongo que hacer las puertas ayudaría, pero de manera realista, siempre oirá algo de ruido. No es una clase Mercedes S. 

¿Podría decirme a qué velocidad comienza a escuchar esto? ¿Y hay alguna posibilidad de que pueda tomar prestado el teléfono de su esposa, instalar esa aplicación durante media hora y hacer saber el nivel de ruido?

The translator has played some tricks on me in this forum ...

 

I'm going to see if I can try the app you told me today.

 

Another thing.

 

Neither of the two belt height adjusters works for me, and I have left plenty of space so that it does not affect anything.

3 hours ago, Gabrielem said:

The translator has played some tricks on me in this forum ...

 

I'm going to see if I can try the app you told me today.

 

Another thing.

 

Neither of the two belt height adjusters works for me, and I have left plenty of space so that it does not affect anything.

Hey I know I told you that the belt adjuster and the plastic panel

adjusters must be at their highest level when putting things back together as this is what the manual said. But when I was putting one back 2 days ago it didnt work and I had to align them visually. Its a simple thing Ill

send you a pic sometimes this week to show the bits that need to be aalignsd. In any case dont worry, it will take you 10min each

Measurements at a speed between 100 and 130 there is not much variation.  measures in the radial highway m40 in Madrid an area with good asphalt.  I'm going to measure and on other types of asphalt