noise insulation

[Steviedakota]

10 minutes ago, Gabrielem said:

 

I did one of the front doors yesterday.  I made a rookie mistake by overheating the tweeter cap and melting it, tomorrow I'll look for another one that sure isn't cheap.

 

The change is brutal.  This is very noticeable, the noise reduction is amazing, considering that it really only had the driver's door finished.  I hope to finish 4 this week.

 

Doing mine in a few days, please post up any tips you picked up.

[Gabrielem]

47 minutes ago, Steviedakota said:

Haciendo el mío en unos días, publique cualquier consejo que haya recogido.

So far I have done, trunk, wheel arches and B-pillar. In these 3 steps I have not noticed a major change, but with only 1 door the change has been considerable.

 

It is nothing really complicated, but it does take work, especially cleaning well with solvent, cutting and flattening with the roller.

 

I have used Noico 0.4 and "kaiflex" from Aliexpress, I am not very happy with AE products, but for the price they have I cannot complain.

 

The worst thing for me has been removing the buttons from the driver's door windows, 2 more centimeters of cable would have been great.

 

Buy some staples because they break when pulling and cloth tape to remove shackles.

 

AE staples are not the same as OEM, and they do not fit well, so you have to use cloth tape, and they are perfect. Check each staple for movement and use cloth tape.

 

I have also put new speakers and tweeters (Focal) with the Columbus radio and the change has also been important.

 

When it's all over, I'll report.

[brettikivi]

good to know - I did Lahti - Kuopio with a full car on Saturday, then Kuopio - Lahti half empty Sunday and this morning, Lahti - Helsinki. 

 

Difference is significant. Saturday quietest, then Sunday and Monday was quite noisy. 

 

Now all I need to find is some time.

Edited 25 October, 2021 by brettikivi

[Gabrielem]

I have finally finished the doors (noico 0.4, 10mm kaiflex and 30mm wavy kaiflex) and now you can really tell the difference.  cars passing by can be heard far away, and driving close to a wall is not so unpleasant.  It has cost me a lot of work and I know I could have done it better, but for the time I had and myself, it turned out quite well.

[Steviedakota]

Both front doors done this morning. Went pretty smooth bar a few broken door trim clips. I suggest getting a bag of these before you start.

 

2 mm Noico with 5 mm Noico red closed cell. Hardest part was probably disconnecting the various electrical connectors, each one with different (why?!) and some more more fiddly than others.

 

Once the door card was off and the large plastic grommet removed I placed a layer of the 2 mm as far as my hands could reach. I wasn't able to get much below the crash crossmember as access was tight. I then applied some 2mm to the outside of the door skin and to the reverse of the door card, finally covering as much of the door card as I could with the closed cell foam. 

 

Did the passenger side first in case I made a mess of something. Also better to learn on this door rather than the door you'll be using most often.  Took about 4 hours not rushing.

 

Didn't take any good before and after photos unfortunately. Haven't driven the car but first impressions are are that it sounds more solid inside when slamming the door, outside the door slam sound is much the same though the door skin has a lovely solid feel when you tap it.

 

A couple of tips:

I used the round end of the 10mm spanner used for the bottom door nut, to press the 2mm in place, as it is hard to get the roller into the tight spaces.

 

Take pictures as you go of the various connectors as the last thing you want to do is to have the door card on and have forgotten one.

 

Don't forget having removed all the door card clips that the card pulls firmly upwards to remove.

 

When trying to pull the large plastic grommet out prize from one of the longer sides first.

 

[lukk]

On 24/10/2021 at 21:44, Gabrielem said:

 

I did one of the front doors yesterday.  I made a rookie mistake by overheating the tweeter cap and melting it, tomorrow I'll look for another one that sure isn't cheap.

 

The change is brutal.  This is very noticeable, the noise reduction is amazing, considering that it really only had the driver's door finished.  I hope to finish 4 this week.

 

I agree it makes a

difference. How did you melt the cap, did you use a heat gun?

[lukk]

I did the front doors some time ago and I was happy with the difference. My recommendations would be:

• get a small stool ready or something to support the door card when you are taking off, putting back while you are disconnecting the cables. or just trying to fix somethign without disconnecting all the cables
• you are likely to break a grommit or two. then ones I ordered from Amazon were too loose and did not fit properly
• I put rolls of laminate carpet underlay at the bottom. My mistake was covering the back of the speaker and putting too many of them so that the window did not open. This mean reopening the door. But even with fewer carpet underlay rolls it makes a nice difference. You can find pics of this back in the thread.
• I struggled tightening back  with the screw in the middle of the door card. I think it flipped (the nut) or something along these lines
• As mentioned by Steviedakota take multiple pics of the cable connections. They are actually hard to confuse once you do it but it still helps the first tie round. Do count them when disconnecting and reconnecting!
• I have still not completely  closed the drivers card door. there is an angle at which you have to put it back and if you dont the top corner next to the bonnet wont catch with the metal part of the door. It's nothing but esthetics though, the door functions just fine.

[Gabrielem]

3 hours ago, lukk said:

Hice las puertas de entrada hace un tiempo y estaba contento con la diferencia. Mis recomendaciones serían:

• Prepare un pequeño taburete o algo para sostener la tarjeta de la puerta cuando esté despegando, y vuelva a colocarlo mientras desconecta los cables. o simplemente tratando de arreglar algo sin desconectar todos los cables
• es probable que rompa uno o dos grommit. luego los que pedí a Amazon estaban demasiado sueltos y no encajaban correctamente
• Puse rollos de base de alfombra laminada en la parte inferior. Mi error fue cubrir la parte trasera del altavoz y poner demasiados para que la ventana no se abriera. Esto significa reabrir la puerta. Pero incluso con menos rollos de base de alfombra, hace una gran diferencia. Puedes encontrar fotos de esto en el hilo.
• Luché para volver a apretar con el tornillo en el medio de la tarjeta de la puerta. Creo que dio la vuelta (la tuerca) o algo por el estilo
• Como mencionó Steviedakota, tome varias fotos de las conexiones de los cables. En realidad, son difíciles de confundir una vez que lo haces, pero aún así ayudan en la primera ronda de empate. ¡Cuéntelos al desconectar y volver a conectar!
• Todavía no he cerrado completamente la puerta de la tarjeta de conductor. hay un ángulo en el que debe volver a colocarlo y, si no lo hace, la esquina superior al lado del capó no se enganchará con la parte metálica de la puerta. Sin embargo, no es más que estética, la puerta funciona bien.

The same thing happened to me with the anchors that I ordered on aliexpress, I suppose they will be the same from Amazon, I solved it with three small strips of fabric tape with a slit to fit into place, a positive set of these anchors is that they are thicker than the ones oem so they fit in the same way but they hold the inner door panel better.

As for the central screw, a magnetized key is necessary and if it does not screw in properly, you have to see if you have to pull up or lower the door panel because sometimes it does not fit well.

 

[Gabrielem]

4 hours ago, lukk said:

Estoy de acuerdo que hace un

diferencia. ¿Cómo derretiste la tapa, usaste una pistola de calor?

I foolishly used a heat gun to make tweeter removal Tweeter, but it wasn't necessary.  50 euros cost me a new one in the Skoda.😕

[Steviedakota]

One rear door down, one to go. So much easier than the front. All the tips for the front apply to the rear, just with fewer electrical connectors. Interestingly there is more factory sound installation stuck to the inside skin of the back door that the front. 

 

Broke two clips so really don't do this without spares.  Having heard that Amazon and Aliexpress versions sometimes are poor fitting I got some from Skoda around a euro each. I seem to have broken three on every door that I've removed so buy a few.  Also be sure to Hoover any broken clips out of the door, last thing you want is them rattling around in there.

 

The hardest part was actually removing the window switch as it is very tight and the gaps are tiny to get your pricing tools in. Make sure your pry tools are thin and it is best to pry up first from the long side rather than the rear, short end.

 

Door makes a lovely deep 'thunk' now closing. 

[Gabrielem]

Todo se seguirá escuchando pero más suave y el exterior más lejano y atenuado. No podrás hacer un estudio de grabación pero la mejora es notable.

[lukk]

To those who already did the floor in their cars - how did you close the plastic side panels? the clips are simply too short so mine are kind of open. any place to buy longer metal clips?

[Steviedakota]

8 hours ago, lukk said:

To those who already did the floor in their cars - how did you close the plastic side panels? the clips are simply too short so mine are kind of open. any place to buy longer metal clips?

Plastic side panels? Do you mean the actual door cards?

[lukk]

1 hour ago, Steviedakota said:

Plastic side panels? Do you mean the actual door cards?

More Like the side panels along the chassis next to the outer drivers / passengers

legs

[Steviedakota]

Quick update now that all four doors are done. Delighted with the results, definitely a bit quieter, the wife even commented on it, that is unusual! Between that and today's gear oil change car feels super refined. 

 

Would really recommend doing the doors if you enjoy a project and are bit OCD.

[lukk]

1 hour ago, Steviedakota said:

Quick update now that all four doors are done. Delighted with the results, definitely a bit quieter, the wife even commented on it, that is unusual! Between that and today's gear oil change car feels super refined. 

 

Would really recommend doing the doors if you enjoy a project and are bit OCD.

I've done only the front ones so far. Did you have a chance to test / measure the improvement once the back doors were also done? Wondering if worth doing it especially that I don't have any butyl left...

[Steviedakota]

I didn't take any scientific measurements but think the cumulative effect of doing the rear doors is worth it. There is a large surface area there to add insulation too.

[Gabrielem]

9 hours ago, Steviedakota said:

Actualización rápida ahora que las cuatro puertas están listas. Encantada con los resultados, definitivamente un poco más tranquila, la esposa incluso lo comentó, ¡eso es inusual! Entre eso y el cambio de aceite de engranajes de hoy, el automóvil se siente súper refinado. 

 

Realmente recomendaría hacer las puertas si disfrutas de un proyecto y eres un poco TOC.

Totally agree, yes, now you will hear other noises that you did not know before ... Now the noise that is most heard is that of the exterior rear-view mirrors.

[Gabrielem]

On 16/06/2021 at 20:07, Gabrielem said:

Measurements at a speed between 100 and 130 there is not much variation.  measures in the radial highway m40 in Madrid an area with good asphalt.  I'm going to measure and on other types of asphalt

I have finally been able to measure with the iPhone app that I measured the other time on the same stretch of highway in Madrid (M40). 

 

Measurements have been 61db at 90 km / h, 63 dB at 100 and 65db at 120 km / h, it has reduced it by about 6-7 db on average, a great success.  

 

To be honest that stretch of road is smooth but the gain I can extrapolate to any road.  

 

Remember that I have done, not at a professional level, trunk, B-pillar, wheel arches, engine hood and all 4 doors.  

 

It is a lot of work and about 200 euros, but it is worth it.  

 

The biggest source of noise today is the rear view mirrors.

Edited 21 November, 2021 by Gabrielem

[Steviedakota]

3 minutes ago, Gabrielem said:

I have finally been able to measure with the iPhone app that I measured the other time on the same stretch of highway in Madrid (M40). 

 

Measurements ha!  It has been 61db at 90 km / h, 63 dB at 100 and 65db at 120 km / h, it has reduced it by about 6-7 db on average, a great success.  

 

To be honest that stretch of road is smooth but the gain I can extrapolate to any road.  

 

Remember that I have done, not at a professional level, trunk, B-pillar, wheel arches, engine hood and all 4 doors.  

 

It is a lot of work and about 200 euros, but it is worth it.  

 

The biggest source of noise today is the rear view mirrors.

Having done the same it is the four doors, followed by the B pillar that seems to made the biggest difference.

[Gabrielem]

55 minutes ago, Steviedakota said:

Having done the same it is the four doors, followed by the B pillar that seems to made the biggest difference.

I would add the trunk as well.

 

But it is true what is most noticeable are the doors. Until I did the doors, the rest of the applications do not have a substantial improvement, perhaps an improvement can be seen but it is very small.

 

Those of you who have double glass on the front doors if you will notice a lot of improvement.

 

[lukk]

On 21/11/2021 at 22:29, Gabrielem said:

I would add the trunk as well.

 

But it is true what is most noticeable are the doors. Until I did the doors, the rest of the applications do not have a substantial improvement, perhaps an improvement can be seen but it is very small.

 

Those of you who have double glass on the front doors if you will notice a lot of improvement.

 

The floor and boot in my case made the most difference but I drive on coarse stretches. You noise measurement is similar to mine when I get on nice smooth surface

[mikevonz]

On 01/05/2018 at 12:45, JackySi said:

I wonder how big difference is it?
I would like to get rid of some road noise too, but problem is that in Slovenia I haven't found any person/company that would do additional noise insulation =/.

Hi JackySi,

as this is now 4 years old post, did you find anyone in Slovenia in this time?

 

best, Miha

[ApertureS]

4 hours ago, mikevonz said:

Hi JackySi,

as this is now 4 years old post, did you find anyone in Slovenia in this time?

 

best, Miha

Sorry to say but the user hasnt been online in over a year 😞 a reply is very unlikely

[whoartie]

My first post here. I have to say that the 21 pages of knowledge and wisdom accumulated here is astounding.

 

I did a few mods that some may find a little extreme. ST XA coilovers (I had a good deal for new ones), 245/40 R19 Conti Sport Contact 7 tyres and Racechip GTS to name a few. All these led to levels of NVH that are honestly quite bad, esp on rough roads.

 

Now that I have expended all my budget on the above mods, I went on to DIY sound deaden/proof my FL 2020 Superb. Following the advice here, I have done:

 

1) Bonnet (2 layers)

2) Boot (2 layers)

3) B Pillar

4) Outside Wheel Arches/Fenders (2 layers)

5) Front Floor (partial 2 layers. i didn't want to take out the console or front seats)

6) Driver's Door (2 Layers)

 

About to do the other doors, wheel arch inside, roof lining and probably seat bench.

 

I can say (according to my butt dyno) that the car has about the similar comfort levels as my old(er) 2013 Audi A4, plus higher performance and a whole lot more boot space. Yes, even with coilovers, it's amazingly comfortable at factory settings. I'm stunned! I had never imagined that the sound deadening would actually settle the vibrations and road feel.

 

Can't wait to do the rest!