Car won't start? Turning key just makes clicking noise. I keep trying to turn key and then everything stuttered and flashed including lights, dash, the needles on start up. Also error is coming up for airbag / eps / other stuff. 

 

RAC is coming but said it could be a few hours. Is it the battery? Its a 12 reg skoda, any special instructions for jump starts?

 

If it is battery do I need to buy new one now? If not what else could be wrong? Car only passed MOT a couple of months a go. 

99% old battery - if original then it's 6 years old - make sure you buy correct one - if you have Start/Stop. 

Just now, jafo said:

99% old battery - if original then it's 6 years old - make sure you buy correct one - if you have Start/Stop. 

I am the 5th owner so I don't know, it does have full dealership service history but I don't think it would have new battery as I bought it when car was 4 years old. 

 

Car does not have start / stop. 

 

How much is a battery for this? Do I have to goto dealer for original part or a cheap one at Halford?

Can't help you with model/part number - you need to search forum - there was few posts recently. 

And I don't think cheap battery is a good idea. 

2 minutes ago, jafo said:

Can't help you with model/part number - you need to search forum - there was few posts recently. 

And I don't think cheap battery is a good idea. 

Maybe because its suddenly cold today? I didn't leave anything plugged in or whatever 

52 minutes ago, newskodadriver said:

RAC is coming but said it could be a few hours. Is it the battery? Its a 12 reg skoda, any special instructions for jump starts?

 

 

54 minutes ago, newskodadriver said:

If it is battery do I need to buy new one now? If not what else could be wrong?

 

Too many questions, too little time. If the RAC is already on its way, you don't need to worry about the jump start, they'll know what to do. And yes, it is the battery. It may be due to the lower temperature, it may be because something on the car wasn't turned off (malfunction, which as a result had battery drain). You can buy a cheap battery, and replace it within 2-3 years, or you can buy a better battery and replace it after 5-6 years. Also, depending on the winter conditions, cheap batteries might not be a good solution (if their cranking power value is low).

I'm happy with the Varta E44. (approx £80).

 

Drefaldwyn 

Edited 6 October, 20187 yr by drefaldwyn

2 hours ago, newskodadriver said:

Maybe because its suddenly cold today?

 

Cold helps kill batteries and certainly puts the boot into ones that are already dying. Skoda batteries that are over 4 years old are prime candidates for giving up the ghost.

 

As said above - all these symptoms point to needing a new battery. As drefaldwyn said, the Varta seems well regarded by owners. As you don't have stop/start, the replacement cost for a good quality battery wont be anything crazy.

I'm guessing this is already resolved, but 100% the battery is flat.

 

I can also vouch for the Varta E44 ( a Bosch S5 in disguise). A great battery for a good price.

8 hours ago, silver1011 said:

I'm guessing this is already resolved, but 100% the battery is flat.

 

I can also vouch for the Varta E44 ( a Bosch S5 in disguise). A great battery for a good price.

Hi yes, the RAC guy said it was battery, told me to basically get a new one as soon as possible. His battery test wouldn't even work until he connected slave battery to it. Haven't started car up today. Find out in a couple of hours. 

 

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e44/

 

Is this the one you recommend getting? 

 

Also, how easy is it to change a car battery myself to save on fitting fees? 

Good choice on the battery, it's about as good as you can get at that price point.

 

Fitting is definitely an easy DIY.

 

Remove the positive and negative terminals (don't let them touch each other, or anything metallic) and look down the side of the battery, there will be a small bracket clamping the battery to the tray. Once this is removed the battery will lift straight out. Replacement is a reversal of the removal.

 

Greasing the terminals divides opinion, so the choice is yours.

 

There is actually a video tutorial on the Tanya web page you linked that shows how to replace the battery too.

38 minutes ago, silver1011 said:

Good choice on the battery, it's about as good as you can get at that price point.

 

Fitting is definitely an easy DIY.

 

Remove the positive and negative terminals (don't let them touch each other, or anything metallic) and look down the side of the battery, there will be a small bracket clamping the battery to the tray. Once this is removed the battery will lift straight out. Replacement is a reversal of the removal.

 

Greasing the terminals divides opinion, so the choice is yours.

 

There is actually a video tutorial on the Tanya web page you linked that shows how to replace the battery too.

is there a code or something? a radio or VCDS code when you change the battery over?

13 minutes ago, newskodadriver said:

is there a code or something? a radio or VCDS code when you change the battery over?

No, everything is stored in the various control modules. You'll lose the clock setting and the trip meter.

K thanks. Because I don't know much about cars in general (this is only my 2nd car), I'd like to ask some general question on batteries instead of starting a new thread.

 

Everytime you start your engine, how much % of battery does it consume? So having the car on for about 5 minutes would recharge whatever was used? what's the minimum % of battery needed to start the car? assuming that you turned the key as far as you can to turn on the electrical systems, but without actual ignition, does that consume a lot of power? (assume no lights / aircon / radio / heater, literally just turning all the electrical system on so the dial goes up and down then dash lights up).

 

would be handy if cars had a % indicator like mobiles and gave warnings too??

20 minutes ago, newskodadriver said:

would be handy if cars had a % indicator like mobiles and gave warnings too??

 

Will the new battery need coding as it's a higher ah than the factory Banner one ?

If your car has a battery control module then YES

Not all cars without stop start have the module.

Only a scan will tell you.

25 minutes ago, superbdreams said:

If your car has a battery control module then YES

Not all cars without stop start have the module.

Only a scan will tell you.

I mentioned it for the OPs benefit having read some threads about it before, now I am interested to know too.

Where abouts on a VCDS scan do you locate this on a non stop-start car? 

Well as my car does not have it I can not tell you but it will be listed as a module amongst all the others on a full scan.

15 hours ago, vborovic said:

 

Be nice - we've all had to learn this stuff at some point!

 

15 hours ago, newskodadriver said:

K thanks. Because I don't know much about cars in general (this is only my 2nd car), I'd like to ask some general question on batteries instead of starting a new thread.

 

Everytime you start your engine, how much % of battery does it consume? So having the car on for about 5 minutes would recharge whatever was used? what's the minimum % of battery needed to start the car? assuming that you turned the key as far as you can to turn on the electrical systems, but without actual ignition, does that consume a lot of power? (assume no lights / aircon / radio / heater, literally just turning all the electrical system on so the dial goes up and down then dash lights up).

 

would be handy if cars had a % indicator like mobiles and gave warnings too??

It's difficult to give a definitive answer to that. There are a number of factors that influence how easy it is to start the car. A warm/hot engine is much easier to start because the oil will be warm and flows more easily, and it will fire up more easily, reducing the time needed to crank the engine. Ambient temperature is another factor: very cold weather reduces the performance of the battery (messes with the chemistry), so it will be harder for it to provide the power needed to start the engine. Hot weather is kinder to the battery.

 

Automotive batteries are specified by total capacity, and by Cold Cranking Amperage (the maximum current a battery can deliver when cold): There are specifications for these parameters if you want to read into it more: you will see different numbers quoted for different standards. The vehicle manufacturer will specify a battery based on the requirements of the engine they have designed. Sometimes they will under specify for other reasons (weight, cost, etc). Diesel engines need bigger batteries than petrol, large engines need bigger batteries than small engines.

 

The battery originally fitted to the Superb (including yours) has a capacity of 70 Ah and a CCA of 570 A. This means it can supply a current of 70 A for 1 h, or 35 A for 2 h, etc. Under cold start conditions, it can deliver up to 570 A to the starter motor: the battery would last no more than 7 minutes at this rating but it's highly unlikely you would ever hit this. The engine will usually fire within 1-2 s of cranking.

 

The experience of many here is that this battery is a bit undersized for the car. The Varta E44 you've just fitted is 77 Ah and 780 A CCA.

 

With no electrical consumers switched on, the car will use very little battery: only what's needed to power up the various control modules. Very few of us will ever switch on the ignition under these conditions though: generally the radio will be on, as well as the air-con system (if you have Climatronic and it's in Auto mode when you turn off the engine), because we're lazy and don't bother switching all these things off. If you have automatic headlights, these will switch on too once you turn on the ignition. All told they won't consume much power in the few seconds they're on before you start the engine. If you have a weak battery though, this could be a problem for you.

 

When running, the alternator takes over most of the work of supplying power to the vehicle's electrical systems so the battery gets a break. Generally you can expect that the battery will be recharged within 5-10 minutes. It will take longer in cold weather though.

 

When you turn the key to start the engine, there's a special relay fitted in the car called the load reduction relay which switches off everything electrical except what's needed in order to start the engine. This is there to help the battery while turning the engine over, but also to protect the other electrical systems from possible damage due to the high current flows needed to start the engine.

 

As for a battery monitor, some cars have them, others don't. In older times, when cars and batteries were less reliable, it was quite common to see a voltmeter on the dashboard as you couldn't rely enough on the battery to be in good condition to start the car. Even by the 1980s this was largely a thing of the past, except for sports cars where it was seen as A Good Thing To Have(TM). What replaced it was a red battery warning light*, which will come on at a certain voltage level. It's normal to see it lit after ignition on, but it should stay off when the engine is running: if it comes on while you're driving there's a problem somewhere.

 

*

27 minutes ago, chimaera said:

Be nice - we've all had to learn this stuff at some point!

 

Believe me that I'm biting the end of the desk to suppress what I want to type ...

42 minutes ago, chimaera said:

Be nice - we've all had to learn this stuff at some point!

 

It's difficult to give a definitive answer to that. There are a number of factors that influence how easy it is to start the car. A warm/hot engine is much easier to start because the oil will be warm and flows more easily, and it will fire up more easily, reducing the time needed to crank the engine. Ambient temperature is another factor: very cold weather reduces the performance of the battery (messes with the chemistry), so it will be harder for it to provide the power needed to start the engine. Hot weather is kinder to the battery.

 

Automotive batteries are specified by total capacity, and by Cold Cranking Amperage (the maximum current a battery can deliver when cold): There are specifications for these parameters if you want to read into it more: you will see different numbers quoted for different standards. The vehicle manufacturer will specify a battery based on the requirements of the engine they have designed. Sometimes they will under specify for other reasons (weight, cost, etc). Diesel engines need bigger batteries than petrol, large engines need bigger batteries than small engines.

 

The battery originally fitted to the Superb (including yours) has a capacity of 70 Ah and a CCA of 570 A. This means it can supply a current of 70 A for 1 h, or 35 A for 2 h, etc. Under cold start conditions, it can deliver up to 570 A to the starter motor: the battery would last no more than 7 minutes at this rating but it's highly unlikely you would ever hit this. The engine will usually fire within 1-2 s of cranking.

 

The experience of many here is that this battery is a bit undersized for the car. The Varta E44 you've just fitted is 77 Ah and 780 A CCA.

 

With no electrical consumers switched on, the car will use very little battery: only what's needed to power up the various control modules. Very few of us will ever switch on the ignition under these conditions though: generally the radio will be on, as well as the air-con system (if you have Climatronic and it's in Auto mode when you turn off the engine), because we're lazy and don't bother switching all these things off. If you have automatic headlights, these will switch on too once you turn on the ignition. All told they won't consume much power in the few seconds they're on before you start the engine. If you have a weak battery though, this could be a problem for you.

 

When running, the alternator takes over most of the work of supplying power to the vehicle's electrical systems so the battery gets a break. Generally you can expect that the battery will be recharged within 5-10 minutes. It will take longer in cold weather though.

 

When you turn the key to start the engine, there's a special relay fitted in the car called the load reduction relay which switches off everything electrical except what's needed in order to start the engine. This is there to help the battery while turning the engine over, but also to protect the other electrical systems from possible damage due to the high current flows needed to start the engine.

 

As for a battery monitor, some cars have them, others don't. In older times, when cars and batteries were less reliable, it was quite common to see a voltmeter on the dashboard as you couldn't rely enough on the battery to be in good condition to start the car. Even by the 1980s this was largely a thing of the past, except for sports cars where it was seen as A Good Thing To Have(TM). What replaced it was a red battery warning light*, which will come on at a certain voltage level. It's normal to see it lit after ignition on, but it should stay off when the engine is running: if it comes on while you're driving there's a problem somewhere.

 

*

Hey that was a really cool reply thanks so much for typing that out. 

 

Only 1 question remains, it wasn't so much the few seconds of turning on all the control modules / electrical systems before ignition, but turning it on and leaving it on so MFD is lit. Does that take much energy assuming all lights / radio / aircon / heater etc are switched off? I know what I'm plugging into the car will consume how much power, but not the car itself. I mean does it take 1 amp per hour so you can leave it on for 35 hours and the battery will still have 50% (assuming nothing external wired in) ?

4 minutes ago, newskodadriver said:

Hey that was a really cool reply thanks so much for typing that out. 

 

Only 1 question remains, it wasn't so much the few seconds of turning on all the control modules / electrical systems before ignition, but turning it on and leaving it on so MFD is lit. Does that take much energy assuming all lights / radio / aircon / heater etc are switched off? I know what I'm plugging into the car will consume how much power, but not the car itself. I mean does it take 1 amp per hour so you can leave it on for 35 hours and the battery will still have 50% (assuming nothing external wired in) ?

 

It's impossible to give a good answer as it'll completely depend on what modules and options are fitted to your car. Some modules may also enter power saving/sleep modes after some length of time to save power too.

 

The only real way to tell is to use an ammeter  and measure it.

3 minutes ago, newskodadriver said:

Hey that was a really cool reply thanks so much for typing that out. 

 

Only 1 question remains, it wasn't so much the few seconds of turning on all the control modules / electrical systems before ignition, but turning it on and leaving it on so MFD is lit. Does that take much energy assuming all lights / radio / aircon / heater etc are switched off? I know what I'm plugging into the car will consume how much power, but not the car itself. I mean does it take 1 amp per hour so you can leave it on for 35 hours and the battery will still have 50% (assuming nothing external wired in) ?

It's a hard question to answer. There are current draw tables published somewhere for the different equipment fitted for use in fault finding, but I don't have them to hand, which might shed a little light on the matter. There are two major variables in this situation: what equipment is fitted to your vehicle, and is all of it functioning correctly. One huge pain in the arse when it comes to maintenance on modern vehicles is phantom power draws, maybe because some module hasn't fully shut down, or there's a bad earth, or wires have frayed and short-circuited something. IIRC an Elegance spec Superb 2 has about 20 control modules all doing different things and responding to different events in the vehicle's systems.

 

If you look at a mobile phone as a comparison, the rate of battery consumption will vary widely depending on what you're doing. I always find my battery life is better during the week because the phone sits on my desk at work doing nothing for much of the day, whereas at weekends, I'm using it a lot more for web browsing,  games, etc. Do you worry about what each app or function on your phone is doing to the battery all the time or just keep an eye on it and charge when it needs it?

In the car, the charging function is automatic and will kick in if the battery voltage is low enough to need it or there's a lot of demand.
 

The general assumption/advice in this situation is if you have a good battery and it's not going flat every day there's nothing to worry about.

If your car has start/stop, it will have a current sensor fitted on the negative lead terminal end (photo cropped so can't see) and a big metal tab at the ground point for the negative lead which is used for charging.

 

In that case the ecu keeps track of SOC state of charge and HOC heath of charge. The battery charge status used to be displayed in the infotainment and MFD on some models but was later removed with a software update as many people do not understand that with stop/start and energy recovery (known as micro hybrid), SOC is rarely 100% but usually 70% and is perfectly normal.

 

If your car has start/stop then the battery is either an AGM or EFB battery, and must be replaced with a battery of the same type and not a standard battery. The 2d bar code label seen on the top of the battery contains important information about battery coding. When the battery is changed, this coding must be entered into the cars system using dealer diagnostics, VCDS or other tool to avoid problems and very short battery life.

 

(The above only applies if your car is fitted with stop/start)

 

NB: it's often forgotten that you still need plenty of charge to start a car and  a car battery below about 30% might not manage.

 

Batteries (AGM excepted) operated below 50% SOC for a significant time will have a short life due to irreversible sulphation amongst other things.