Sure, we all want lots of power. But for me, to upgrade my car (Rapid) to match the same amount of power of the larger VAG cars (Jetta / Golf / Octavia) would be more than enough because the other goal of mine is to do so without making maintenance for the vehicle too complicated (such as attempting to retrofit an EA888 engine). I want to be able to service my car with stock parts, just borrowed from other models.

 

According to your input, in order to hit around 150 HP of power, I have three options:

 

1) Keep the CJZD 1.2 engine, and work from there.

 

2) Upgrade to the CZCA/B 1.4 125 HP block, and work from there.

 

3) Swap everything for a CZDA/B 1.4 150 HP version.

 

Option 1: Keeping the existing engine

 

From what others report, it seems possible to just upgrade the turbo and do a custom map, but it's complicated at the moment, because there is some incompatibility between the readily available turbo units and the amount of displacement provided by the engine. Summarized, they simply doesn't blow enough pressure at low RPMs to spin up the turbine, and then supplies way too much pressure at higher RPMs.

A variable geometry turbo would probably solve this issue, and the first idea that comes to mind is to transplant the turbo from the new 1.5 TSI. However, there i still a mismatch of displacement (a larger one, in fact) and proper operation is not warranted. However, there is an alternative. The standard turbo design is modular and it seems like there is no necessity to alter either the turbine cartridge or the exhaust side of the casing. It should suffice, at least in theory, to built a custom intake casing with the variable flaps. Since this doesn't spin like the turbine, it doesn't require the same amount of accuracy, and it doesn't use exotic materials such as inconel. Therefore, it should be possible to build such a thing in a standard mechanical shop.

 

Conclusion: the least expensive path, but complicated due to reliance on custom parts, so it kind of defeats the goal of keeping things stock.

 

Option 2: Upgrade to the 1.4 125HP bloc and work from there

 

What happens if you bolt a large standard turbo into a CZC? I guess you won't experience the low RPM lack of power others have reported, yet boost would be sustained longer than with the medium standard turbo, for some extra power? The way I see, this is the path to take if you want to avoid messing with the electronics, since you don't have to figure out how to handle extra features of the 150HP version with the existing ECU. It should require a custom map, though.

 

Conclusion: It is way more expensive and complicated to swap the entire bloc, and also more wasteful. What do you do with the old bloc? Results, however, are kind of warranted with this option and I can see why @TheFozzy opted for this.

 

Option 3: Swap everything for the 1.4 150HP

 

With this option you're essentially copying the entire drive train of a different car. Issues are unlikely, since all the parts are already meant to work that way. But this is the most expensive option of all.

 

Will an ECU from the 1.4 150HP engine play well with the rest of the electronics of the car? Who knows.

 

General stuff:

 

Can features like the regulated oil pump or the variable exhaust timing be retrofitted into the 1.2? Not that it's too important to do so, but it would be nice to explore that possibility, because I'm pretty sure it would have an overall positive effect on the engine (if it becomes more efficient, it has to burn less fuel to produce the same amount of power, and that not only increases your mileage, but also reduces the wear and the possibility of cooling issues).

 

I've noticed that CZC (125HP) has a higher compression ratio than the CZD (150HP). And both CJZ (110HP) and CZC engines use the same type of Lamba probes, but the CZD user a different type. Are there other differences that I'm missing?

 

P. S. I'm checking data from here: https://www.upownersclub.co.uk/attachments/ssp-511_the_new_ea211_petrol_engine_family-pdf.7106/

2 hours ago, m1kemex said:

 

 

3) Swap everything for a CZDA/B 1.4 150 HP version.

 

 

 

 

Or use a 140PS 1.4lt (CHPA)....the only difference is the software...& the 140PS version easily makes 150PS from the factory without any modification.

 

The 150PS 1.4lt is more commonly available with the complex "ACT" mechanisms. (Active cylinder Management, auto cylinder shut off) which under certain conditions disengages sections of the camshafts of 2 cylinders to be able to run on 2 cylinders only. This 1.4lt 150PS ACT engine is coded as CPTA.

 

If you use the 140/150PS engine you will need to fit the MQ250 gearbox as its what they come with from the factory..or fit a much stronger MQ350...

 

Quote on the 140/150PS engines from the VAG self study guides:-

"In the 1.4 l 103 kW TSI engine, which is subject to a
higher load, this is, a forged steel crankshaft. It
features five bearings, four counterweights and a
main bearing and conrod bearing diameter of
48 mm. To reduce the weight even further, the conrod
journals are hollow-bored. Together, these measures
reduce the inside forces on the crankshaft and
therefore the load on the main bearings."

 

 

All the 4cylinder EA211 engines have stepless adjustment upto 50deg of crank angle on the inlet camshaft...however the 140/150PS versions also have stepless adjustment upto 40deg of crank angle on the exhaust camshaft.

Hello, I have a 1.2tsi spaceback to which I put a 1.4tsi 150hp turbo, apr coils, downpipe, revo stage 1 reprogramming, intake forge motorsport and I have another car compared to the same stock.

On 15/02/2023 at 05:57, pedro1987 said:

Hello, I have a 1.2tsi spaceback to which I put a 1.4tsi 150hp turbo, apr coils, downpipe, revo stage 1 reprogramming, intake forge motorsport and I have another car compared to the same stock.

 

That's nice and encouraging. Care to share more details?

 

What engine did you have? Which engine did you install? Where did you get it? How much did it cost?

 

Did you change the transmission too?

 

What issues did you have to overcome?

Edited 17 February, 20233 yr by m1kemex

Can a moderator please delete my last post? I misread it. I thought Pedro had swapped te entire engine...

On 15/02/2023 at 01:01, m1kemex said:

A variable geometry turbo would probably solve this issue, and the first idea that comes to mind is to transplant the turbo from the new 1.5 TSI. However, there i still a mismatch of displacement (a larger one, in fact) and proper operation is not warranted. However, there is an alternative. The standard turbo design is modular and it seems like there is no necessity to alter either the turbine cartridge or the exhaust side of the casing. It should suffice, at least in theory, to built a custom intake casing with the variable flaps. Since this doesn't spin like the turbine, it doesn't require the same amount of accuracy, and it doesn't use exotic materials such as inconel. Therefore, it should be possible to build such a thing in a standard mechanical shop.

 

Just to give you guys an idea of what I'm talking about:

On 15/02/2023 at 12:57, pedro1987 said:

Hello, I have a 1.2tsi spaceback to which I put a 1.4tsi 150hp turbo, apr coils, downpipe, revo stage 1 reprogramming, intake forge motorsport and I have another car compared to the same stock.

That is a nice intake! I thought they didn’t actually make this for the Fabia…as far as the bolts you used I guess that is right😂… How doe the APR coils feel ?

 

I finally got my car taken care off, I got the downpipe with a 200cell Cat the Forge intake and the bigger 1.4turbo..which resulted in just over 182hp and 277Nm. I am so happy with this, it just has become this fun sleeper car with just enough power to put a smile on your face. Although I wished there was a intercooler kit to keep it from heatsoaking in this hot conditions…but ah well can’t complain for that small engine. Ohw also I wished someone would have warned me that it would turn into Darth Vader with that intake😂 that will turn the heads of most people…

Hello,

I have 1.4 large turbo installed on 1.2tsi Skoda Rapid,downpipe without cat,and remap.But its only 151Hp and 211Nm.Boost pressure is set only to 1,08bar.If the value is higher,in higher rpm its overboostet and power going down.

 

Please,can you give me advise,if its problem standard MAP senzor,or what can do this complications?

 

Many thanks

22 minutes ago, RapidSK said:

Hello,

I have 1.4 large turbo installed on 1.2tsi Skoda Rapid,downpipe without cat,and remap.But its only 151Hp and 211Nm.Boost pressure is set only to 1,08bar.If the value is higher,in higher rpm its overboostet and power going down.

 

Please,can you give me advise,if its problem standard MAP senzor,or what can do this complications?

 

Many thanks

You need it properly custom tuning to increase the boost, the 1.4 turbos can handle 1.5 bar boost and hold that pretty steady up to around 5000rpm on the 1.2's, you should be able to reach 180bhp with a custom tune

Thank you for reply. I have read all this topic more times,but I still have some questions.

Whats causes overboost problem?

Its necessarry change MAP senzor?

What does it mean custom tune?

 

Thank you again

 

 

43 minutes ago, RapidSK said:

Thank you for reply. I have read all this topic more times,but I still have some questions.

Whats causes overboost problem?

Its necessarry change MAP senzor?

What does it mean custom tune?

 

Thank you again

 

 

Overboost means the turbo is exceeding what the ecu is requesting, perhaps the wastegate is sticking a bit.

 

You don't need to change the map sensor.

 

Custom tune would be a dyno tune for example, where they tune the car specially for upgrades you have done like turbo.

So,I took turbo out and let to control it to profesional company,repairing turbos.

Today I became result,that my 1.4turbo is destroyed and its no possible to repair it and set up the wastegate actuator,its no possible to do it by this types of turbos,generally EA211.

 

Now,I have to buy new one,and my question is,if it is good choice to buy RTMG 1.4Hybrid Turbo 220.If do you have some experiences with this

 

Many thanks and hope,that my experience can help to other one

On 20/06/2023 at 19:30, Andre_db87 said:

That is a nice intake! I thought they didn’t actually make this for the Fabia…as far as the bolts you used I guess that is right😂… How doe the APR coils feel ?

 

I finally got my car taken care off, I got the downpipe with a 200cell Cat the Forge intake and the bigger 1.4turbo..which resulted in just over 182hp and 277Nm. I am so happy with this, it just has become this fun sleeper car with just enough power to put a smile on your face. Although I wished there was a intercooler kit to keep it from heatsoaking in this hot conditions…but ah well can’t complain for that small engine. Ohw also I wished someone would have warned me that it would turn into Darth Vader with that intake😂 that will turn the heads of most people…

Wow what a result! I am considering this atm as my current stock turbo has a bit of play in the shaft and slightly worried about it blowing up haha. I am also running a forge Intake W/ a silicon turbo 90 deg pipe as well and yes very Darth Vader and a lovely lift of noise (probs what has killed my turbo as these don't have a bov) - When I just had the intake (no turbo 90 and no catback) Mine was mapped to 147hp and 260nm of tq (rolling road - Revo tune - Runs good) I am surprised it doesn't put out that much more tq with the bigger turbo. But I bet that power increase at the top end is noticeable! And with longer lag I am assuming?

 

Any issues with it running thus far?

 

Is that with stock injectors and fuel pump? I have read before of people putting in a better fuel pump and the 1.4 tsi Injectors with the big turbo to get it to 200hp ish. 

 

Also if you haven't already Definity get some better brakes! I run EBC Yellowstuff Pads W/ Brembo drilled rotors (front only) They are a bit meh when super cold but they can take 3 or so fast stops from 100+ Before really getting hot and honestly I think its my brake fluid that is the limiting power as the pedal goes really stiff but If I push hard enough it does stop (very aggressively) 
 

Thank you for any info and hope you enjoy your little pocket rocket! 

28 minutes ago, Daddy_Dewado said:

Wow what a result! I am considering this atm as my current stock turbo has a bit of play in the shaft and slightly worried about it blowing up haha. I am also running a forge Intake W/ a silicon turbo 90 deg pipe as well and yes very Darth Vader and a lovely lift of noise (probs what has killed my turbo as these don't have a bov) - When I just had the intake (no turbo 90 and no catback) Mine was mapped to 147hp and 260nm of tq (rolling road - Revo tune - Runs good) I am surprised it doesn't put out that much more tq with the bigger turbo. But I bet that power increase at the top end is noticeable! And with longer lag I am assuming?

 

Any issues with it running thus far?

 

Is that with stock injectors and fuel pump? I have read before of people putting in a better fuel pump and the 1.4 tsi Injectors with the big turbo to get it to 200hp ish. 

 

Also if you haven't already Definity get some better brakes! I run EBC Yellowstuff Pads W/ Brembo drilled rotors (front only) They are a bit meh when super cold but they can take 3 or so fast stops from 100+ Before really getting hot and honestly I think its my brake fluid that is the limiting power as the pedal goes really stiff but If I push hard enough it does stop (very aggressively) 
 

Thank you for any info and hope you enjoy your little pocket rocket! 

Should of done this prior but just gone and read through all the 2021 - current thread that I missed prior - Think I am just going to rebuild Mine as a stock turbo - JBS looks like a amazing option but it's now 2.4k (With map) and it will still want a sport cat. 200hp would be amazing and I am sure it pulls like a rocket but until I have even more money to throw at this car just going to leave it with the modest 147. More than enough to get me in trouble! Got 135 out of it so not too shabby! 

Hi, can someone tell me if 04E 145 715F is going to fit?

Hello,I am still looking for some tuners,who can succesfully tune hybrid turbo RTMG 240. My parameters now are 182ps and 250Nm on 1.4 engine,but turbo run only on 1bar.If its more,over 5000rpm power fall down.

Thank you

Bought an Octavia 3 1.2 TSI with 190.000km on the odo and oil consumption of 1L every 4.000km. I had it tuned to stage one, but this barely improved the power. Furthermore, there was a lot of detonation. My tuner changed the stage one map to fix these issues but the power never came. His conclusion was that the intake tract was completely gunked up. The oil consumption got worse over time untill it hit 1L every 1200km this summer.

I contacted Biggelaar Motorservice in Nuenen (The Netherlands) to fix my oil consumption (https://www.biggelaar-service.nl/). He also installed a new hybrid turbocharger which I bought through my tuner, Rica Engineering Wateringen (https://rica.nl/nl/). When Biggelaar opened up the motor the damage was obvious. A completely gunked up intake tract, 8 burned up exhaust valves, 3 bent connecting rods and a lot of carbon deposits.

Biggelaar replaced the exhaust valves for 8 new ones, installed 4 new and modified pistons with upgraded oil scrape rings and replaced the bent connecting rods for new ones. Unfortunately we couldn't find any upgraded connecting rods for the 1.2 TSI.

He also installed a hybrid turbocharger which I brought along. This turbocharger was purchased through my tuner Rica Engineering.

After doing a good 1000km (easy going, letting the new rings settle etc. etc.) I went back to the tuner to get the hybrid turbo mapped. The first run showed that the stage 1 map with the hybrid turbo only delivered 124hp. This is due to the changes that my tuner made to the stage 1 map when we found out that my car was detonating.

After a lot of back and forth the tuner finally got the lambda values where he wanted them. He then started feeding in the power. As you can see on the dynograph below (the final result) the turbo shoots up to 1.1 / 1.15 bar as quickly as possible at 2200 rpm. After that, the turbo pressure build-up is slowed, to reach a maximum of +/- 1.4/1.5 bar at 3200 rpm. This slower pressure build-up (hopefully) prevents the connecting rods from bending again. 'The internet' says these connecting rods can handle 280nm, my tuner indicated that he could achieve that if we let the torque hit full force at 2200-2400 rpm. Because of my previous experience with these 1.2 connecting rods I didn't want to push it, so my tuner kept max torque below 260nm and spread the torque out over a greater area.

That doesn't take away from the fact that the car now drives really nicely, these power figures work very well for this 1150kg car.

Edited 9 October, 20259 Oct by RR-Vliet

Good evening, I am new to your group and new to improvements. I read your articles and I am really happy to have become a member of such a group!! I have a seat ibiza cjzd 1.2 110hp 2017. I have made a downpipe by removing the pre-catalyst. I have upgraded with a ramair intake and as for the engine cooling, I have installed an avt. I am looking to upgrade the turbo. I read about the options

04E 145 721 B

04E 145 721 F

04E 145 704 C

04E 145 704 P

I have found 04E 145 704 P in very good condition but I also read that a member installed 04E 145 722 G no problem. what are your opinions?

1 hour ago, Stavrosibiza said:

Good evening, I am new to your group and new to improvements. I read your articles and I am really happy to have become a member of such a group!! I have a seat ibiza cjzd 1.2 110hp 2017. I have made a downpipe by removing the pre-catalyst. I have upgraded with a ramair intake and as for the engine cooling, I have installed an avt. I am looking to upgrade the turbo. I read about the options

04E 145 721 B

04E 145 721 F

04E 145 704 C

04E 145 704 P

I have found 04E 145 704 P in very good condition but I also read that a member installed 04E 145 722 G no problem. what are your opinions?

I am now running a hybrid turbo on my new engine build which is using the same actuator style as the 722G model. It works without issue, and if anything, boost control is actually smoother with less overshoot but that may be due to the much larger turbo.

My engine also gained an extra 300cc since i last posted 👀

Thank you for your answer.I finally decided to pull the trigger on an 04E 145 704 P unit as I found one in mint condition and managed to get a great deal on it.I opted for this model to have peace of mind regarding 100% compatibility with my ECU and actuator.

I hope I made the right call and won't regret not going for the 04E 145 722 G (150hp version). Given my current setup (AVT radiator, downpipe pre cat delete) do you think the 704P is the most balanced choice for a reliable Stage 3 or did I leave too much power on the table?

Hello from germany,

adding a datapoint for the people planning to go the hybrid route. I started from the original 1.2 TSI turbocharger, OEM number 04E145713Q, the CYVB engine hardware is stock, 205 kkm.

I was heavily inspired by the post from RR-Vliet (October 2025). I decided to directly contact the company who modified RR-Vliets turbo: Perun Turbo in poland (ul. Kwietniowa 8, 05-090 Wypędy). Very pleasant experience, sent my turbo via mail from Germany, they modified it and sent it back. Took about one month from first contact to turbo in my hands and about 560 Euro including shipping. Axial and radial bushings were replaced, they even sent the old parts and balancing protocol.

Main reasons for me to favour the hybrid turbo over a stock 1.4 TSI turbo: The turbine housing, wastegate diameter and actuator stays stock -> The smaller A/R compared to 1.4 TSI turbine casings retains exhaust gas velocity and makes boost control easier from a mapping point of view (dutycycle, exhaust mass flow tables, etc.).

Technical details:

Compressor wheel

	Stock	Upgraded turbo
Wheel type	6+6 Splitter	8 Full blade
Inducer diameter	27 mm	36 mm
Exducer diameter	36 mm	47 mm

The compressor wheel is from a Kia Stinger 3.3TT (3.2 V6 twinturbo, designed for 1.6 L of displacement for each turbo), type Honeywell resp. Garrett 844076-8.

 

Turbine wheel

	Stock	Upgraded turbo
Wheel type	10 Blade, radial flow	8 Blade, mixed flow
Inducer diameter	31 mm	39.2 mm
Exducer diameter	27 mm	27 mm

The turbine wheel is from a VAG 1.4 TSI 140/150 hp model.

 

The turbocharger now carries the designation “M-15495” in case anyone wants a similar mod from Perun Turbo. Based on flow estimations and wheel rpm, the new turbo is good for about 1.6 bar - 1.7 bar.

However, there are some key differences to the “M-14042” model from RR-Vliet:

·       8 Blade turbine instead of 11 Blade turbine: Better exhaust flow due to mixed flow turbine with less turbine blades (same blade angle), does not choke easily at high rpm

·       Full blade compressor wheel, which helps to close the large turbo lag compared to a splitter blade design. In terms of compressor wheel upgrades, the step from 36 mm to 47 mm is huge - the compressor wheel is now larger than a OEM IHI IS12 turbo used in VAG 1.8 TSI engines. This induces tons of lag due to the polar moment of inertia.

 

Some word about the various turbine sizes and designs used in the VAG EA211 1.2 and 1.4 turbos, this helps to easily identify them in e.g. online listings and such:

·       1.2 TSI (90/105/110 HP): 10 Blade turbine wheel, radial flow

·       1.4 TSI 122 HP: 11 Blade turbine wheel, radial flow

·       1.4 TSI 140/150 HP: 8 Blade turbine wheel, mixed flow

 

With the help of a friend, we fitted the turbo in ca. 2 h of time. Some tips and OEM part numbers:

·       Gasket set: 04E253039D

·       Oil return line (generally can be used again but replace gaskets, included in 04E253039D): 04E145735C

·       Oil feed line (absolutely replace): 04E145140AS (buy the AS-variant, this one keeps the oil line further away from hot engine parts compared to previous revisions)

·       Clean the exhaust port on the block with some fine grit sanding paper so the metal gasket has a clean surface to sit on

·       Remove two bolts on the catalytic converter so it can be pushed to the side and makes mounting the exhaust clamp much easier

·       Even when you drain the oil, there will still be about 100 ml in the feed and return line. Be prepared to clean the engine block with some brake cleaner afterwards as it makes quite some mess. Top off the coolant with some G13 afterwards.

·       Better use a pit or lift, your back will thank you

·       Fill the oil port with fresh oil or better some MoS₂ turbo additive and spin the compressor wheel a few times, saves the radial bushings upon “dry” startup

We did not calibrate the wastegate actuator via VCDS and the engine seemed fine without, no error codes or limp mode. This probably only works if the turbo wg is properly adjusted beforehand.

Some impressions from the first drive:

·       Typical “big turbo setup”-feeling: Engine feels n/a below 2800 rpm, above the turbo pulls like a freight train all the way to the redline. As a side effect, this helped me to safe fuel on my commute as there is barely any time spent on boost.

·       Driving off boost is enhanced to better exhaust flow with increased throttle response

·       IAT is lower, as the compressor is now much more efficiently, as a side note: The wg is pushed open further compared to stock, lowering EMAP and EGT.

·       Remap is planned in 1 month, but as RR-Vliet already mentioned: Be careful, the big compressor wheel saves you from a quick boost buildup, but take it slow and cap boost pressure below 3 krpm. Otherwise, the turbo surges anyway as the small 1.2 cannot ingest the air mass (Surge line of this hybrid is at ca. 6-7 lb/min in efficiency island), the risk of LSPI increases exponentially and the conrods may see some sunshine. There are currently no x or h-shaft conrods for this engine ☹

Stay safe

That's wonderful to read! Please keep us updated. I installed a downpipe 4 weeks ago, and the dead feeling before the turbo kicks in is much less, driveability has improved greatly. My turbo now starts chugging at 2200rpm and is whistling by 2500rpm. Proper power is available from 2800-3000rpm, for when you want to overtake on a small country road.

I am going back to the tuner next week. I will update this topic with new dynograph. I am going to discuss custom conrods as there are no conrods available for the 1.2. I want to seeehat the next restriction will be when running custom conrods. Not sure if it's worth it, we'll see.

Also thinking about shorter gears, my mq200 manual has economy gears which means 5th and 6th, and to a lesser extent 4th gear suck. 3rd gear is already 160kmh...

Oh, and one more question. How much ho can this turbo flow? Mine is advertised as a 230hp turbo. Really curious what the differences in spool time and top power between our turbo's are.

Dear RR-Vliet,

thank you for the quick reply and update, without your inital post, this project would not have happened!

Swapping to a shorter gearset is a very good idea and the long 5th and 6th gears also bother me. I am very excited about your upcoming dyno results - if you encounter any hardware specific problems, please share them here so others (like me :) ) can use them for their remapping. I will also definitely share my results once the car is remapped again around start of august.

A downpipe is also next on my to do list, but the ege german legal ones are like 1600 Euros...if you have a cheaper source, please let us know.

To your 230 hp question:

Assuming a volumetric effiency of 0.9 and around 50 mbar pressure loss through throttle&intercooler, the turbo needs to support a MAF of 23 to 25 lb/min to achieve 230 hp. Also, we would need to push around 2.1 bar relative to achieve this target.

From the compressor wheel side of things, the kia stinger 3.3TT is known to achieve 1.75 bar remapped, however the engine bank swallows much more air with 1.6 L per bank. The closest turbo i could find in terms of spec is the Garrett G25-550 48mm, based on the compressor map, it supports a pressure ratio of ~3.5 at 24 lb/min with similar full blade design -> Doable

From the turbine wheel side of things, i doubt we can push 25-26 lb/min (air+fuel) of exhaust mass flow through the tiny turbine (no matter 8 or 11 blade), EGT and EMAP will be sky high. The Garrett G25-550 with the lowest A/R housing (0.49) can flow a max of 16 lb/min at our target pressure ratio of 3.1 -> Doubt

Realistically - purely based on my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt - the turbo can support around 190-200 hp. Probably the following changes are necessary to increase that value:

-Higher A/R turbine housing with clipped or further enlarged turbine

-Better HPFP with 1.4 150 hp injectors

-Upgraded conrods, to achieve 230 hp at the flywheel at lets say 7 krpm, the engine needs to put out 230 NM. At 4 krpm, over 400 NM!

-Downpipe to lower EMAP (as you already did)

-Lower compression, 10.5 is reaaaally high for 2.1 bar relative boost

You can log wg dutycycle (87 % is basically fully open, 100-140% is only applied to force it shut during low rpm acceleration), EGT and IAT to see if there is room left for more power. I will also do that once the remap is complete and share the data logs here.

Stay safe

This is wonderfull to read! I am so happy that my build inspired someone else to do something silly with this puny 1.2 engine.

I lack the theoretical knowledge to calculate how a turbo should perform to be able to sustain 230hp, I just went for the marketing number. Seems that this number might have been too positive. I am hoping to attain 200-205hp after the tune, which is much more in line with your calculations and probably also the max for this turbo. This means that custom conrods might not be worth it, but I am going to inquire nonetheless.

I bought a 200 cell kat from UPP: https://www.upgradeperformanceparts.com/product/downpipe-golf-7-1-2-tsi/. This cat did not throw any CEL codes even before tuning, and is APK (Dutch TUV) compliant when warm. The quality, fit and finish are very good, I am more than happy.

This, together with a mid-pipe delete, has completed the exhaust side. It is combined with a K&N Filter, MST Intake elbow and some piping on the intake side.

Unfortunately my gearbox did not like the extra power, this was from before the downpipe. My driveshaft bearings came loose, and the gearbox started leaking oil. I replaced the gearbox with an overhauld MYF MQ200, I hope it will last longer than the previous one.

And that is not all, my stock clutch (with 230kkm on the clock) also gave out. Shifts were imprecise, revs sometimes flared and launching was impossible. I replaced it with an upgraded Sachs organic clutch disk and upgraded pressure plate. Not cheap, but it has fixed all my problems: https://www.zweimassenschwungrad.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_category_id=4010&virtuemart_product_id=7204&Itemid=165

And because the car was much faster than its suspension could take, I also upgraded the front end with poly bushes, fitted a new gearbox mount to improve shift feel, fitted Bilstein B6 with Eibach springs, braided brake lines, chassis stiffening bars and the list goes on and on. I am not going to post any pictures of that, as this is an engine tuning topic.

For the future: I did log my intake temps last week in England in the mountains on hot days. When going full throttle 3k rpm+ up the mountain, air temp before the IC was 110+, while air temp after IC remained ambient +20, between 40 degrees and 50 degrees. Very happy with that. The engine sometimes pulled 3 degrees of timing from a cylinder to protect it, but immediatly recovered back after the knock was contained. I also logged my fuel pump, which never went over 55-58%. EGT before catalyst peaked at 640-670 degrees after which it dropped while pulling, which made me very happy. I think you should add another +150 degrees to get the actual exhaust temp (as this was just before catalyst) but I do feel safe. Below a screenshot of one of the logs. I did NOT log my wastegate duty cycle, I will do that soon.

I just changed the oil and installed 4 new spark plugs for my tuning session next week. As I said, I am going to discuss the merits of conrods and I am going to share my dyno results and my tuners opinion. If you have ANY questions, need help with ordering the downpipe from this Dutch company, need more logs, need special info .. Whatever, don't hesitate to post! I am very willing to help, and I am looking forward to your experiences and possible improvements for this platform! I am tuning for the hobby, and I love that someone else shares the same passion.