Hi there,

 

My apologies for resurrecting an old subject on the Mk1 Fabia, but hopefully somebody can help me out .  I have a 2006 Skoda Fabia 1.4 16V Estate (she's done 110k).  Basically the drivers side window hasn't been working for 3 years and I'm in the mood to get it fixed.  I've read numerous threads on this so lots of this will sound familiar!!  Hopefully the facts below can aid in my quest to sort it out:

 

• There is no life at all, no grinding, no motor noise when I press the switch.

• Electric mirrors work fine

• Door lock button works fine

• Passenger side window will go DOWN from drivers side on ignition, but doesn't work after the engine is started

• Passenger side window works from passenger switch fine (just replaced the regulator, lets not go there!)

• Checked the wiring loom between door and car body but can't see anything obvious.  Unplugged and reattached.

 

Now, I've detached the drivers side switch and put a multimeter across what I think is the live wire and both the front and passenger window switch terminals to check for voltage.  Both read around 11 volts. This leads me to believe that the motor and/or its control unit is faulty which I know come as a single unit in the used parts market.  Before I go out and spend £60-100 on a used unit, is there anywhere else I should be testing to make sure this is correct?  Should I be testing at the motor itself as well?  

 

Any advice would be greatfully received, I am sooooo looking forward to grabbing those multi-storey car park tickets with ease!!!!! 

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Mike

Any of you lovely people have some advice? 

I don't think the problem is in the motor, a faulty window motor is rare. In most cases the cable of the mechanism is the real problem, and sometimes the window switches or the clamps which are holding the window.

 

If you really think the problem is in the motor, you can demount the motor of the mechanism and put 12 volt on the motor connector.

 

About the 11 Volt you measured: don't forget there is also a comfort module in between, there's no direct wire between the window motor and the accu.

Edited 23 July, 20187 yr by Fabia-format

Thanks for the reply Fabia-format. I've tried a new switch unit and that made no difference. Heard this comfort module mentioned before, where is that located?

 

Reason I thought the 11V measurement was significant was because the wiring diagram shows the switch connecting straight to the control unit/motor. Perhaps I've read it wrong then? 

 

Recently had a slight issue with the central locking working intermittently in wet/cold weather on the driver side. Could this be related even though they started years apart? 

 

Thanks

 

Mike

motor could be seized or poor earth maybe , you may have the door card with the bolts rather then the rivets in which case its  alot easier to remove the window and check the mech, do it in the good weather , dont wait until autumn/winter .

 

With the engine off , you may notice the igniion lights dim as you push the window switch , which could be a seized motor / mech .......could be fun getting the window out if you have got a seized mech as you need to lower it a bit to line up the bolts ith the rubber plugs in the doors that then allow you to remove the glass .

Did you check for continuity on those flexed door to body wires? The cores can break inside without it being visible externally.

 

Also check all the fuses are fully home, I found that one or two worked their way out over several years and stuff like rear windscreen wiper stopped working.

 

IIRC the drivers switch in mine went dicky after about 9 years. Could be persuaded to work on occasion though.

Edited 24 July, 20187 yr by xman

14 hours ago, xman said:

Did you check for continuity on those flexed door to body wires? The cores can break inside without it being visible externally.

 

Also check all the fuses are fully home, I found that one or two worked their way out over several years and stuff like rear windscreen wiper stopped working.

 

IIRC the drivers switch in mine went dicky after about 9 years. Could be persuaded to work on occasion though.

I've checked the fuses, so hopefully no problem there. Bent the contacts in opposite directions previously to make sure of a clean contact. 

 

I've not been confident enough about doing a continuity test before but this may be what I do next. It's basically testing if there is a fault or break in the wiring where it can't be seen right? Do you know where I should be putting the multimeter probes to do this? Contacts at the plug at the door hinge and the motor/control unit? 

 

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

On 23/07/2018 at 21:31, mikear82 said:

Thanks for the reply Fabia-format. I've tried a new switch unit and that made no difference. Heard this comfort module mentioned before, where is that located?

 

 

Mike

 

It's located above the driver's feet (near the relays and fuse box). Here under you find some pics of my former Fabia I, which was a LHD, so most things are just on the other side in comparison to your car.

 

Edited 25 July, 20187 yr by Fabia-format

If it's any help, my late 2006 vRS had a similar issue, apart from neither window would operate from the drivers door, only the passenger side one from the passenger side switch.

 

I replaced the drivers door motor as there is a PCB in it which effects both windows, there are a few versions of these motors and for the sake of getting it right first time and it actually lasting, I bought a new one from TPS, cost from memory was about £120. 

 

Easy enough to replace - lot easier than the window regulator and job done! Been fine since

Check corrosion on door plugs remove on a piller both sides together spray contact spray see how you get on 

Thanks for all the advice everyone, plenty to keep me going on my quest. Just out of interest anybody know about the driver side motor part numbers. The part on my vehicle is 6Y2959802 but I was wondering what the difference was between 6Q2959802? Aside from more connectors they look identical and the 6Y seems to be more expensive. Could I use the 6Q part or would that be a bad idea? 

On 26/07/2018 at 19:31, Damo152003 said:

Check corrosion on door plugs remove on a piller both sides together spray contact spray see how you get on 

Hey Damo, 

 

I've checked the plugs and there's definitely something wrong with the white one. Tried to take photos but almost impossible without taking the door off! You can see in the blurred photo green discolouration on some of the pins on the main body side. The plug from the door seems okay after removing the pins and checking them, although there is a little bit of green on the plastic molding. I can't get the black insert out to have a proper look. Any idea how I can get this cleaned up, or even if this plug has anything to do with the window not working? Will spraying contact spray on this be enough? When I plugged it back in it seemed to be the central locking kicking into life!

 

On a side note I've just sourced a used motor for £40. If that's not the issue then at least I've not forked out £100+ on a new one . 

 

Cheers

 

Mike

On 30/07/2018 at 16:26, mikear82 said:

Thanks for all the advice everyone, plenty to keep me going on my quest. Just out of interest anybody know about the driver side motor part numbers. The part on my vehicle is 6Y2959802 but I was wondering what the difference was between 6Q2959802? Aside from more connectors they look identical and the 6Y seems to be more expensive. Could I use the 6Q part or would that be a bad idea? 

 

Can you check if not only the motor numbers is different, but also the make of the motor? Few years ago someone was rebuilding and upgrading his Seat Leon Mk. I and ended up with 3 window motors of the same make, and one window motor from another brand. Both makes were OEM and also in same year of production, but the window with other motor make, kept giving problems (not fully opening, not fully closing etc.). It turned out, in one car you can only use one make to make it work allright.

 

On my own Fabia (2003) I replaced the window mechanism on the passengers door, and used the original motor. I don't know wat make it was, but it was still properly working when I sold the car (after 192.000 km/15 yrs.)

Well would you Adam and Eve it, the £40 replacement motor I sourced (was really lucky to get a part manufactured in 2014 for this price!) has fixed not only the driver side winditow but the funny goings on at the passenger side as well .  I can now feel the air rushing through my very short hair while I drive!!!! 

 

Because I'm nosey/curious I took apart the old motor to have a look.  I think there is a spot on the PCB that looks a bit melted so that's probably the culprit (see photo).  I tell you what, it's a bit of a beast, seems very well built for something doing the single job of putting a car window up and down.  God knows how many metres of copper wiring and some really good magnets which I might try and salvage.  Perhaps this is quite common in car window motors but it impressed me!  Can see why a new one would set you back £140 or whatever!

 

Anyway, thanks folks for your help, what a great community  

 

Mike

 

Sorry late reply glad your sorted. That’s corrosion on the plug removing the plug will removed some of it which would have been part your problem. 

Yo remove the plug you remove the trim inside the car and pull the plug from the inside. Just use a small flat blade screw driver and scrape it off carefully then clean up. Cheers